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I always replace axle pivot and radius arm bushings at the same time just to call it done. Also after dropping the I beam down you can use a floor jack to move the entire suspension on that side forward and replace the radius arm bushing. Don't see any reason to remove the rivets in the bracket etc.
I was planning of dropping the axle and have the pivot nut removed already. I really don't mind removing the rivets but I don't plan on ever doing this to the truck again. If I have an issue I will get out the grinder. Thanks again yardbird and Andy. Sandy
It sure does make it easy to do again if you need to if you go ahead and get rid of the rivets and install the bolts. I have had to do mine several times, and am glad I had the rivets removed. One time I had to do them within a month of a new install due to bad parts. You never know.
These are the parts installed left to right on arm in the back of the bracket. Is that the metal cup you are talking about?
No. I was referring to the part in post #4 that yardbird has an arrow point toward. That goes on first then the large bushing that goes through the bracket. Install the arm through the bracket then, if my memory is correct, the plastic ring followed by the other bushing, flat washer and finally the nut. On the passenger side there is a small heat shied which is is shown in the middle of your picture. I believe that goes on before the flat washer.
No. I was referring to the part in post #4 that yardbird has an arrow point toward. That goes on first then the large bushing that goes through the bracket. Install the arm through the bracket then, if my memory is correct, the plastic ring followed by the other bushing, flat washer and finally the nut. On the passenger side there is a small heat shied which is is shown in the middle of your picture. I believe that goes on before the flat washer.
Yes on the heat shield. The exhaust is very close to the bushings. The driver side does not have one. I am working on the passenger side and have the caliper removed and the shock and coil springs disconnected from the top. I have removed the axle pivot nut and bolt. In lowering and raising the axle I have plenty of distance but the axle will not drop from the pivot section. I do have a stand on the driver axle and one on the passenger frame rail. What do I need to do to get the axle to drop from the pivot section? Nothing will move to remove the radius arm out of the bracket the way it is. The wheel on driver side is still on the ground. Sandy
May have to put a pry bar between the cross member and the axle half, to pry the axle free/down. Reinstallation may require a jack or hammer in that case. I have a 4x4, so slightly different, and the bushing inner sleeve is tight in the cross member but not to the extent you're describing.
May have to put a pry bar between the cross member and the axle half, to pry the axle free/down. Reinstallation may require a jack or hammer in that case. I have a 4x4, so slightly different, and the bushing inner sleeve is tight in the cross member but not to the extent you're describing.
Thanks, I got it our and after trying to move the front end forward I noticed the front sway bar seemed to be stopping it. I disconnected it on both sides and still having an issue getting the radius arm out of the bracket. It has moved some but not enough. I see nothing stopping the front end to come forward some. Two things I can think of that might prevent it from moving better is. 1. I have the hub and axle lowered and wondering if it should be more level to slide the front back. 2. Could the driver side being on the ground cause the passenger side not to come forward.? Sandy
If the spring is still pushing the beam down, even with the top retainer clip removed, the radius arm may not want to come out of the bracket since it's at a sharp angle. The driver side shouldn't effect this. Removing the spring from the beam should make this easier, or even just loosening it so it isn't held tight to the beam. Alternatively, just get aggressive with it. But then it's hard to reassemble anyway, so I'd loosen the spring (IIRC 1 1/16" nut, inside the coil).
If the spring is still pushing the beam down, even with the top retainer clip removed, the radius arm may not want to come out of the bracket since it's at a sharp angle. The driver side shouldn't effect this. Removing the spring from the beam should make this easier, or even just loosening it so it isn't held tight to the beam. Alternatively, just get aggressive with it. But then it's hard to reassemble anyway, so I'd loosen the spring (IIRC 1 1/16" nut, inside the coil).
The coil is out of the top but I am going to remove it anyway to make sure I can get the arm more level for easier removal from the bracket. Will have to do it tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Sandy
I went ahead and removed the coil and raised the radius arm almost level and got aggressive with it. Won't move much. The ONLY thing that I can see that could possibly be stopping the front from coming forward enough would be the steering linkage. Does it need to be removed or will it help? Sandy
I have usually had the TRE out of the knuckle, since I typically drag the axle out from under the truck for pivot bushing replacement, but it shouldn't be required since the linkage can pivot. I see the nut for the tie rod end (TRE) is off. If you want to pop it out of there, thread the nut back on a couple turns (so it doesn't fall when it breaks free), and smack the front of the knuckle where the TRE is with a mini sledge (almost looks like your index finger is point at the surface you'd want to strike). The hammer strike should be perpendicular to the taper fit of the TRE stud. Do not strike the TRE in any way. It should pop the TRE out without using a pickle fork (sure way to destroy the TRE boot).
Is the beam at the pivot bushing end free from the cross member? If it is, it might just be stubborn. If it isn't, get it free, then try again. It might take some force, preferably use leverage over hammer blows.
Went out to put some leverage on it and stopped babying it and got it out. Just being to easy on it and it was stubborn. The other side will be a piece of cake now that I understand. Thanks again Sandy
Didn't remove the TRE and will replace the castle nut.
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