Alternator died on 1998 E350
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
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From: Bay Area
Alternator died on 1998 E350
I think my alternator died. Long story short, I bought a used 1998 E350 last week with a repaired radiator. I installed new radiator last night flushed the system. I flushed it again today after work and the van died with the hose inside the degass bottle. I jump started the van and watched the alternator gauge on the dash plummet to zero volts.
The alternator looks new and the owner says he never replaced it or cannot remember. It's not a Ford alternator.
I found a remanufactured 130 amp at AutoNation White Bear Lake, Minnesota for $165. I don't feel like buying the life time guaranteed alternators from Autozone or O'Reilly's because once it's in the van, I don't want to change it.
The alternator looks new and the owner says he never replaced it or cannot remember. It's not a Ford alternator.
I found a remanufactured 130 amp at AutoNation White Bear Lake, Minnesota for $165. I don't feel like buying the life time guaranteed alternators from Autozone or O'Reilly's because once it's in the van, I don't want to change it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I've used nothing but NAPA's better quality line of new alternators since at least 2008---have changed maybe 4 on different E-Series over that time, not all mine. 
I think they run about $200 without exchange but I've never had any of them fail since first installed. I'm okay with reman'd electrical parts but only if I know who rebuilt them. I'm lucky in having a highly experienced and knowledgeable rebuilding locally whose prices are more than fair. Last Ford alternator he did cost me like $135. His attention to detail is rarely seen these days. I'll be sad to see him retire but since we're close to the same age I would completely understand.
I've with you 100% on NOT buying that lifetime guarantee stuff that's as prone to early failure as lasting a "lifetime". One and done for me so few more dollars up front is the much better way IMHO.
Replace the belt and check the tensioner and any idler pulleys---with your low mileage that might not be necessary but if/when those begin having bearing issues they cause premature belt wear. If you can find Motorcraft parts through Rockauto or eBay go that route---shop around for good prices if you have the luxury of shipping time waiting.
I think they run about $200 without exchange but I've never had any of them fail since first installed. I'm okay with reman'd electrical parts but only if I know who rebuilt them. I'm lucky in having a highly experienced and knowledgeable rebuilding locally whose prices are more than fair. Last Ford alternator he did cost me like $135. His attention to detail is rarely seen these days. I'll be sad to see him retire but since we're close to the same age I would completely understand. I've with you 100% on NOT buying that lifetime guarantee stuff that's as prone to early failure as lasting a "lifetime". One and done for me so few more dollars up front is the much better way IMHO.
Replace the belt and check the tensioner and any idler pulleys---with your low mileage that might not be necessary but if/when those begin having bearing issues they cause premature belt wear. If you can find Motorcraft parts through Rockauto or eBay go that route---shop around for good prices if you have the luxury of shipping time waiting.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 26
From: Bay Area
The AutoNation White Bear Lake is a Ford dealership and the alternator is a 130 amp Ford Motorcraft. It's under $200 including. I will look at the Napa alternator. I bought a new Bosch for my diesel van and it's been running for a year. Mixed reviews about Bosch quality lately.
Can you post what model Napa alternators that you purchased? I found several. Do you use the 130 amp alternators?
BTW, removing the radiator and reinstalling was easy. I did not remove the fan or the shroud. There is plenty of room to push the fan shroud forward and slip the radiator in and out.
Can you post what model Napa alternators that you purchased? I found several. Do you use the 130 amp alternators?
BTW, removing the radiator and reinstalling was easy. I did not remove the fan or the shroud. There is plenty of room to push the fan shroud forward and slip the radiator in and out.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 26
From: Bay Area
I removed the alternator in less than 15 minutes. It has Motorcraft stamped on the back. It looks almost brand new. I suspect it's a Motorcraft case with Chinese guts. Off to O'reilly's to test the alternator.
alternator failed all tests. I am ordering MOTORCRAFT alternator from AutoNation White Bear Lake Ford.
alternator failed all tests. I am ordering MOTORCRAFT alternator from AutoNation White Bear Lake Ford.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 26
From: Bay Area
idler pulley feels sticky
I removed the failed alternator this morning and noticed the idler pulley does not feel as smooth as my kid's skateboard wheel bearings. If I spin the pulley, it stops within a second or two. How smooth should it be? If anyone knows the correct bearing size I can easily replace it.
The belt tensioner feels solid. Belt tensioner on this van is easy to replace. I think I will wait for another 10K miles.
The serpentine belt is shot! It had cracks and chips. Probably 10 years old. I bought a new Continental belt and it's ready for installation. Even when you think the previous owner did proper maintenance, it's never the same standards as people on the FTE.
The belt tensioner feels solid. Belt tensioner on this van is easy to replace. I think I will wait for another 10K miles.
The serpentine belt is shot! It had cracks and chips. Probably 10 years old. I bought a new Continental belt and it's ready for installation. Even when you think the previous owner did proper maintenance, it's never the same standards as people on the FTE.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Little to no movement of the water pump shaft is the bare minimum, at least IMHO. Considering how easily and inexpensive those are it won't break the bank installing a new one. I bought these but the price was under $25 each just a few months ago: eBay Motorcraft PW-423 RockAuto has them for about $35 but they add shipping charges. If the belt was as bad as you say chances are the water pump is original.
Idler pulleys should spin freely, no slop suggesting bearing wear is the goal. I don't know the bearing size but a trust mechanic friend says he found a source for those and swaps them out on fleet vehicles he services. I'm sure they could be found through eBay. I just buy complete new units---they're cheap enough that too won't break the bank.
As for the typical vehicle owner---they drive them until they no longer go, only then thinking something needs "looked at......" The serpentine belt condition is too often over looked---when those break unexpectedly you're waiting for a two truck by the side of the road. Another item that's cheap enough we can't run without, changing them at 100K miles or if a visual inspection reveals cracks etc is good preventative maintenance.
Idler pulleys should spin freely, no slop suggesting bearing wear is the goal. I don't know the bearing size but a trust mechanic friend says he found a source for those and swaps them out on fleet vehicles he services. I'm sure they could be found through eBay. I just buy complete new units---they're cheap enough that too won't break the bank.
As for the typical vehicle owner---they drive them until they no longer go, only then thinking something needs "looked at......"
The serpentine belt condition is too often over looked---when those break unexpectedly you're waiting for a two truck by the side of the road. Another item that's cheap enough we can't run without, changing them at 100K miles or if a visual inspection reveals cracks etc is good preventative maintenance.
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