I'm just here to say that buying used parts off of Craigslist is probably not the best idea. Hope it works out for you though.

 

Certain parts I would never buy used. eBay, Craig's List, junk yard, whatever. Used gears are just asking for trouble. Does anyone really need to explain why? Because I've got used brake pads, spark plugs, air filters, oil filters, wiper blades......all for sale, if you'll buy them. When I change my oil at 5,000 miles, you can buy it used, and it should be good for at least 5,000 more miles since everyone is running 10,000 mile oil changes.

You could buy used body parts, like the entire front end with fenders, hood, bumpers.....if that truck was only rear ended. I would buy used rearview mirrors, window cranks, maybe even a glove box door. Call me pessimistic. I wouldn't buy a used transmission or a used engine either.

 

It's just a calculated risk, that's all. I can't see much of the gear contact surfaces, but the carrier bearings don't look like they're very happy. I'd pass.

 

As I drive around town, there are still shops which advertise "USED TIRES". Only reason being that someone is actually buying them. A lot of people are buying used tires. Otherwise, those shops would not be in business. Even though most of us buy into the wisdom of not just buying new tires, but also checking the production code date to be sure that we are not buying old tires which have sat in a warehouse for 10 years.

 

I agree that the carrier bearings are either fairly greasy still or they look like they're starting to have issues.

Picture 4 shows something gritty-looking on the bearing that's facing us, so I'm left wondering how much more grit they've had to deal with. Is it lint, paper particles, dirt, metal shavings, or dandruff? I don't know, but it's probably not good.

Picture 6 shows a nick in one of the teeth at about the 10:30 position. Is that from installation or extraction or chunks of metal floating around in the oil? I don't know but it's probably not good.

That having been said, someone will eventually buy this stuff and probably use it for a while successfully. The question is when and how does it fail and are they willing to accept the outcome?

My advice: If you really want or need that extra ~15% reduction and you aren't intending to use the vehicle on cross-country drives and you're willing to restore these to good working order or willing to repair these if they fail then heck go for it. If not then skip. If you really want that 4.10 with less risk then I found this for $154.99 after ten seconds with Google: https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-rac...SABEgJ2UPD_BwE

New with warranty. I'm sure there are more deals out there.

 

Dont listen to Ludwig Van Beethoven, buy the thing. Then go into the Summit catalog and buy the rebuild kit for the Trac-Lock for $120, and the Ford Motorsport 4.10s for $167. It'll still be a great deal.

R.