U Joint Flange Removal
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 548
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From: NC
I've gotten to a point that I feel overly paranoid at. I always just get worried about messing something up when I'm doing a certain type of job for the first time.
Using the seal puller, the seal popped out rather easily, got that replaced and am now trying to put the yolk back on. It's a tight fit and wont push by hand. Using g a block of wood, I've got it on enough that a few threads are exposed on the pinion.
Should I keep beating it with a block of wood? Or should I attempt to use the nut to finish seating it? Wasnt sure if beating it may cause issues. If using the nut to finish seating it is the way to go, should I use a pipe wrench to hold the yolk and hand ratchet or use an air ratchet to help seat it?
Sorry for the all the crazy questions, first time jobs always throw me off and make me question myself too much. Then when I'm finished, it's always, "wow that was easy".
Using the seal puller, the seal popped out rather easily, got that replaced and am now trying to put the yolk back on. It's a tight fit and wont push by hand. Using g a block of wood, I've got it on enough that a few threads are exposed on the pinion.
Should I keep beating it with a block of wood? Or should I attempt to use the nut to finish seating it? Wasnt sure if beating it may cause issues. If using the nut to finish seating it is the way to go, should I use a pipe wrench to hold the yolk and hand ratchet or use an air ratchet to help seat it?
Sorry for the all the crazy questions, first time jobs always throw me off and make me question myself too much. Then when I'm finished, it's always, "wow that was easy".
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 760
Likes: 35
From: Mid-South Missouri
Did you clean/scrub all the splines? They were/are probably rusty. If not, remove and clean.
And yes a block of wood to seat it after its clean. I'd be afraid to use the nut to pull it on unless you have a good portion of the nut threaded on, say 2/3 rd's. Lube the threads.
Strip the shaft threads and it's all over with.
And yes a block of wood to seat it after its clean. I'd be afraid to use the nut to pull it on unless you have a good portion of the nut threaded on, say 2/3 rd's. Lube the threads.
Strip the shaft threads and it's all over with.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,057
Likes: 1,612
From: Seattle
78ShortBed has some good thoughts. Just to show what a tool might look like in case it gives any ideas this is the
T53T-4851-B - Axle Flange Replacer
The far end of the tool is internally threaded and thin walled enough to pass through the yoke and grab the pinion threads. Then goes on the washer (I've got it flipped to the inside so it doesn't get lost), spacer and nut. As you hold the near tip with a wrench and tighten the nut it pulls the yoke on using the spacer and washer.
Chad
T53T-4851-B - Axle Flange Replacer
The far end of the tool is internally threaded and thin walled enough to pass through the yoke and grab the pinion threads. Then goes on the washer (I've got it flipped to the inside so it doesn't get lost), spacer and nut. As you hold the near tip with a wrench and tighten the nut it pulls the yoke on using the spacer and washer.
Chad
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Elder User
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From: NC
Thanks to both of you. Surprisingly, they werent rusted at all, or even really dirty for that matter. It was clean enough to where all I used was a shop towel to wipe the dust off. Only thing dirty on the inside was the molasses that poured out of it once I pulled the yolk and seal.
The main reason I questioned the beating it back on part was due to others saying not to use the slide hammer to pull it out due to possible bearing damage. Didnt knownif it would also be an issue in the reverse.
The main reason I questioned the beating it back on part was due to others saying not to use the slide hammer to pull it out due to possible bearing damage. Didnt knownif it would also be an issue in the reverse.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 760
Likes: 35
From: Mid-South Missouri
Well. You don't have an install tool, and many don't. I never had that one. So I hammered them on until I could get a good grip with a *good* nut and pulled it on.
As long as it doesn't take a 50# sledge and the incredible hulk swinging it, it should be ok.
As long as it doesn't take a 50# sledge and the incredible hulk swinging it, it should be ok.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,057
Likes: 1,612
From: Seattle
Chad
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: NC
I've been beating the hell out of it with a 2lb hammer. It's on, but not nearly all the way. I'd guess still has 1/2 - 3/4" to go. I'd think it should go easier but maybe not. I even repulsed it back off and added a little grease hoping ti make it easier but that didnt make a difference. Back at it again now.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 760
Likes: 35
From: Mid-South Missouri
If your wood block is bouncing, you may have to take a flat steel plate and use that on top of the wood block. . 1/2" thick and long enough to hang onto.
The steel won't absorb the blows like wood does.
Or drill a hole in the plate and bolt it to the block
Or dump the wood block and use the steel plate. Be careful and keep it flat though.
The steel won't absorb the blows like wood does.
Or drill a hole in the plate and bolt it to the block
Or dump the wood block and use the steel plate. Be careful and keep it flat though.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: NC
I'm not having so much an issue with the block bouncing. Just beating on the crap so hard I'm questioning if I'm gonna knock the truck off the jack stands down onto myself (I'm probably not literally hitting it that hard, but it feels like it).
So far I split 2 2x6's and my 2x4 I'm using now has indentions from the yolk about to 1/3 its depth. I know I've got some aluminum plate but not sure I've got some steel plate. I'll go take a look to see if I do have any cause that would make it better.
So far I split 2 2x6's and my 2x4 I'm using now has indentions from the yolk about to 1/3 its depth. I know I've got some aluminum plate but not sure I've got some steel plate. I'll go take a look to see if I do have any cause that would make it better.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: NC
I tried aluminum and that bounces way too much, couldnt make any progress with that. With where I've got it now, can anyone give me a good reason to not use an air ratchet or hand ratchet to finish seating it? I'd prefer use an air gun to take it most of the way and finish it with the torque wrench.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: NC
While the compressor was filling up, I figured I'd give it a shot with a hand ratchet. It pulled on super easy, way easier than I wouldve expected by hand. For future reference, I now now to beat it on as far as itll go easily, then hand wrench it the rest of the way on. Now off to get the rational torque straight.
.............
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Elder User
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From: NC
I've got it back to around 8 or 9 in-lbs, and appear to be little further on the pinion than I was before, but not by much. The nut is around 185 ft lbs now. Do I call it good now? I'm confused at where to go to, dont want to go too far. I dont feel any play when I change direction while rotating it.