Brake bleeding methods
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 197
Likes: 3
Pressure bleeders are nice, i thought about buying one and using the old master cylinder lid to seal in the pressure. But i decided it was more than i wanted to get into. When i start bleeding the breaks on ABS systems I’ll likely lean towards that route.
Im intrigued by the Speed Bleeder design mentioned in post 12. Very cost effective and easy to install. Anyone have experience with them?
Im intrigued by the Speed Bleeder design mentioned in post 12. Very cost effective and easy to install. Anyone have experience with them?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 197
Likes: 3
I just want to close out this thread
I installed speed bleeders on all 4 calipers. They were the sweetest thing. I still had ppl helping me, but it made the whole process that much easier. They really should be how all bleeder screws are made. I did struggle a bit to get vice grips to hold the proportioning valve open for me. Ended up just holding it open while someone else pressed the brakes. They used to make a fancy clip for this purpose. But they literally don’t exist anymore(dang shame).... Dorman 12701 fit all 4 calipers on my 77 f150 in case anyone else is interested. It allowed me to enjoy the job a bit more, and im pretty sure its going to lead to me flushing my brakes more often.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 197
Likes: 3
I wont say it doesnt. But brake fluid draws moisture. The fact that i’d need to leave my bleeder screw open long enough for gravity to take effect is a passive way of getting a job done. No disrespect to any gravity bleed crowds.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 3
From: S. Mississippi
The only way I've ever done it and will ever do it is with a helper.
My helper sits in the truck and gets the easy job.
I crack open the bleeder as I shout out commands (up or down to indicate pedal travel). I have always had good results using this method and can usually get a really good amount of pressure built up in the system in addition to no air bubbles.
I've never had good luck with any other method.
My helper sits in the truck and gets the easy job.
I crack open the bleeder as I shout out commands (up or down to indicate pedal travel). I have always had good results using this method and can usually get a really good amount of pressure built up in the system in addition to no air bubbles.
I've never had good luck with any other method.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,014
Likes: 35
From: Semper Fi tell I die!
when you open the bottle of brake fluid it can absorb moisture just as likely, or pour it from bottle to master to top it off. its not like your leaving it open for days.
Tuned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 301
Likes: 40
From: East Tennessee
Russell has a number of products in a category they call "Speed Bleeder" that might be worthy of a look/see. I have no experience with it but it looked interesting. Here is a Summit search that shows most of these options.
For me, the Russell Speed Bleeders were worth the ~$21 they cost. I think the biggest part of the problem was probably the cheap bleeders that came with my new wheel cylinders. Must have been sucking in air despite my best efforts.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Speed bleeders work great and their chief attribute may be in the way they help promote marital or familial bliss. Gravity bleed works really well for simple braking systems. It generally takes years for brake fluid to absorb enough moisture to cause trouble, but it's supposed to absorb moisture, if it didn't, the brake fluid would freeze in the winter and/or boil in the summer, neither of which is any good for braking. Fluids were chosen carefully, it isn't some kind of blind spot of the engineers.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 28
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 80
Likes: 9
@fordrealdrive Good evening,
sorry to revive old thread. I'm trying to bleed my 1982 C700, it has the single circuit HydroVac system. How did you successfully bleed your F600's system? I replaced the master and booster on mine, as well as a few solid and flexible lines, and after 12 quarts of fluid, it still takes 3 pedals until I have any brakes. Any tips from your experience?
sorry to revive old thread. I'm trying to bleed my 1982 C700, it has the single circuit HydroVac system. How did you successfully bleed your F600's system? I replaced the master and booster on mine, as well as a few solid and flexible lines, and after 12 quarts of fluid, it still takes 3 pedals until I have any brakes. Any tips from your experience?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,837
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
I've used the two person "pump up ... hold it ... again ... " method for most of 50+ years, but if changing fluid out, It works about 100% too.
I like the compressor operated vacuum bleeder with a jar on top of the master to let new fluid in as old is pulled out through the caliper / wheel cylinder end. It pulls fast, so stop and check the fill bottle often. The vacuum route depends a lot on a good seal at the bleeder valve. It works OK with just one person as they control vacuum and are opening & shutting bleeder valves while laying on the ground.
I also made and have used a pressure type based on a garden sprayer. If I can get the sprayer leak proof on the master cylinder, it's good enough but it's best with two people ... one monitoring the pressure end ... and another opening and shutting bleeder valves..
On my bikes, the Mighty Vac hand pump worked super for brakes and clutch.
I've also tried speed bleeders and a jar, they worked too.
I have a hose with a spring loaded ball valve but just never had great luck with that though.
I like the compressor operated vacuum bleeder with a jar on top of the master to let new fluid in as old is pulled out through the caliper / wheel cylinder end. It pulls fast, so stop and check the fill bottle often. The vacuum route depends a lot on a good seal at the bleeder valve. It works OK with just one person as they control vacuum and are opening & shutting bleeder valves while laying on the ground.
I also made and have used a pressure type based on a garden sprayer. If I can get the sprayer leak proof on the master cylinder, it's good enough but it's best with two people ... one monitoring the pressure end ... and another opening and shutting bleeder valves..
On my bikes, the Mighty Vac hand pump worked super for brakes and clutch.
I've also tried speed bleeders and a jar, they worked too.
I have a hose with a spring loaded ball valve but just never had great luck with that though.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
Likes: 84
From: Las Vegas
Im about to install a new master cylinder on my truck and was wondering about the handy vacuum bleeders that hook to the air compressor. Anyone bleed their breaks using that or a hand pump to pull the air out of each caliper? Curious about the experience and if you were able to get all the air out of the system.
I bench bled the master cylinder, with a little plastic nipple and hose kit.
I also wanted to flush the lines out completely, so I did get a helper.
Funny thing is, no matter how many times I have done it, I still have to look up which line to flush out first. I never remember if you start with the nearest wheel, or the furthest wheel, from the master cylinder. Im an idiot. Even though I just did it, I cant remember. I should stop smoking pot.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,217
Likes: 506
From: Pa.
Hey Mike, When does hunting season end down in the delta. The herd up here is healthy and stout. Saw lots of big bucks this fall.