Trust me, I had many years of doing that and dont miss it one bit ha. This garage was long overdue. The only thing that could make things better would be a lift...maybe one day.

Becky, I'll keep that in mind with the slide hammer. I'm planning to get back into it this evening. Ran into some issues with my daily driver that I had to fix last night, so I should be good to go today. Maybe I'll take a puller home with me from work to just play it safe.

 

Good call on the puller, that made things super easy, and it was definitely needed all the way until she was fully pulled off. Quick question before I put stuff back together in case I have another issue.

I had 8 in-lbs that I measured before I took stuff apart. The pinion nut was torqued to greater than my wrench would read, which was 250 ft lbs, but not much more by the feels of it. Does that high of a torque on the nut coupled with the lower rotational torque mean I have something else that needs to be replaced?

Secondly, I thought the yolk was keyed, so I did not mark its alignment to the shaft. I only marked the nuts alignment to the yolk, which I'm realizing now was completely pointless and will not help me anymore. What does this mean for me?

 

The seal puller that I have for my slide hammer wont not only wont fit between the pinion and seal lip, but the angle is also wrong to go around the pinion shaft. If the shaft wasnt there, I'd be in business. I'm having trouble locating something that will work at the auto parts store too without pulling the housing and using a press. Any recommendations or pointers to the proper tool I should be using?

 

That is a inner race/bearing puller, not a seal puller.

BRB

 

A sharp chisel, you can gently cut the front part of the seal, then a bar, heavy screwdriver and pop it out.
Or get one of these. Parts houses carry them.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-seal-puller-p

 

Sounds good, thanks for the reply. I saw one of those tools but some reason thought that was for something else. Do they work pretty easily? Or would the 45 min round trip not be worth it to pick one up? For how cheap it is, if they work well, I'll go ride up the road.

 

They are ok. Sometimes they will actually tear/rip the front metal part of the seal instead of pull it out, but just try another spot. Just be a bulldog (persistent) and it will come out.

 

Perfect, sounds good.

 

Do you have the tapered and threaded end attachments for the slide hammer used to pull/pop dents out? If so drill couple small 1/8 " holes in metal part of seal - thread in and use slide hammer.

Exceeding 250 ft pounds to remove a lock nut that has been on there likely 50+ years sounds normal to me, so would not be concerned about that.

There is no master spline on the yoke/pinion interface; does not matter how you put back on. The mark to reassemble in the same orientation talked about in the shop manual is the driveshaft to the yoke I assume that has to do with balance on the driveshaft.

 

I'm pretty sure i do have that attachment in the kit, I'll check in the morning, got a long weekend for the holiday. The new nut I ordered ended up not being the right one so it looks like I'll be using the old one again. The new one was way too big, not sure what it was supposed to be for.

 

There's a danger of getting metal cuttings in the front of the bearing if you drill.....

 

I think I'm going to try the seal puller first and go from there.

 

That is a good point. If you do drill holes to use slide hammer coat drill bit in wheel bearing grease - that will hold the shavings to the bit.

Yes, it is tough sometimes when ordering parts for these old trucks. Places like to "expand" the fitment for the parts they are selling.

 

I've had better luck working a old wood chisel around the seal lip than with the 'hook' seal puller.... yeah, I have both, but prefer the chisel approach.

"Your mileage may vary". - BarnieTrk

 

I know one thing, and that's that she'll be out tomorrow. Between all of the options that I have now, I'll make something work. As always, thanks everyone.