I gotta agree if you're facing $10 to renew the diesel engine you can indeed find a nice E350 for that money more or less depending what you need/want in a new-to-you van. I still think your van has great value as is to the diesel crowd so if that "spare" E150 would work put your 6.0 up for sale and see what comes of posting it.

I'd cruise eBay to see what's out there---you might pleasantly surprised at the number and fair priced raised roof Club Wagon gas engine vans available. Naturally its tough knowing who and how well something was maintained by previous owners so buying anything used is always a crap shoot. It doesn't hurt to begin looking.

As for your noise---I certainly hear something small over and above the normal diesel sounds---its very slight but you're smart wanting to look into what it might be. Definitely get that borescope and see what you see---could be very easy fix. Also remove the belt to eliminate any pulley or other rotating assembly too---might be something that easy, cheap and doable.

 

I removed the belt and the noise is present. I forgot to check if it chirps at shut down without the belt. I will drop the belt again. The noise is a symptom of wear. It's doubtful that the repair will be cheap. With the diesel in a van, one has to remove so much to get to anything. At a minimum, the valve covers have to be removed and this requires loosening the motor mounts on the passenger side. A Ford Mastertech on the diesel forum politely told me "At 822,000 miles, this van owes you nothing." How true. I have put 45k enjoyable nearly trouble free miles on this rig. One cracked Ford plastic top radiator is the only breakdown.

The boroscope arrived last night.

The E150 is the V6. It probably has less torque than the inline 6. It's fine for cruising the freeways and highways. One has to drive slowly up any incline. I paid $1000 for it 7 years ago. Has 125,000 miles on it. It will pack all 9 of us snuggly. We wanted a van for each van for sleeping in case we could not find a camping site. With proper planning, we can arrive early and set up tents.

What about the V10?

I heard coil pack and spark plug changes are a chore. "paying more than $5 each for plugs, and some people say to replace the boots also, which can't be too expensive. The single MOST important thing is to make SURE to get the new plugs torque'd properly, and that you use some thread lube on your new plugs. The V-10 has very few threads in the spark plug holes, so proper torque is mandatory. The thread lube just helps prevent galling between the steel plugs, and the aluminum heads. Some dielectric grease on the boots will help prevent misfire in the future. There is one plug on the V-10 that sits right over a coolant connection. If you have a small leak over that plug it can erode the metal around the plug and cause spark plug blow out. But I'm going to change my own plugs. The doghouse coming off has got to make it much easier than opening a hood. But I went through a major headache after putting plugs in a Zetec Ford. Unbeknownst to me I was cracking the insulators, which would cause a misfire in a couple days, it drove me and the dealership crazy until we figured out what it was. The torque amount is critical. Make sure you have a plug wrench with the neoprene protector, and go slowly and carefully when you're fishing the new plugs down into the hole. You can do it ! (when you're done, post here so I can do mine) Take care, good luck, Ken"

 

Here's a van that I am looking at this weekend. Maintenance records for the past 10 years.

 

That '98 is the E350 you want, good engine and despite it not having PDL & PW it would be a nice people hauler. Great price too---at 100K miles that's got another 200K miles left in it assuming maintenance has been done as claimed. Make sure to ask if the transmission fluid has been fully flushed or its just been that 5 quarts AFT & a filter at some interval. Even if it hasn't under gone that it would be one of the very first steps I'd take if it followed me home.

Plugs schumgs in Modular Motors----it takes longer to describe the correct procedure than to actually do it. If you get that far post back and I'd be happy to share my technique which has worked perfectly on all 4 of the 5.4 motors I've owned. The quoted bits in blue have some basis in fact but even at that you can see the issues Ken experienced were of his own making.

You would change only the spark plugs and boots---there's absolutely no need replacing the COP's. Too many think as they age their performance and MPG's suffer but that's really not the case. You're welcome to change them but that's a waste of money if there are no misfire DTC's with the existing parts. I'm running a 2000 E250 with 6 of its original COP's, now approaching 285K miles.

Let us know if that '98 follows you home CoolFeet!

 

My kids were at a debate tournament in a town 60 miles away and took a break to look at a used E350.

Smelled like a wet dog. Former dog owner. Tires were worn unevenly. AC did not work. Oil was below the add mark. Electric locks did not work.

It it was a small used car lot that advertised in private party Craigslist.

Waster only 5 minutes.

Private party for sale by real owner only. I told the dealer it was not move in ready.

 

What was the asking price and mileage showing on the clock?

 

Mileage was 150k and asking price was $3500. Sometimes you have to go on gut feelings. I passed up a pristine E150 one owner van 5 years ago because it had an electrical problem that drained the battery every 5-7 days. Passed on another E350 Extended because it needed major AC work (Compressor), tires, ball joints, and tie rods.

I told my wife that in the case of this E350. I would take it for free and that's my best offer. It takes me a year of working on the weekends to get vans up to my standards.

Immediately after getting back into my van, I said to myself "This is going to be a hard van to replace as it runs so well."

I am looking at an extended E350 tomorrow.

Any suggestions on the various 5.4 engine build? Some had more valves. The '98 has a composite exhaust manifold.

 

Here's another sweet looking E350

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto...850398925.html

 

The van that I am looking at on Sunday needs tires as the date code is week 29 2011. The radiator was repaired with epoxy by owner and needs replacing. It has $1100 in non-negotiable repairs that I would do.

The Michelin ATX on my current van are 3 years old and have about 25k on them. I could swap out 4 brand new brake calipers and parts, almost new Bilstein shocks. My 2004 van has at least $2000 in useable swap out parts! Heavy duty rear step bumper, and other items of interest. The list is growing. All this is before I would try to sell it.

I have been reading about how durable the 5.4 engine is. Seems like there are more million mile 5.4s than 6.0s. Of course, ford probably builds more 5.4s. Unless I can flip an engine for under $5k I will be getting a 5.4. After flipping parts in my existing van, I will have a nice rig. And I can sell the 6.0 van to someone who needs a good runaround town van as it may go another 200k.

I am convinced that I can find a decent van in California for less than the cost of flipping engines in the diesel van.

 

Not sure if the exhaust manifolds were anything other than cast iron---did you perhaps mean intake? The V-8 Modular Motors have always been composite or "plastic"---V10's had metal intakes.

E-Series gasoline motors from '97 to EOL were all the 2V versions---the 3V's never found their way into the vans. Do make sure any ad saying "V8 engine" really means the 5.4 and NOT the 4.6---that's just not a good motor for your use.

Being realistic you should budget for upwards of additional $1K in repairs whether they're DIY or hired-out. If you're like me there'll always be those nagging little things we just can't live with. If the case of A/C hopefully it doe NOT have rear A/C---those systems can be nightmarishly expensive to properly repair. If front only and depending how long that system has been down usually the worst you'd face is a new compressor. If current system still holds even a small bit of refrigerant charge that's great news.

Great "older" E-Series are out in the world awating new owners---time is on your side if you're patent.

 

2V all the way! I will not buy a 4.6 as it does not offer much more than my underpowered 4.2 v6. Funny you mentioned how hard the rear AC is to work on. I had the privilege to help my friend rip apart the rear AC twice in the middle of the night to get it working-all in one night. The second time was much easier. He had a leak. That was 7 years ago and it's still running! I was only his helper and he taught me a lot.

Glad time is on my side. I really want power windows and power locks. It's not a complete show stopper. However, I plan on running with the next van at least 10 years. The missus prefers power everything. I convinced her that camping is the greatest way of traveling. Need to maintain the illusion.

I want 3.55 rear end for fuel efficiency. 4.10 would be nice for climbing mountains and off-roading. I have reminded myself the van is not an off-road vehicle. No lifts or 4x4.

Would you consider Limited Slip or locking differential?

 

I looked at the E350 van in the above post and it was everything as advertised. The owner is director of engineering at a well-known company. My wife noticed how clean everything was. No drips on the driveway. No noticeable leaks underneath. AC blow cold. Tires, shocks, and radiator need immediate replacement. The epoxy weld did not hold.

No electric locks and windows. Bummer. It drives straight and true. New ball joints and brakes. Fresh grease. New tie rod ends. Brake fluid flushed. Tranny had the fluid drained once in the past 40k,

It's not exactly my "dream van". I got used to electric locks, cruise control, and electric windows. My 822,000-mile diesel van with Bilsteins and Michelins feels better on the road and I will remove said equipment and install on the new van.

We ran some numbers and I asked him what his lowest price is. $4100. I said is that with a leaking radiator or replacing it? The owner did not want to spend another weekend handling Craigslist flakes and paying a shop to replace the radiator. I offered $3700 contingent on finding a decent replacement radiator that I buy. He accepted the offer.

$3700 with 100k miles and 2 owners with the current owner of record having it for the past 10 years and putting on only 40k miles. My wife is happy with the van.

 

I posted my E350 diesel for sale on Craigslist. Maybe someone will be interested in it for parts or get lucky and find a donor engine.

 

So did you buy the 2003 or the 1998 also linked here?