im trying to add some lift blocks and i need to remove the leaf springs on my 96 ranger. i got the u-bolts removed without a problem, but the problem i encountered is the bolts holding the springs onto the axel. i had it soaking in wd-40 for a ew minutes, nothing, soaked for 10min, nothing. i tried a breaker bar, nothing. someone help me please.

 

WD-40 is not the best thing for rusted bolts, get some LW or PB.

 

i read that heat would also help, what different tools would be most suitable, if the LW or PB doesnt work? what does LW and PB stand for, that way i can go down to the discount auto parts store and get one.

Also, sinse im adding a rear lift to the back, whats the cheapest/easiest was i can go about lifting the front?
thanks for all the help BTW.

 

Liquid wrench type products.

Sorry I'm not into lifts but I'm sure someone will help with that.

 

Please pardon me if I am misreading or not understanding, but your message has frightened me for your safety:

As I understand it the u-bolts have been removed, but you perceive bolts (or a bolt?) still holding the spring to the axle that needs to be removed.

I think there is a distinct possibility you are actually trying to loosen the bolt that holds the spring pack(s) together.

Please - BE CAREFUL!

*If* that is the case, you really need to get some clamps - very powerful clamps - on those springs before you even TRY to turn the bolt going down through the center of the spring pack. Failure to do so could result in serious, possibly even fatal, injury.

FWIW (and again, sorry if I'm just not understanding you clearly),
Mike.

 

yeah, im adding blocks, which need to be placed between the axel and the leafs, and that bolt (not the u-bolts, im not sure what the correct term for this bolt is called though) is holding the leafs onto the axel. i was planning on soaking it for a very long time with wd-40, lw, pb etc., then try to loosen it up with a breaker bar and if need be get some heat onto the bolt.

that is just to loosen it, before i actually removed it, i was going to loosen the leaves at the shackles, to add flexability and relieve any tension. are clamps all that neccessary? if so what clamps woulf you recomend? also, when i finally get this bolt out (sooner or later, that sob is comin out, let me tell ya) and add these blocks under them, will i be able to line the holes on the spring leaves back up with one another?
thanks again.

 

Removing the weight from the springs and unbolting the shackles is the proper thing to do before removing that bolt down through the center of the spring.

~However~

The individual leafs natural arch is far far greater than the sum of what you see with the spring pack bolted together.

In other words; all bolted together the springs form an arch that is not nearly as great as the arch formed by each individual leaf. Yea, that means bolting them together flattens them out (or bows them up) *greatly*.

Thus, when that center bolt is removed the springs will arch back to their natural shape - they are under extreme tension - whether the spring is still under the vehicle, or laying out in the yard beside the driveway.

~If~ that center bolt broke (or stripped) those springs would re-arch to their natural shape with *explosive* force. Enough force to EASILY crush (or amputate) a hand, arm, foot, leg - whatever they come in contact with.

I had long add-a-leafs added just a couple of weeks ago and the mechanic used a ball joint press very near the bolt, and 4 - 6" cast iron c-clamps. He still had one heck of a time releasing and recompressing them, especially after adding that overload leaf.

In closing, I feel the need to say that I am NOT trying to discourage you from doing this job - it ain't that hard to do ~at all~, but you need to be aware that you are working on something that can hurt/maime/kill you WITH NO ADVANCE WARNING if not done properly. (sorry for shouting but I have a couple of maimed body parts myself - I know what it feels like).

HTH,
Mike.

 

Make sure you have c-clamps on the spring pack. That way none will bounce out. Since you are installing lift blocks then most likely you will need longer bolts and possible longer U bolts. Cut the bolts off and make it easy on yourself and use new hardware.

 

I'm a little confused here. As I recall, when I replaced the rear springs on my '99, I disconnected the spring at both ends, removed the Ubolts and shock bolts at the axle and pulled the springs. What bolts connecting the axle to the spring are we talking about?
Dono

 

Rear spring has 1 U bolt holding the spring pack to the axle and there is 1 straight bolt through the middle of the spring pack that holds the spring pack together but the head of that bolt only sits on top of the axle to help keep the pack centered. You have to remove the U and the straight bolt to install the block

 

After thinking about it I don't think you have to undo the centering pin bolt. The block should have a hole that the pin head goes into and the block should have a part that goes into the axle mount and then the new longer U's clamp the block between the axle mount and the spring pack.

 

has anyone ever removed the factory 4x4 rear block? ive thought about doing that to level out the truck, it seems to sit 2" higher in the rear. all i would really need would be 2wd u-bolts and 2wd shocks as far as can tell. not going to mess with the original spring pack but do plan on adding coil helper springs between frame and axle tube.

 

Installing a 3” block and 2” add a leaf on 99 ford ranger.. This is where I ran into some trouble installing my 5.5” fabtech kit….Separating the leafs springs from the rear axle. I was turning the center pin only to find out that the center pin is not connected to the rear axle. The leafs springs and rear axle are rusted together. I took a good sledge hammer to separate the two. Remember ! Support the rear of the truck with jack stands. Then put a 2 ton jack under the rear axle to provide slow adjustments, making sure not to over extend anything… It’s been awhile - this should work.. If you have access to a fork lift - use it - I did! Worked nice because your able to control the height that you need. Plan on have an assortment of c-clamps, wood blocks, extra long u-bolts, a new center pin. Please be very careful !