88 302.fi
#1
88 302.fi
Last week after completing my build on this truck I insured it and starting driving it around to see how it felt and work any bugs out that may come up.
After driving for 20 min I sat in it idling for about 5 min in which it felt like starved for fuel and died.
i tried to restart and after awhile managed to get it going, at this point I have switched from rear to front talks and back and forth to see if any difference.
it would start up then I'd move ahead and die again.
Limped it home and begain diagnosis.
Installed new fuel filter awhile back, new front tank, new float/ pump in rear.
Can hear high pressure pump come on w ignition.
changed fuel pump relay the other night
This truck has not been run regularly in years. The motor is new.
it feels like it's getting fuel, then not getting fuel.
Any direction you can give me would be appreciated.
After driving for 20 min I sat in it idling for about 5 min in which it felt like starved for fuel and died.
i tried to restart and after awhile managed to get it going, at this point I have switched from rear to front talks and back and forth to see if any difference.
it would start up then I'd move ahead and die again.
Limped it home and begain diagnosis.
Installed new fuel filter awhile back, new front tank, new float/ pump in rear.
Can hear high pressure pump come on w ignition.
changed fuel pump relay the other night
This truck has not been run regularly in years. The motor is new.
it feels like it's getting fuel, then not getting fuel.
Any direction you can give me would be appreciated.
#2
can you check fuel pressure while idling? Sometimes fuel pressure regulator goes bad, and you can do a quick check of regulator by pulling vacuum line off and see if you can smell fuel in vacuum line,if you don't smell fuel, it still don't rule out regulator completely(how old is yours) I put new one on mine 6-8 months ago and it gave up shot fuel pressure up to 47psi at idle, I got adjustable this time
#3
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#7
Not making any headway with my fuel issue.
one thing I have noticed is the truck has to really warm up before it starts choking and dying.
bought a code reader, gave me no codes other than 11 all systems good.
i made sure I was under truck listening to high pressure pump once it started to die, seems to be going allthough it has a fairly loud buzz to it.
waiting on a loaner fuel pressure tester.
would welcome any suggestions.
thanks
one thing I have noticed is the truck has to really warm up before it starts choking and dying.
bought a code reader, gave me no codes other than 11 all systems good.
i made sure I was under truck listening to high pressure pump once it started to die, seems to be going allthough it has a fairly loud buzz to it.
waiting on a loaner fuel pressure tester.
would welcome any suggestions.
thanks
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#8
until you get fuel pressure tested, if you can use an DVM(digital volt meter) you can check your ignition coil, it could be breaking down slowly and thats why it is dying on you after it gets warmed up/driven, is it the original coil(have you changed it) this web site shows you how to check--> itstillruns.com/test-ford-ignition-coil-5941137.html shows you how,
#9
Your issue sounds very similar to mine. I can almost always start my 89 302 cold and drive as long and far as I want until I stop. If I shut the truck off it will almost never start up again until I’ve allowed it to cool. Until one cold morning it didn’t start at all. Next time it happens check for a good consistent spark, I wound up replacing the PCM and the ICM.
#10
I am no further along trying to figure out my truck running issue.
As always warm up, drive around for 15 then it starts chugging, sputtering, lugging like it's getting no gas.
I changed main fuel pump and regulator last eve. No fun there !
New fuel pump relay, fuel filter, fresh gas.
injector cleaner through tank.
Inspected that thing on side of throttle body, cleaned well , plugged back in.
What the heck is affected by heat that once warm it starts to die.
Doesnt matter which tank im on either.
Fuel pressure is tested at 32 lbs.
Drops to 20 then 10 when starts dying.
new plugs, wires cap & rotor.
timing @ about 11deg.
really thought I had it going tonight on test drive, felt good, snappy throttle.
After 15 bairly made it home.
Finally got a code 29 out of reader that indicates why my cruise does not work and rear abs light on dash.
if any one has any shots in the dark about this that would be fantastic.
As always warm up, drive around for 15 then it starts chugging, sputtering, lugging like it's getting no gas.
I changed main fuel pump and regulator last eve. No fun there !
New fuel pump relay, fuel filter, fresh gas.
injector cleaner through tank.
Inspected that thing on side of throttle body, cleaned well , plugged back in.
What the heck is affected by heat that once warm it starts to die.
Doesnt matter which tank im on either.
Fuel pressure is tested at 32 lbs.
Drops to 20 then 10 when starts dying.
new plugs, wires cap & rotor.
timing @ about 11deg.
really thought I had it going tonight on test drive, felt good, snappy throttle.
After 15 bairly made it home.
Finally got a code 29 out of reader that indicates why my cruise does not work and rear abs light on dash.
if any one has any shots in the dark about this that would be fantastic.
#12
have you checked your vacuum solenoids? The TAB/TAD as I understand are used to regulate proper vacuum per condition.
Have a mechanical tank valve/reservoir? Some of them can be cleaned, others need replacing. $200 part. But for $20 you can buy chunks of fuel line to bypass the valve/reservoir. This would restrict to only one tank, but will indicate whether the part need replacing/cleaning or isn’t a factor..
Low to begin with, have you checked voltages to pumps? If the tanks are old, have you considered having them flushed? Have you flushed the fuel lines? Disconnect both ends of each chunk of fuel line and blow compressed air through. Probably gonna want to stick the other end into a gas can or similar container. Check all your ground wires under the hood as welll as the batt(+) to starter solenoid. Extreme corrosion or loose connections may provide proper continuity until they heat up and expand to open the circuit..
Have a mechanical tank valve/reservoir? Some of them can be cleaned, others need replacing. $200 part. But for $20 you can buy chunks of fuel line to bypass the valve/reservoir. This would restrict to only one tank, but will indicate whether the part need replacing/cleaning or isn’t a factor..
Low to begin with, have you checked voltages to pumps? If the tanks are old, have you considered having them flushed? Have you flushed the fuel lines? Disconnect both ends of each chunk of fuel line and blow compressed air through. Probably gonna want to stick the other end into a gas can or similar container. Check all your ground wires under the hood as welll as the batt(+) to starter solenoid. Extreme corrosion or loose connections may provide proper continuity until they heat up and expand to open the circuit..
#13
I just tried "key on " truck running with code reader.
Had trouble keeping truck going to complete an accurate code retrieval.
I did get a 44 meaning thermactor air system fault.
So I'm just trying to figure that one out.
I have not checked voltage to pumps but sure was a bunch of fuel pouring out of lines that I disconnected inline to diverter.
Front tank is new, pump is original.
rear tank is old pump,is new.
once truck is cooled overnight I will try code reader again and hope to see something.
Anyone have any ideas about my code 44?
appreciate the help fellas ! Thanks
Had trouble keeping truck going to complete an accurate code retrieval.
I did get a 44 meaning thermactor air system fault.
So I'm just trying to figure that one out.
I have not checked voltage to pumps but sure was a bunch of fuel pouring out of lines that I disconnected inline to diverter.
Front tank is new, pump is original.
rear tank is old pump,is new.
once truck is cooled overnight I will try code reader again and hope to see something.
Anyone have any ideas about my code 44?
appreciate the help fellas ! Thanks
#14
from tanks 1 new front tank, 1 new rear tank pump.
no work to diverter
new main pump
new fuel filter
new pump pressure regulator
new pump relay
no work to injectors ...yet
#15
have you checked your vacuum solenoids? The TAB/TAD as I understand are used to regulate proper vacuum per condition.
Have a mechanical tank valve/reservoir? Some of them can be cleaned, others need replacing. $200 part. But for $20 you can buy chunks of fuel line to bypass the valve/reservoir. This would restrict to only one tank, but will indicate whether the part need replacing/cleaning or isn’t a factor..
Low to begin with, have you checked voltages to pumps? If the tanks are old, have you considered having them flushed? Have you flushed the fuel lines? Disconnect both ends of each chunk of fuel line and blow compressed air through. Probably gonna want to stick the other end into a gas can or similar container. Check all your ground wires under the hood as welll as
the batt(+) to starter solenoid. Extreme corrosion or loose connections may provide proper continuity until they heat up and expand to open the circuit..
Have a mechanical tank valve/reservoir? Some of them can be cleaned, others need replacing. $200 part. But for $20 you can buy chunks of fuel line to bypass the valve/reservoir. This would restrict to only one tank, but will indicate whether the part need replacing/cleaning or isn’t a factor..
Low to begin with, have you checked voltages to pumps? If the tanks are old, have you considered having them flushed? Have you flushed the fuel lines? Disconnect both ends of each chunk of fuel line and blow compressed air through. Probably gonna want to stick the other end into a gas can or similar container. Check all your ground wires under the hood as welll as
the batt(+) to starter solenoid. Extreme corrosion or loose connections may provide proper continuity until they heat up and expand to open the circuit..
have not checked voltage to pumps but took lines off going to divert or and lots of fuel come out, even without pumps going ?
ive checked and redone every ground and wire I could find as I've been on this project.
when I changed pump yest lots of fuel coming from line into pump.Again no pumps running, man I had gas up to my armpits.