Wheres the reps? ��

i think the 460 in the picture makes it legal

 

water pump #3 leaking out front seal/ weephole

Thinking of trying a reman instead of new chinajunk

 

So I have had a hell of a time with this F-150. I'm starting to realize when you go from smaller cars/trucks to larger vehicles you need new BIGGER tools and so on. I'm not a photo taker since it distracts me from the job I'm doing. I plan on lifting the motor this weekend on the last "warm" weekend here while it'll be in the 40's. This past weekend when disconnecting the starter one of the bolt holes was missing half the mounting hole. Glad I caught it when I did because I am now needing to replace new parts (starter, radiator upper and lower hose's). I also decided to disconnect the battery and trickle charge it in the garage for this weekend, the battery carrier was so rusted and nasty I'm cleaning that entire front corner up and adding that black de-rust spray to it.

I'm hoping when I lift the motor this weekend and have it on blocks to get the Gasket off, along with the whole pan to clean up and really get a good seal when it goes back on. Any tips for getting a good seal? I just bought this truck and am going to be adding about 6k in miles a year, so I'm hoping if I can get this changed and sealed well, I wont need to get into the pan for a couple years (assuming nothing else breaks or is having issues later down the road).

Cheers

 

I appreciate where you are coming from.

As to your question on getting a good seal, use the felpro 1 piece silicone gasket. clean both surfaces and follow torque procedure in a shop manual, chiltons etc. it does not take much to overtorque and squeeze the gasket out the side.

While in there check out the oilpump pickup screen, if its full its likely from your fiberglass timing gear deteriorating and you might want to think about doing that.

 

So. I am in a pickle. I can't pull the engine because I don't have a picker (yet). This weekend I was able to get the engine up and sitting on 1 inch blocks where the insulators are on the motor mounts. Now I crawled under and cleaned the crap off all the bolts to the pan, pulled them all and I have no where near enough room to pull the pan all the way out. I have done a lot of searching on FTE and even youtube for a better answer of my question. So I'll ask here.

Q: How high DO I need to lift the engine to get the pan out all the way for clearance? Will I need to remove the Oil pick up tube in order for the pan to drop? (I do have the window washer pump all unbolted so the EGR doesn't jam into it when lifting.

Whats odd is in my hanes book they just say to lift an inch, but this seems like I may need to go up 3 inches or 4. The more I am looking into this. I may need to replace the pan itself if the lip/block flange is all damaged. It still hasn't snowed here in the valley. Carheart and whiskey is helping me stay warm working on this lol.

Also I may need to take photos of some things to document. It just seems like I have now turned this 1 job into many... however I am having fun

 

Um pretty sure your supposed to reach inside the pan and pull the pickup tube off and possibly pump to be able to snake the pan out
that what makes it such a pita getting the new gasket in even with the felpro corner clips

 

So turns out my new stant rad cap was the problem. It was the correct 13 psi, but defective. Went old school and water pump and heater core not wetting floor anymore(happened just recently, and core was less than year old).
went ahead and replaced core with a motorcraft since i thought the seams may have been compromised.

i think the whole problem was the system being over pressurized, id like to know how much, but who knows. You could still squeeze the hoses when at op temp.