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Radiator-wise select on fitting your year and engine---the transmission cooling lines should be a direct fit. I don't know what size the transmission fittings or lines are---sorry.
There is a YouTube video showing an easy fan clutch removal without special tools, nothing more than a pipe wrench and perhaps a rubber mallet. I did buy a bolted pulley removal tool to assist me because my serpentine belt didn't hold well enough to do this job without it. Here's the video I recommend:
As I look at the wrenches supposedly designed for this I'm more comfortable using the pipe wrench. Just my experience mind you.
Because the shroud is attached to parts of the radiator it has to be removed, at least to the point it'll slide backwards towards the block. You might be able to just move it out of the way to replace the radiator---I preferred removing the fan clutch as it gave me more working room
You can avoid spending the extra money on the pulley holding tool but it really does make this job so much easier. You might also borrow or rent one from Advance etc etc.
I tend to opt for Motorcraft parts which can be found online for a fair price, sometimes the dealers have comparable prices too--big shock there. I do use RockAuto to retrieve Motorcraft part numbers then shop online for the best price, adding in shipping costs for a fair comparison. If RA has the best deal I'll buy from them although Amazon has a better and much more user friendly return policy---I'm reading a few too many bad reviews of RA's return actions. Just something to be aware of---many here might chime in they've had nothing but the best of luck so I don't know how bad or good all that is.
For plugs I hope you ordered the Motorcraft SP479's? Boots can be anything "good quality"--I buy the better quality from NAPA but recently bought a full set of Standard Motor Products boots. The Denso brand through Rock Auto is good too---I got my SMP's there.
There's no real need to change the coolant reservoir---they do turn a dingy yellowish color over time but if its not leaking its fine. You might at least check the radiator cap for holding proper pressure. I'll assume the thermostat is okay if it seems to open at the right temps.
Carefully inspecting the upper and lower hoses would be a good idea too. You'll have this apart enough so no time like the present to make sure all is good there. Fair warning though the lower hose is a bit complicated with its EIGHT outlets but not too tough to install.
You should be good with what you have ordered already---I'm guessing the Simple Green is NOT for use in the engine?
I tend to opt for Motorcraft parts which can be found online for a fair price, sometimes the dealers have comparable prices too--big shock there. I do use RockAuto to retrieve Motorcraft part numbers then shop online for the best price, adding in shipping costs for a fair comparison. If RA has the best deal I'll buy from them although Amazon has a better and much more user friendly return policy---I'm reading a few too many bad reviews of RA's return actions. Just something to be aware of---many here might chime in they've had nothing but the best of luck so I don't know how bad or good all that is.
For plugs I hope you ordered the Motorcraft SP479's? Boots can be anything "good quality"--I buy the better quality from NAPA but recently bought a full set of Standard Motor Products boots. The Denso brand through Rock Auto is good too---I got my SMP's there.
There's no real need to change the coolant reservoir---they do turn a dingy yellowish color over time but if its not leaking its fine. You might at least check the radiator cap for holding proper pressure. I'll assume the thermostat is okay if it seems to open at the right temps.
Carefully inspecting the upper and lower hoses would be a good idea too. You'll have this apart enough so no time like the present to make sure all is good there. Fair warning though the lower hose is a bit complicated with its EIGHT outlets but not too tough to install.
You should be good with what you have ordered already---I'm guessing the Simple Green is NOT for use in the engine?
Rock Auto lists SP405 as the plug for 1998 as did Amazon. Is there a difference? Rock Auto says the SP479 is for bifuel. I canceled the order and will wait until I hear back from you. I canceled the order for plugs and boots at Rock Auto will order SP479.
Simple Green is how radiator and diesel mechanics flush the cooling system.
I tried finding the plugs yesterday afternoon in the engine compartment. No luck. I don’t have a manual yet. Ordered FORD Service manual yesterday on eBay.
Coolant capacity is 29 quarts. I ordered Zerx G-05 full strength coolant from Napa on sale at $12.99 gallon.
If you're motivated to add PDL & PW's that's not overly difficult apart from sourcing the front door panels for that option. Hardware can be salvaged from a scrap yard as can most of the electrical connectors and wring harnesses. I did this using parts from a 1997 E250 into a 2000 E250. Those are nice to have, I can't imagine driving without that convenience these days---those and A/C too.
Cruise can also be added but that might be more challenging however there is one thing to check before going down that path---the presence of a factory pigtail connector like this:
First image shows the necessary connector pinned to the left front inner fender right below the radiator degas bottle. Second image shows the connector with its cover plug for vans not factory equipped with the complete VSC system. If that is not present adding VSC won't be possible. Hardware-wise ou'd need the steering wheel with controls, correct clock spring, speed control servo and the cables that run between the servo and throttle body.
If you get that far into adding these features post back as I can add more details how to go about adding them.
The pigtail is present in my 98 van. Looks like a plan to someday install cruise control.
That price on those packs is really good. Makes me want to buy a set to have in stock.
I read the reviews on Amazon and someone pointed out that the coil packs are counterfeit. I ordered 1 real coil pack for a spare from Rock Auto. Additionally, I order 8 plugs and boots.
The spark plugs you need for a '98 5.4 as SP479's----take that as gospel. Use no other brand or type!
The ad you liked showing Motorcraft is designed to dupe people into buying Motorcraft PLUGS thinking the COP's they receive are also Motorcraft----gotta read between the lines. I've bought Motorcraft COP's through Amazon and eBay, typically paying just over $27 each. NAPA has a good brand of better quality COP's that run me about $50 each, I get the same price from the dealer.
The Gear Wrench plug holding socket with built-in extension is a great tool---I bought just the socket/extension. Doing this job might require a few different extensions and perhaps a universal joint or two but personally I don't like those angled flex head ratchets. Not sure if that's just me just being old and too used to doing it one way so take that FWIW.
The coolant price is fair---get at least 4 gallons of the full strength formula, 6 if you can afford it. That way you'll have extra in case its ever needed. Personally I always carry one gallon of already-diluted coolant with me--never know when a little bit will be helpful.
I didn't watch either linked video all the way through but those are good enough. I'll summarize my way..............
1. Remove passenger side seat and entire dog house. Seat bolts are T-55P Torx PLUS bit (this is important) and 18mm deep well socket. Remember to disconnect the seat belt pretensioning pyro connector, remove negative battery post at least 15 minutes before hand though.
2. Remove air cleaner housing, disconnect the MAF sensor wring connection. Honestly I take the duct work all the way back to the throttle body--between that and seat removal this job is massively easier.
3. Blow out each hole prior to removing the COP's. BTW I use a 1/4" drive magnetic socket for the COP bolts---they don't drop off and get lost this way.
4. From inside the cabin you can access the three plugs on either side this way. I only move to the front when changing the #1 and #5--the very front ones on each side.
5. Dab of nickel based anti-seize on the plug threads, torque to 28 ft/lbs with a torque wrench, dab of dielectric grease in the tip of the new COP boot and bolt it all back together. Repeat as necessary.
Word of caution---be VERY VERY careful removing the COP wiring harness connectors---if its below 50*F use a hair dryer or low temp heat gun to GENTLY warm the locking tabs on these before trying to remove them. Those tabs can snap off very easily causing an intermittent connection resulting in misfires. Even though there are replacement pigtails available for upwards of $20 each being careful tends to minimize broken locking tabs.
The spark plugs you need for a '98 5.4 as SP479's----take that as gospel. Use no other brand or type!
The ad you liked showing Motorcraft is designed to dupe people into buying Motorcraft PLUGS thinking the COP's they receive are also Motorcraft----gotta read between the lines. I've bought Motorcraft COP's through Amazon and eBay, typically paying just over $27 each. NAPA has a good brand of better quality COP's that run me about $50 each, I get the same price from the dealer.
The Gear Wrench plug holding socket with built-in extension is a great tool---I bought just the socket/extension. Doing this job might require a few different extensions and perhaps a universal joint or two but personally I don't like those angled flex head ratchets. Not sure if that's just me just being old and too used to doing it one way so take that FWIW.
The coolant price is fair---get at least 4 gallons of the full strength formula, 6 if you can afford it. That way you'll have extra in case its ever needed. Personally I always carry one gallon of already-diluted coolant with me--never know when a little bit will be helpful.
I didn't watch either linked video all the way through but those are good enough. I'll summarize my way..............
1. Remove passenger side seat and entire dog house. Seat bolts are T-55P Torx PLUS bit (this is important) and 18mm deep well socket. Remember to disconnect the seat belt pretensioning pyro connector, remove negative battery post at least 15 minutes before hand though.
2. Remove air cleaner housing, disconnect the MAF sensor wring connection. Honestly I take the duct work all the way back to the throttle body--between that and seat removal this job is massively easier.
3. Blow out each hole prior to removing the COP's. BTW I use a 1/4" drive magnetic socket for the COP bolts---they don't drop off and get lost this way.
4. From inside the cabin you can access the three plugs on either side this way. I only move to the front when changing the #1 and #5--the very front ones on each side.
5. Dab of nickel based anti-seize on the plug threads, torque to 28 ft/lbs with a torque wrench, dab of dielectric grease in the tip of the new COP boot and bolt it all back together. Repeat as necessary.
Word of caution---be VERY VERY careful removing the COP wiring harness connectors---if its below 50*F use a hair dryer or low temp heat gun to GENTLY warm the locking tabs on these before trying to remove them. Those tabs can snap off very easily causing an intermittent connection resulting in misfires. Even though there are replacement pigtails available for upwards of $20 each being careful tends to minimize broken locking tabs.
So there ya go---just as easy as that!
I know I can do this. I am skinny and nimble. I will try doing this without removing the seat the first time I will be very careful removing the COPS. I bought a spare to keep in the van for long trips. The previous owner had one replace last year. I need find out what brand the replacement COP is. If it's not MotorCraft or the Napa brand you mentioned, I will remove that COP and keep as the spare.
The scam ad for the cheap COPs was suspicious. I carefully read the wording and realized they are not MotorCraft.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
