97 7.3 No start
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New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 16
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From: Everett, WA
Ok, so I put in a new starter (high torque, it's HUGE) and now engine cranks like a beast but still no start. The GPR seems to be working fine. Also, the RPM's are now registering on the tach again.
I hooked up a Forscan scanner and ran a few tests. Did a buzz test and it seemed like it only ran the drivers side bank, and came back with DTC p1219 and p1298. There was one good buzz then the next three were short dashes. Also performed a self test and DTC P1754, P0344 P1705, P1219, and P1298 came up.
From the little bit of research I've done so far, it seems like the IDM is bad with the P1298 code. What I don't know is if the other codes are related. I'm wondering if a bod IDM can cause the other codes, or if something else failing could cause the P1298? I want to fix the definite issues first and not chase ghosts. Thanks.
I hooked up a Forscan scanner and ran a few tests. Did a buzz test and it seemed like it only ran the drivers side bank, and came back with DTC p1219 and p1298. There was one good buzz then the next three were short dashes. Also performed a self test and DTC P1754, P0344 P1705, P1219, and P1298 came up.
From the little bit of research I've done so far, it seems like the IDM is bad with the P1298 code. What I don't know is if the other codes are related. I'm wondering if a bod IDM can cause the other codes, or if something else failing could cause the P1298? I want to fix the definite issues first and not chase ghosts. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,220
Likes: 1,342
From: Bahstun
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...load-test.html
I think you might have a short in the injector harness. The above link has a pic to ohm it out. Good idea to do before changing IDM
I think you might have a short in the injector harness. The above link has a pic to ohm it out. Good idea to do before changing IDM
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New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 16
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From: Everett, WA
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...load-test.html
I think you might have a short in the injector harness. The above link has a pic to ohm it out. Good idea to do before changing IDM
I think you might have a short in the injector harness. The above link has a pic to ohm it out. Good idea to do before changing IDM
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,568
Likes: 2,036
From: North Texas
Yes, I did replace the starter shortly before my problems started. That wouldn't cause the engine losing power and dying, but I do need to replace again as I think I've completely killed it with all the long cranks I've been doing. Batteries are fully charged and went out to crank and it barely moved. After a couple tries it's now just clicking. I got a Forscan adapter today and hooked it up but since it wouldn't hardly crank I haven't gotten much info yet. Looks like another starter and re-evaluate.
Agreed it will not cause it to die, but it will cause restart issues is why I asked. Plug it in too for a few hours, it will save you from having to cycle the GPs plus less wear on the starter.
Used IDMs are $50-150, scope on ebay or maybe hit someone up on here. You will pretty much never see a complete 7.3 PSD in the junkyards here, I went a few days after one was dropped... engine already pulled! You can borrow my spare IDM, but I will need a deposit plus you pay freight both ways. Unless you are in DFW I can bring it by your house.
I never could get those USB things to work, maybe my phone is too cheap. I looked into buying a better tablet, but at their cost I may as well buy an updated laptop as they are a few dollars more and Auto Enginuity works on it. https://www.autoenginuity.com/ All the big players on here recommend it. I just know how to indepth test sensors and read schematics well, so I never bought it when I had issues.
Even if half the injectors were firing, I would think it would sputter and whatnot some. I am wondering if your HPOP is clapped out. A quick ICP unplug can make the PCM go into default pressure mode if that is bad, takes virtually no effort to do this.
Keep at it, I know you are pissed. I wasted two hours yesterday diagnosing my recently dead power locks...got no where.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 16
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From: Everett, WA
Agreed it will not cause it to die, but it will cause restart issues is why I asked. Plug it in too for a few hours, it will save you from having to cycle the GPs plus less wear on the starter.
Used IDMs are $50-150, scope on ebay or maybe hit someone up on here. You will pretty much never see a complete 7.3 PSD in the junkyards here, I went a few days after one was dropped... engine already pulled! You can borrow my spare IDM, but I will need a deposit plus you pay freight both ways. Unless you are in DFW I can bring it by your house.
I never could get those USB things to work, maybe my phone is too cheap. I looked into buying a better tablet, but at their cost I may as well buy an updated laptop as they are a few dollars more and Auto Enginuity works on it. https://www.autoenginuity.com/ All the big players on here recommend it. I just know how to indepth test sensors and read schematics well, so I never bought it when I had issues.
Even if half the injectors were firing, I would think it would sputter and whatnot some. I am wondering if your HPOP is clapped out. A quick ICP unplug can make the PCM go into default pressure mode if that is bad, takes virtually no effort to do this.
Keep at it, I know you are pissed. I wasted two hours yesterday diagnosing my recently dead power locks...got no where.
Used IDMs are $50-150, scope on ebay or maybe hit someone up on here. You will pretty much never see a complete 7.3 PSD in the junkyards here, I went a few days after one was dropped... engine already pulled! You can borrow my spare IDM, but I will need a deposit plus you pay freight both ways. Unless you are in DFW I can bring it by your house.
I never could get those USB things to work, maybe my phone is too cheap. I looked into buying a better tablet, but at their cost I may as well buy an updated laptop as they are a few dollars more and Auto Enginuity works on it. https://www.autoenginuity.com/ All the big players on here recommend it. I just know how to indepth test sensors and read schematics well, so I never bought it when I had issues.
Even if half the injectors were firing, I would think it would sputter and whatnot some. I am wondering if your HPOP is clapped out. A quick ICP unplug can make the PCM go into default pressure mode if that is bad, takes virtually no effort to do this.
Keep at it, I know you are pissed. I wasted two hours yesterday diagnosing my recently dead power locks...got no where.
I bought a $20 USB adapter and used my laptop with Forscan, since it was free and could do a buzz test. Like I said, I only got one injector to buzz. After the new starter, there is smoke coming from the exhaust again, but not even an attempt to start. I think it was just not cranking fast enough to do anything before.
I'm not giving up. I feel like i'm getting close and have learned a lot up to this point, so when she finally gets back on the road I'll be in good shape going forward.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,111
Likes: 1,549
From: western SD
I would suggest trying your IDM in his truck. If something on your truck fried yours, you might wind up ruining his by plugging his into your truck. If yours is bad, the no start will follow to his truck.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 16
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From: Everett, WA
I think that's the plan. If his doesn't start I'll order up a new one.
New User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Palmetto
Intermittant no nothing.
Took both apart, no corrosion, not loose, cleaned them up anyway, applied CRC 2-26 to bolt and ground terminals. Started fine, time will tell.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 16
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From: Everett, WA
Alright, so my friend put my IDM in his truck and no start, so that's reassuring. I'm ready to order a new one. Found a reman Bostech IDM-110 for $210 and can ship immediately. I'd like to stay away from the send it in for reman program, since it seems like you get charged even if it's not repairable, so might as well just purchase and be done with it. Any issues with the Bostech ones or is there someone out there that's kinda the go-to for these?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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I just purchased one from Sinister Diesel. They seem to have a good warranty and real fast survice. It also looks like that wasn't my problem, and since I cant return it I may be wiling to sell it if you are interested. Right now it looks like my PCM may be the culplrit, which would make sense since it costs twice as much...
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 16
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From: Everett, WA
Ended up with a reman Bostech IDM and put it in last night. Started right up! Ran a little rough for a bit, but settled down (it has been about a year since it ran). Started again this morning and idled fine. I still need to put some parts back on before I can take it around the block.
I was a little bummed with the amount of white smoke still billowing out, I had hoped the new glow plugs would help with that. The smoke was better this morning when I started it again, but still more than i'd like to see. Any ideas on where I should start on the smoke issue?
I was a little bummed with the amount of white smoke still billowing out, I had hoped the new glow plugs would help with that. The smoke was better this morning when I started it again, but still more than i'd like to see. Any ideas on where I should start on the smoke issue?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,220
Likes: 1,342
From: Bahstun
Been a year. Its going to have moisture in it. run it for a bit under load to clear it out before looking more
How long did you wait before cranking?
when 60 F or higher, I don't wait at all.
At 55 I wait for WTS to go out
at 40 I wait 5 seconds more than WTS
anything lower and ill wait an extra 10-15 seconds
The less you wait, the more smoke you get
If injector armature is too tight, ignition is retarded and not all fuel will combust making white smoke
There are kits to fix this and can reduce the smoke but not all of it.
How long did you wait before cranking?
when 60 F or higher, I don't wait at all.
At 55 I wait for WTS to go out
at 40 I wait 5 seconds more than WTS
anything lower and ill wait an extra 10-15 seconds
The less you wait, the more smoke you get
If injector armature is too tight, ignition is retarded and not all fuel will combust making white smoke
There are kits to fix this and can reduce the smoke but not all of it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 23
From: Central Texas
Jumping in with similar issue
@calvinhg has a similar issue with his 1997 7.3 but the truck always does finally start (so far). Crank no start when cold with lots of white smoke. Cranks fast, no problem with batteries or starter. After a few tries and 10-30 total seconds cranking, it fires up smoothly.
Another symptom is slight idle surge when fully warm. For that we suspect O-rings on injectors or IPR. Could those also cause cold crank no start? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ging-idle.html
Thanks for the excellent flowchart. Calvin works as an automotive tech so any work on his truck has to happen when he's not fixing customer cars...like after work.
Another symptom is slight idle surge when fully warm. For that we suspect O-rings on injectors or IPR. Could those also cause cold crank no start? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ging-idle.html
Thanks for the excellent flowchart. Calvin works as an automotive tech so any work on his truck has to happen when he's not fixing customer cars...like after work.
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