I'm going to tackle all 4 ball joints on my 2011 e150 this weekend. I'm a competent driveway mechanic but this will be a pretty big job by my standards and have never done ball joints before.

I have a garage space rented with lift...also a first for me. I've read all I could find in preparation and watched several YouTube videos. Among them this one seems very well done and is how I plan to do it.

https://youtu.be/wSS6AC3RYt4

Any tips or tricks?

I also most likely will not get an alignment for 2 weeks or so until I get new tires.

 

Nice video---a few things though.......

-Start immediately soaking any threaded fasteners with PB Blaster or other quality penetrating fluid---I'm sure you already know WD-40 is NOT for that use. Repeat once or twice daily.

-Use the proper tools to separate the tie rod ends from the knuckle---if you damage the boots they're difficult to replace without buying a whole new end.

-Follow the advice about hanging the caliper and carefully disconnecting the ABS sensors up front.

-I'm assuming you have access to a ball joint press? I've seen this done with hand tools but that was in a heavy duty truck suspension shop where the guys have a ton of experience with that process. Its not for the timid.

-Using a small chisel mark both the alignment bushing and knuckle so you can keep the current alignment spec's intact until its alignment with gauges etc.

-I kinda like this guy's idea of leaving the rotor intact--saves a lot of work however now would be a good time to repack or replace the bearings if they're suspect. Also a good time to replace rotors and pads if those are in need too.

-I personally use Moog stuff from Amazon as its just about the best there is----I've used that brand on three different E-Series and they've all lasted well over 100K miles without issue.

-Check and double check all bolts, nuts and Cotter keys, lube all available parts with a good grade chassis grease--the Lucas red "sticky" stuff is very good for this but any brand specifically for chassis lube should be fine too.

-Test drive about 50 miles or so even if that takes a few trips and re-check everything once again.

If you already know most of this good on ya----if not hope its somewhat helpful.

Let us know how this goes---just be prepared up front for a lot of hard work and heavy lifting---these parts don't wanna move and ain't light either.

 

Thanks for the input JWA, I appreciate it!

Good call on penetrating oil now. I live in the salt free PNW but will definitely get a preliminary spray on at least those big 1-1/8" nuts now.

Are you saying smacking the tire rod joint to release it is not good practice? I've never done it that way before but after watching the videos understand why it works and looks like good technique. I've always used a pickle fork but know for sure that kills the boot.

The rental garage has "full access to a mechanics tool chest" for $5 an hour. I had planned on using a press kit from the auto store borrow program but that is the most intimidating part honestly. Getting it all apart and finding the auto store press kit is either junk or doesn't have the right adapters. That seems to be the most common hurdle reading up on dyi'ers. I talked to the guy that runs the rental garage (sounds like a great and honest guy) about this and he says he has two professional kits and not to worry about it. I'm sure he has a tire rod end puller too if I need.

So my van has 113k, I've owned it for about 1500 miles. The 100k service was done and states the wheel bearings seals were replaced and bearings repacked in the paperwork I received with the van. I actually checked the driver side wheel bearing which lead me to discover the lower ball joint is toast. The bearings and grease look new however. This is one of the reasons why l like the idea of leaving the rotor on. I don't have an adapter to set the whole thing on like in the video. I was planning on simply setting it in my wheel but not sure of this allows enough clearance to replace the the ball joints or not?

Moog problem solvers from Amazon is what I have & figure I'll save roughly $800 doing it myself. Pads are good but rotors are suspect. I think I'll tackle all 4 and get a good look at the caliper slides etc another time.

Again this is a big job for me so just wanted to follow up on your post with more detail in the event of any more advice.
Thanks again.

 

If there's a problem with whacking the knuckle to release the tie rod end stud what if that doesn't do the job? If a couple hits dislodge it fine--if not use something like this:
AutoZone will loan you one---buy your PB Blaster there at the time you're borrowing their tools..

Pickle forks are great removing damaged parts---that type above save the boots.

I think we pay just about half for Moog stuff through Amazon instead of buying locally, at least that's how it's worked out for me.

I don't blame you a bit for leaving the rotors installed if that's possible---it makes a ton of sense especially if you're confident they're in good shape now.

Good luck with this---I'm sure you'll do very well BigJC!

 

Gotcha, and good point.
Honestly hadn't considered it may not work. Considering it's probably original and 8 years old plan B would be wise.

 

Success!

Sure enough the press kit(s) did not have the right adapters to remove/install the ball joints. The owner of the rental garage was able to fab a couple fittings up quick enough though.

Leaving the rotors on worked just fine and I used my wheel as a base to work from. With the rotor on it's difficult to get the upper ball joint straight on with threaded peice of the c-clamp but still drove it in.

Also lifting the assembly up with rotor attached into place and starting the nut was a hurculean effort!

A shot of the garage. First time using a lift and worth every penny!



I've a had a knock at start up and suspected either broken exhaust manifold studs or a loose spark plug. Whelp, found 2 broken studs on the rear passenger cylinder. Shot of the upper


With that threaded hole in the head right there I had the shop owner help me fab up a peice of steel to clamp down on the manifold.

Preliminarily this seems to have worked very well.
Does anyone see a problem with this "fix"? Either cracking the head or warping the manifold?

All in I spent 4 hours there and it cost me $100. A bargain as far I am concerned and definitely will use this place again, great experience.

Now the not so good...there is still a knock in my front end. The ball joint clanking around on every bump is gone and the steering much more precise but there is still a knock that kind of reverberates to both sides on little pot holes and stuff. Not sure what it is, everything looked pretty solid. I may start a separate thread on both that & my exhaust fix in the future.

 

Good work---agreed the cost of the lift rental was VERY much worth it.

Check your front sway bar and shock attachments for that clunking sound. I'm not sure if the '11 E-Series still have the sway bar mounting to the I-Beams as on the pre-'08's but that was a very common problem for that set up. If its the I-Beam bushings those are somewhat easily replaced but your rental shop owner would be a good source of improvised tooling to install them. There are threads here detailing this but I could contribute something helpful if needed. Also replacing the bushings with urethane pieces is far easier, more long lived and is relatively easier than using new factory style bushings.

I don't think your exhaust fix will be a problem but it does look as though the threaded stud hole is clear and a new stud could be used? If the original stud has broken off its a bear removing the remaining bits---as long as your current fix works don't change it.

Glad this went well---feels good to have it done I'm sure!

 

So I've lived with the new ball joints and remaining clunking for a bit. I've been been under the van twice now and gave everything a good tug and once over. All the steering linkages, I-beam axle pivot bushings, control arm bushings, and sway bar end links seem in good condition. The only thing I'm seeing as remotely worn is the sway bar mounting bushings

but am unsure what they're supposed to look like?
Are they supposed to lock the sway bar in place or allow it shift left/right? I can see daylight through both of mine and the sway bar rocks left/right about 2.5".

Anyway I've ordered new Moog sway bar mount bushings and end links, just not very confident that's my problem.

I suspect it may be my wheel bearings. I tightened both of them up using the procedure I've found here with a finish of 17inch lbs. That seemed to lessen the clunking a touch, I don't know. They seem to still have a bit of play in them. I also get a slight steering wheel shimmy at about 65mph I discovered today... but I need new tires and haven't had an alignment since replacing the ball joints. Would like to replace & sort out my clunking first.

Any thoughts on the sway bar bushings or otherwise?

 

Before I'd worry about sway bar bushings I'd first check and/or replace the wheel bearings, new tires and a good alignment. If the clunking is related to wheel bearings you're wasting your time and money and potentially creating damage to the spindles or rotors.

When does this clunking happen? During straight line driving or when turning?

Not sure how the sway bar could or would be movable upwards of 2" + left-to-right but if that's the case it would seem the end links are at issue. The bushings you show aren't horrible, their function is to simply hold the sway bar in a way it can pivot and transfer one side of the suspensions movement to the opposite wheel. The wear you show shouldn't cause the noises you're hearing---are the shocks worn out or firmly attached to their mounting points?

 

The shocks are new Bilsteins and they are tight.

I get the clunking at parking speeds, when turning or turning/braking and it's telegraphed through the steering wheel. Like the steering wheel goes slack and recatches as if there was something loose. The end links are little ball joints and they seem tight. They are maybe 5" long so could see some left/right pivot possible in the design?

I'm going to change at least the sway bar mounting bushings pictured because they are cheap and easy. If there is no play in the end links when I have those off I'll return them.

Hopefully no damage to the spindles that would suck! They tire spins smoothly and no highway growl or anything. If the bushings have zero affect I will change the rotors and bearings as I think they need it anyway. Pretty sure both are original at 114k and at least one is very slightly not true.

 

At that mileage carefully inspecting the rotors with an eye toward almost-certain replacement is a good idea. Personally I'd use NAPA or Ford/Motorcraft OEM stuff---that's just me though. I'm not budget conscious and hate doing a job again in too short a time.

Your clunking could be very well related to a worn part of two that catch and release as they no longer fit together as designed. I'm assuming you've lubed the tie rod ends---I've noticed my own give a slightly different steering wheel feel when I've let them run a bit low of lube.

Crawl underneath with a HIGHLY TRUSTED friend/wife/SO inside engine running so they can turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock, you feeling and watching the steering parts while they move. Since this happens when parked it will probably be easy to see where the sound comes from. Needless to say I hope keep your hands etc away from the moving engine bits---its too easy to get distracted and forget all the rotating parts so close to the front end suspension bits: