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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 09:35 AM
  #1  
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shock question

I want/need to replace the shocks on my f250 4x4.
I have some KYB Gas-A-Just shocks in my shopping cart that I'm about to buy.
KG5456 & KG5443
This truck is rated over 8500 gvw.
Am I buying the right shocks or should I be looking for something else?
I think I am but thought I'd ask here, maybe learn a thing or two and spare a mistake.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dustyroad
I want/need to replace the shocks on my f250 4x4.
I have some KYB Gas-A-Just shocks in my shopping cart that I'm about to buy.
KG5456 & KG5443
This truck is rated over 8500 gvw.
Am I buying the right shocks or should I be looking for something else?
I think I am but thought I'd ask here, maybe learn a thing or two and spare a mistake.
I consider shocks a consumable item and replace mine every 50,000 miles with tires. They are not that expensive so you can give them a try and if you don't like them you can change them out.

I bought lifetime shocks from my local tire dealer. The shocks are made by Monroe. Every time I buy tires I get new shocks...and they are free. If you are planning on keeping your rig for many miles then the lifetime program may be for you. I have gotten 9 free sets of shocks! but I keep my vehicles rolling for many miles and years.

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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 11:40 AM
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Agree most definitely, they are consumable.
I went and bought them, they were not that expensive as you noted.
If they work; great, if not well not that expensive of a lesson. (plus a rebate makes them cheaper)
My main concern was the rear shocks being able to handle the weight I put on it.
I saw the warranty on the monroes, I must have misread it though because I thought they wouldn't warranty them
under normal wear and tear. I have nothing against them though.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dustyroad
Agree most definitely, they are consumable.
I went and bought them, they were not that expensive as you noted.
If they work; great, if not well not that expensive of a lesson. (plus a rebate makes them cheaper)
My main concern was the rear shocks being able to handle the weight I put on it.
I saw the warranty on the monroes, I must have misread it though because I thought they wouldn't warranty them
under normal wear and tear. I have nothing against them though.
The tire dealer provides the warranty...not Monroe. It's a promo to sell not only shocks but to keep people coming back for tires as well. I said free, but I'm sure it's included in the price of tires. Most people do not keep their rigs for more than shock change or two on average so it's a win win for the tire dealer. Let us know how you like the shocks when you get them on. The promo I read on line sounds good. Shocks don't carry weight they only dampen the up and down movement of the suspension. If you are bouncing up and down after hitting a bump you need to replace them. Getting new shocks with new tires helps the tires wear better too since they are more evenly in contact with the road.

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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 12:19 PM
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More of a bam, our roads are terrible like I'm sure everyone else's.
They are crusty, no idea how old they are. I don't get a float or much of a bounce

I just put on 2 new tires, the other two were basically brand new, not much wear on them compared to the new ones.
So yes new tires. new shocks. 1 suspension item out of the equation.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dustyroad
More of a bam, our roads are terrible like I'm sure everyone else's.
They are crusty, no idea how old they are. I don't get a float or much of a bounce

I just put on 2 new tires, the other two were basically brand new, not much wear on them compared to the new ones.
So yes new tires. new shocks. 1 suspension item out of the equation.

You are in the rust belt. In only a few years shocks are ready for the scrap pile. Hard on every other part of the suspension, brake lines, under carriage, fuel tanks...and everything else. A daily winter driver in the rust belt with the new liquid de-icers they spray on the road may last for about a decade before it's ready for the crusher. And that after several corrosion repairs along the way. More modern rigs may have better staying power in the salt zone but our older classic trucks are no match for it. Your only hope is to coat the entire undercarriage with Fluid Film or other coating. I have even seen where guys use used motor oil sprayed on everything.

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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 01:19 PM
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Yep, the liquid deicer is cancer here.
The truck is pretty solid for it's age, someone took care of it most of its life, at least it looks that way to me.
Definitely seen vehicles newer than this with way more cancer.
It has some spots I need to address. But doesn't look like anything needing major surgery.
It isn't going to be a daily driver but I still plan on fluid filming it since it will be on the roads in the winter.

Funny you mention fuel tanks, they are on the to replace/fix list.
The side one leaks when it's filled and have to go slow to fill it. (hope it's just a loose hose clamp/lock ring and clogged vent)
The rear one is the same but not as bad. It just drips, I thought it was leaking under the strap but once it 7/8-3/4 full
I don't see anymore drips. I'm hoping lock ring on that one as well.
I'm thinking about replacing them with the plastic tanks and all new hardware required for them.$$$
 
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 07:11 PM
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Anyone know who makes the bronco graveyard rear upper shock bracket/mount ?
I plan on replacing mine and I have several options to choose from.
Dorman, APDTY, and another one from AM autoparts that has the best warranty of them all. (10 years)
I'm sure there is an OEM one out there as well but I wasn't looking too hard to find one.
Bronco graveyard is pretty economical but I don't think it comes with the bolts, the other ones do.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 05:05 PM
  #9  
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I bought the APDTY mount, it looked nice, lined up well.
Bronco graveyard is a dorman for a fyi and comes with the bolts.
Job wasn't bad at all, ground down the rivets, used a punch to knock them out.
One was a little stubborn so I drilled into them a little so my punch wouldn't bounce around.
Used a little MAP gas on it but I really don't think that was necessary. The other ones came out without heat.
Sprayed some rustoleum primer/black paint on the fresh steel and mounted the new mount.
Now for the bad.. the frame is rusted much worst than I thought. I looked under it when I bought it, but I should have crawled under it.
I would have spotted that rotted mount for one. Good ole rustbelt action..
As I was knocking the rivets out and chunk of rust let loose and now I have a new hole in the frame..
I'm pretty disappointed with that and when I fluid film it I hope it will slow down that cancer.
Going have to spend a day under there eating rust knock it down some before I film it though.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dustyroad
Good ole rustbelt action..
As I was knocking the rivets out and chunk of rust let loose and now I have a new hole in the frame..
I'm pretty disappointed with that and when I fluid film it I hope it will slow down that cancer.
Going have to spend a day under there eating rust knock it down some before I film it though.
With Fluid film you don't have to go too crazy knocking off rust as it will penetrate through the rust to the bare metal. Let it do some of the work for you. No need to wire wheel or wire brush too much. Yes it will take a little more fluid film if the rust is thick or layered. If it's too far gone you might have to make repairs as you already know. Once the Fluid film has done the work you can remove the loose rust more easily and a lot of it will fall off by itself, especially if you can drive the truck.

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