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I think your problem lays within the plumbing, inside the tank. If that intake compression union ring is not digging into the new riffraff included tube, then your sucking air as bad as a fat kid chasing a candy bar...funny how, you add fuel. (maybe enough to go above the union) and you now experience no issues.
I think your problem lays within the plumbing, inside the tank. If that intake compression union ring is not digging into the new riffraff included tube, then your sucking air as bad as a fat kid chasing a candy bar...funny how, you add fuel. (maybe enough to go above the union) and you now experience no issues.
This was actually my first thought because I didn’t have my vacuum tester available when I did the compression fitting but it’s super snug. Either way, that was my first thought. Tank was at half, added 10 gal which reads 3/4. Problem is, I still had the issue after adding the 10 gal, which to me eliminates the compression fitting. The problem didn’t go away until I checked the fuel lines and sucked some clean diesel right from the can into the pump. But after reconnecting to factory tank, and without adding any more fuel, no issues still after using enough to return to about 1/2 tank. So I dont think it’s the compression fitting.
Perhaps the mechanics of disconnecting the pump suction line and reconnecting it allowed enough line movement to resolve a kink between the tank and the pump.
Perhaps the mechanics of disconnecting the pump suction line and reconnecting it allowed enough line movement to resolve a kink between the tank and the pump.
Exactly what I’m thinking. I also reached up into the C of the frame to make sure nothing was pinched so I moved the lines quite a bit even though nothing was obviously kinked or pinched I think that’s what it was.
Over my 12+ years here in FTE, I've seen a number of reports where the pinched/kinked fuel line bug has bitten other members (my oldest son being one of them).
Well I no longer think it was the sucking air or kinked fuel line because it happened to me again today. Started losing power going up a hill so I pulled over but it idled smooth after sitting 30 seconds. Pulled back into roadway and it stalled. Primed fuel pump 3 times, running fine ever since.
Found my code reader- no related codes. Ran PIDs and they all looked okay, but again this was after it started running fine.
New conclusion is that the fuel pump must be sucking junk in due to no pre-filter. Think I’m gonna pull the bed and redo factory hoses and add a racor or something similar this weekend maybe.
Nothing for nothing, but I finally got around to swapping my "temporary" barbed style in line filter for the Racor. It "only" took me a few years. Now my fuel pressure is 5lbs higher and rock steady even under a load. I haven't been hard on the skinny pedal as I have less than 600 miles on a new clutch, but the noise seems to be reduced and I haven't had the FP drop to 45 like before.
Nothing for nothing, but I finally got around to swapping my "temporary" barbed style in line filter for the Racor. It "only" took me a few years. Now my fuel pressure is 5lbs higher and rock steady even under a load. I haven't been hard on the skinny pedal as I have less than 600 miles on a new clutch, but the noise seems to be reduced and I haven't had the FP drop to 45 like before.
im definitely considering a temporary barbed filter just because this moving thing is eating up all my time. I was really concerned about the fuel pressure drop but if you did it for 5 years, I definitely think I could manage for a couple months I suppose?
It sort of depends on where your pluggage is taking place. If inside the pump, the only potential way to clear that internal screen is to disconnect the pressure (discharge) end and blow compressed air backwards through the pump and into the tank. If, on the other hand, the plugging particles are large enough, they could be blocking the hard tube at the inlet or getting caught up in the 90° bend on the external hard tube where the fuel hose connects on top of tank.
Then again, there is the potential that it's an intermittent issue in the pump which is telling you that it's getting ready to just give out. Have you checked your wiring connections to make sure that you don't have a loosed connection which is "almost tight"?
I'd take the screen off the foot altogether so you can avoid dropping the tank unless a horrible amount of crap gets in. This way anything goes to the filter before the pump
It sort of depends on where your pluggage is taking place. If inside the pump, the only potential way to clear that internal screen is to disconnect the pressure (discharge) end and blow compressed air backwards through the pump and into the tank.
You might know better since you've had one of these apart and mighta played with it, but this style pump usually doesn't allow back-flow freely enough to be able to blow out the screen. But, if you reverse the electrical leads I think it'll pump backwards which should effectively blow any junk out. I'd disconnect the fuel lines first.
I don't recall seeing a check assembly inside the unit, but there may be one built into a piece which I didn't dismantle. If I'd had more forethought, I would have saved my other dead fuel pump from a couple years ago and taken another stab at getting it open without complete destruction, but that's hindsight for you!
It does sound like fuel starvation. It can run fine at idle or goosing it in park, since that is much less fuel required than actually pushing that beast down the road.
I'd stick in a barb pre-pump filter and spend the Racor money on a fuel pressure gauge. Pic below from Chris (F350-6) shows some options. I'm running the Case filter now after several years of a teensy Fram G3. Then you'll know for sure if fuel starvation is the issue.
I think you mentioned temps at some point. When beginning to fail the IPR will work fine when cool, but acts up when it gets hot. If that fits the pattern you can try cooling the IPR and see if it cures the issue. Ways I've seen to cool the IPR are a cup of ice dropped there, or an inverted can of air. Like the kind used to clean keyboards and electronics.
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