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I have been thinking about upgrading the sound quality in my truck. I have read some of the threads in relation to audio upgrades and I am lost. I know next to nothing when it comes to amps and speakers. My experience, when it comes to audio, is upgrading a couple head units purchased from crutchfield. This was usually done in a Crown Vic. I have a 2019 F-250 XLT with Sync 3. I do not have the Sony system with the factory amp. I am not looking for teeth rattling sound just something that isn't so tinny sounding. Going to crutchfield it recommends iDatalink Maestro AR, but I'm not sure if I need this since I don't have a factory amp. Most YouTube videos also deal with trucks with the factory amp so that was also a dead end. I know I have a lot more research to do since most of the terms I keep seeing I have no idea what they mean, i.e. gain, crossover, ohms. I am wondering if just upgrading the speakers would help? Any advice or direction that can be provided would help. Thanks in advance.
Have you adjusted your sound? The driver, rear seats and all seats setting is confusing. The last three trucks I have done subs on with the base sync 3 actually sound better when rear seats are selected because it doesn't limit the bass as much.
Read the CAR AUDIO GUYS thread. There is alot of information on there. You can see the “no cut” harness and amp i used. It is a cheap and easy upgrade that makes a noticable differance even with OEM HU and speakers. If u want to go deeper the info is there as well. Coverage on adding DSP’s, amps, speakers, and subs. There is also information about using forscan to make adjustments to the ACM. It all pertains to upgrading the non amplified system.
Have you adjusted your sound? The driver, rear seats and all seats setting is confusing. The last three trucks I have done subs on with the base sync 3 actually sound better when rear seats are selected because it doesn't limit the bass as much.
My radio doesn't have the option for rear seats. It just has driver and all seats.
Read the CAR AUDIO GUYS thread. There is alot of information on there. You can see the “no cut” harness and amp i used. It is a cheap and easy upgrade that makes a noticable differance even with OEM HU and speakers. If u want to go deeper the info is there as well. Coverage on adding DSP’s, amps, speakers, and subs. There is also information about using forscan to make adjustments to the ACM. It all pertains to upgrading the non amplified system.
I will. There is a lot of information in there to sift through.
My 2017 is equipped much the same. I found that selecting "all positions" and adjusting the treble/bass made it sound pretty good until you turn it up to about 11-12 when the distortion from the head unit raises it's ugly head.
Replacement speakers will likely help the sound, but they need to have high sensitivity or the factory head unit will distort even more. Honestly, I feel like you should plan on an amp for a second step. You will need the Parrot for-11ck harness and possibly some Forscan tweaks to make this happen.
I have been thinking about upgrading the sound quality in my truck. I have read some of the threads in relation to audio upgrades and I am lost. I know next to nothing when it comes to amps and speakers. My experience, when it comes to audio, is upgrading a couple head units purchased from crutchfield. This was usually done in a Crown Vic. I have a 2019 F-250 XLT with Sync 3. I do not have the Sony system with the factory amp. I am not looking for teeth rattling sound just something that isn't so tinny sounding. Going to crutchfield it recommends iDatalink Maestro AR, but I'm not sure if I need this since I don't have a factory amp. Most YouTube videos also deal with trucks with the factory amp so that was also a dead end. I know I have a lot more research to do since most of the terms I keep seeing I have no idea what they mean, i.e. gain, crossover, ohms. I am wondering if just upgrading the speakers would help? Any advice or direction that can be provided would help. Thanks in advance.
A set of good replacement door speakers (and the little one in the dash) would do you wonders without the hassle (or expense) of replacing the factory radio and center stack...
Honestly, I feel like you should plan on an amp for a second step. You will need the Parrot for-11ck harness and possibly some Forscan tweaks to make this happen.
I agree with this suggestion. I've been down the replacement speaker route. Returned them....as they sounded worse and they were decent speakers (Polk, Alpine, Rockfords). I'm really considering the Kicker KEY 180.4 along with the plug and pray harness.
the output line converter is very easy for adding an amp. Just tap rear speaker wires and run rcas to the amp. Gets even easier if you get a sub/amp box that will fit behind the seat. t-connectors are the way to go when splicing into factory wires
If your not adding an amp to the front speakers a coaxial with low watt power range will sound better then factory but will sound overpowering
(mids and highs) and you will eventually add the sub. The sub amp install gets even easier if you get a small setup and tap power from your converter under the seat. To answer your question simply adding door speakers will not make you happy. I thought the same thing getting started.
Last edited by mudArucker; Apr 4, 2019 at 08:12 AM.
Reason: adding
the output line converter is very easy for adding an amp. Just tap rear speaker wires and run rcas to the amp. Gets even easier if you get a sub/amp box that will fit behind the seat.
t-connectors are the way to go when splicing into factory wires
If your not adding an amp to the front speakers a coaxial with low watt power range will sound better then factory but will sound overpowering
(mids and highs) and you will eventually add the sub. The sub amp install gets even easier if you get a small setup and tap power from your converter under the seat. To answer your question simply adding door speakers will not make you happy. I thought the same thing getting started.
I would consider this the third step. Crutchfield told me the rear speakers get a full range signal, so this could work, but I would recommend running a dedicated set of power cables as the inverter is powered by a puny 10 ga wire. Keep in mind that if you think you want a sub, you should plan ahead and either get an amp that can drive the entire system or a pair of amps (but we are starting to get pretty complicated).
I would consider this the third step. Crutchfield told me the rear speakers get a full range signal, so this could work, but I would recommend running a dedicated set of power cables as the inverter is powered by a puny 10 ga wire. Keep in mind that if you think you want a sub, you should plan ahead and either get an amp that can drive the entire system or a pair of amps (but we are starting to get pretty complicated).
I ran power from my battery for my 500w jl amp but have seen people on here use the inverter to power smaller amps. This is much deeper then the OP idea of swapping door speakers but is what will happen if he does imo
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