Stranded roadside - fuel issue
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
You might know better since you've had one of these apart and mighta played with it, but this style pump usually doesn't allow back-flow freely enough to be able to blow out the screen. But, if you reverse the electrical leads I think it'll pump backwards which should effectively blow any junk out. I'd disconnect the fuel lines first.
I did a post mortem on my OE pump, and there is indeed a check ball in there. Don't know the function tho.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
If you live where it gets cold during the winter I suggest staying away from the Baldwin BF7725. Lots of people have used them with no issues. I never gelled up before before I did the H&H mods in my 7.3 but after I did and winter came along I constantly had problems with that filter clogging from cold fuel. I live in Michigan where brutal winds and lake effect snow seems to be a daily thing during winter. No one wants to be under their truck before the sun is up and it's -30 on the side of the expressway changing a filter.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7,308
Likes: 250
From: Hartford, WI
If you live where it gets cold during the winter I suggest staying away from the Baldwin BF7725. Lots of people have used them with no issues. I never gelled up before before I did the H&H mods in my 7.3 but after I did and winter came along I constantly had problems with that filter clogging from cold fuel. I live in Michigan where brutal winds and lake effect snow seems to be a daily thing during winter. No one wants to be under their truck before the sun is up and it's -30 on the side of the expressway changing a filter.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
It's pretty simple if you look at it a little differently then you are, the freezing point obviously doesn't change... I never had a single problem with the fuel system when I had that truck during the winter until I did the H&H mod and installed that filter. If I recall correctly I could clearly see where the fuel was not allowed to pass through the baldwin filter creating a block point when small amounts of fuel would gell. What I came up with was that before I put that filter in, the small amounts would make it's way to the fuel bowl but the filter in the fuel bowl is considerably larger so I never had an issue, not to mention engine heat under the hood. Now take away any possible radiant heat and shrink the filter down to a much smaller size and you have a problem. Make sense now?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 885
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
Earlier I reversed electrical leads on fuel pump let it run til it went dry. hoping that blew some crud out but my catch pan wasn’t clean so I don’t really know. Only need to use it like this another 3 days before I can put my new Bosch pump on. Gonna get a Napa barbed filter to hold me over the next couple months til the move is complete and boating season is over and then I’ll probably go Racor. For those of you debating the freezing issue, wouldn’t the racor create the exact same issues though? It gets pretty cold in Pittsburgh but I use Schaefer’s winter blend and haven’t ever had a gel issue but now you’ve got me wondering.
My new question is this: can I cut the rubber line between factory hard line and pump input and install the filter in the middle of that or is this not your average rubber line? Don’t have time to replace all my quick connects right now but want to put the new pump in ASAP and don’t want anything in it.
My new question is this: can I cut the rubber line between factory hard line and pump input and install the filter in the middle of that or is this not your average rubber line? Don’t have time to replace all my quick connects right now but want to put the new pump in ASAP and don’t want anything in it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
The more surface area the better, the small Baldwin filter was just too small for the situations i was in in extreme cold. Something like the fleetguard that David posted on page 2 or the racor would have worked great.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
John is spot on. Think of it this way. Both the BF7725 and PS120 have 120 mesh openings, so ...
larger surface area (PS120)
= more screen mesh openings
= more "open area" for the fuel to flow through
= less pressure drop across the filter screen
= longer run times between potential pluggage problems
larger surface area (PS120)
= more screen mesh openings
= more "open area" for the fuel to flow through
= less pressure drop across the filter screen
= longer run times between potential pluggage problems
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,753
Likes: 34
From: Los Angeles, Ca.
Kinda like the idea of reversing the leads of the pump to send fuel backwards to the tank to blow out the filters. I'm thinking that disconnecting the fuel lines would leave very little fuel to push the crud out. Maybe a can of clean fuel and a hose to the pump output would work to get enough fuel volume. Or perhaps remove the fuel bowl lid first so the column of fuel in the line can accomplish the reverse flush. I think you or a helper will need to poke a screwdriver into the filter tower in the bowl to fool the truck into thinking the cap is present. And obviously just prime, don't crank it over.
I did a post mortem on my OE pump, and there is indeed a check ball in there. Don't know the function tho.
I did a post mortem on my OE pump, and there is indeed a check ball in there. Don't know the function tho.
The check ball you saw is probably the pressure relief valve and not a check valve.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,753
Likes: 34
From: Los Angeles, Ca.
I don't recall seeing a check assembly inside the unit, but there may be one built into a piece which I didn't dismantle. If I'd had more forethought, I would have saved my other dead fuel pump from a couple years ago and taken another stab at getting it open without complete destruction, but that's hindsight for you!
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
AFAIK there isn't a check valve, but the pump itself (the 'rollers' that push the fuel) will severely restrict back-flow so blowing air backwards to clear the screen probably won't work unless you get enough pressure to spin the pump backwards. Even then, once the fuel is shot out the air won't do squat to clean the filter.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 885
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
Bought new Bosch pump, figure with 213k and what looks to be the original pump, its not a complete waste of money or time to throw a new one on. I haven't had any issues since I reversed the electrical leads and backflushed it though...
The inlet hose definitely doens't seem to be regular rubber, which I kind of figured since it has the plastic kind-of-quick-connect on it. Anyone know if I can just pull/cut it off the metal hard line and splice my filter in between 5/16 fuel injection hose? That's my plan for a temporary fix for the next few months. For the filter I got the wix/napa mesh barb filter. Seemed kind of pricey at almost $15 for that little guy, but I don't have time to pinch pennies like that right now.
The inlet hose definitely doens't seem to be regular rubber, which I kind of figured since it has the plastic kind-of-quick-connect on it. Anyone know if I can just pull/cut it off the metal hard line and splice my filter in between 5/16 fuel injection hose? That's my plan for a temporary fix for the next few months. For the filter I got the wix/napa mesh barb filter. Seemed kind of pricey at almost $15 for that little guy, but I don't have time to pinch pennies like that right now.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
I don't know if you can use the existing line... most of us run a new hose when we do this. I've never heard of anyone cutting the existing line and inserting anything into it between the tank and pump.
If you try that approach (splicing new little strainer into existing pump suction line), I would only make the cut when you have the time to run a completely new hose and have that hose (and requisite fuel injector clamps) in hand when the cut is made.
If you try that approach (splicing new little strainer into existing pump suction line), I would only make the cut when you have the time to run a completely new hose and have that hose (and requisite fuel injector clamps) in hand when the cut is made.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 885
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
Fair enough, I decided just to do the new rubber line god knows i've got plenty of it laying around. Heck it'll make my moving box .00001 pound lighter. Old pump still working after backflushing, won't get to new pump install until saturday. Thanks for the help everyone!