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Goodmorning guys. I have found that my radiator is leaking and i have oil in my coolant. Is my best option to do new OEM oil cooler or is there a better aftermarket one to replace it with? Id love to be able to afford the BPD remote air to oil cooler but thats just way out of my range at the time. I am considering their radiator.
I havent got a coolant filter yet. I see I should. Probably need to get the oil filter relocator as well at the same time being I could get both from Sinister Diesel for less if I get them together. Any other suggestions or places i may need to source these from? I want to support the ones that support us here bc this place has all the info we would ever need to know of our trucks.
My vote for black oil contamination is replace the leaking oil cooler or gaskets with a Ford dealer oil cooler for most people. The reason oil coolers get clogged is issues with the cooling system.
I’m replacing my 16 year old non-leaking radiator with a Ford radiator, I have no reason to go elsewhere.
Its black oil. On another vehicle i have had a internal tranny cooler go south and take a transmission with it. That would leed me to question next, do i need to bypass the internal coolers in the radiator also and go with external ones
Truck is an 07 Outlaw. Its been well cared for through 270k miles. Hasnt been studded but has a light tune and MBRP straight exhaust and an edge insight to keep everything monitored.
I was expecting the best from Sinister. If its not i need to be going another route. Thank you for all of yalls help
My vote for black oil contamination is replace the leaking oil cooler or gaskets with a Ford dealer oil cooler for most people. The reason oil coolers get clogged is issues with the cooling system.
I’m replacing my 16 year old non-leaking radiator with a Ford radiator, I have no reason to go elsewhere.
I think that most of us agree with Jack. Stay with the OEM radiator and stay with the OEM oil cooler. Just make sure you properly flush the old coolant out and get the correct coolant in (use a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant).
I see your issue is that the oil cooler seems to have already failed. If so, that pretty much dictates a replacement now so you can properly flush the coolant .... then it very well might require another one because flushing the coolant can sometimes plug the oil cooler. Still, I think this is a better approach financially.
I have a BPD radiator and like it well enough, but I have a nagging feeling that it doesn't cool quite as well as the OEM.
I like the relocated oil cooler, but it is just a lot of money! If you have a lot of money, then it is nice. Others like the air-to-oil cooler from BPD, but again, it is just SO EXPENSIVE.
Are you sure it is oil in the coolant? Sometimes soot from a failed EGR cooler or leaking head gaskets can get in the coolant and form what looks like an oily film on top of the coolant. USUALLY oil in the coolant will get emulsified and form a "chocolate shake" looking sludge.
I should have noted that the truck has been deleted so there isnt an Egr system. The oil hasnot turned to a milkshake yet. Just seeing more than id like in the reservoir after a 600 mile trip to pick up an enclosed trailer. I did notice that the radiator is wet on top so i kept it full of water.
I figured that now was the time to clean out all of the system of oil before i take the truck down. I plan to use cascade to do the cleaning and hope it works pretty well.
Im definitely not opposed to using all OEM stuff as its worked for lots of people many of miles. Just thinking outside the box w the BPD stuff and eliminating the coolant and oil mixing and getting better oil filtration in the process is my understanding. Im really not financially ready to do it all but at the time it seems like if i were to do the oil bypass and air to oil cooler, it halfway offsets the BPD.
Thanks again for your helpful insight on this thing!
AS stated you have a ruptured oil cooler. DO NOT USE the DORMAN KIT! I bought one, looked at the cooler, tossed it in the trash and spent the $ on the Ford OEM kit. With a good thorough coolant system flush after the cooler install and a good coolant filter installed and using an NON silica based coolant, you should be golden!
It is ALOT of work, but it was the best thing I EVER DID next to my KC Stage II. I never worry about ECT/EOT spreads and my truck has never run better or stronger.
Originally Posted by RAHRAH
Do i need to bite the bullet and go with bulletproof diesels external cooler?
Thank you all for all of the replies. I have been going about flushing the coolant system and just learning of SCAs. Being that I will always have this truck, i want to lean towards Bulletproofs oil cooler but its cost have me weighing OEM quite heavily. Not ever having to replace the oil cooler again, back to BPD. Decisions decisions. Heck i dont have the money to do either i didnt think.
Yes just wanting to find out how much oil i am getting out of the system. Trying to see if all of the flushing would get my degas bottle to clean up any and maybe that would give me an idea of how clean the rest of the system is. I was needing to use my truck for a trip and haul a light trailer. Im curious if i should throw that thought away until its repaired.
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