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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 02:44 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Sheepdogg
Look into "Guide Slicks". Your boat will slide off the trailer very easily without having to submerge it so deep. Just be sure to keep the bow rope on the winch secured until you are ready to launch the boat. No need to go "hub deep"! Same way with retrieving, just gently drive it up on the trailer. I never submerge the trailer above the fenders.
Do you have a fiberglass or aluminum? I’ll definitely look into them more. My initial reaction is wondering if these are geared more towards aluminum boats.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 12:54 PM
  #17  
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Loadrite has a version of glide sticks that are basicly plastic covers for the boards, fit like a shoebox lid.
I used them with my heavy 21’ whaler.

As for dunking the wheels, every ramp is different.
Mg local ramp is steep and we have on average a 5’ tide change.

High tide required more dunk, since the truck was more on the flat.

Low tide was less dunk, but funk on the ramp had a different set of challenges.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 02:46 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by George C


Like the posters above said, it’s really no different than driving on a salted road. But, if it is avoidable, why not avoid it?
I’m a fresh water boater, but I like my feet dry.
My last boat/trailer had my truck right into the water before the boat released from the bunks. I welded about three feet of extension onto the tongue, and my problems were solved. So if you do the same, your out of the salt.

When we ordered this boat, I had this custom trailer built extra long for the same reason. The rear tires just barely touch the water when loading/unloading.






Nice Cobalt, I miss my 282 and am looking for another!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 05:06 PM
  #19  
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6.2caribou
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Originally Posted by Favored

Problem is my boat is 27’. So I have to get in up the hubs most times. I like the idea of welding on a tongue extension however it doesn’t need anymore length you know. See image on next post.
What about using a hitch extension between the truck and trailer? It could be installed in a couple of minutes in the dock parking lot, just prior to launching the boat.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 08:04 PM
  #20  
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I’ve got a 21’ chaparral. Our ramp at the local lake isn’t steep at all. I have to back up to my rear tires in the water to launch and recover. Launched in salt a couple of times trailering down to Florida. Steep ramps made for less need to submerge. I don’t think I made it to my tires before floating off.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 09:52 PM
  #21  
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Easy solution but I warn it works to well. Go buy a can of Liquid Rollers. About $12.00. Apply/spray on bunks. The good part it works the bad part is it works. One application will last about 12 launches. The first five the boat will fly off the trailer. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BOW UNTIL YOU ARE IN THE WATER AND SOMEONE IN THE BOAT OR IT WILL END UP IN PARKING LOT. By the fifth launch it just about perfect enough friction to make it just right. I have a Searay 205 and a can will last me two seasons. I never waited for bunks to dry when I applied I just pulled out trailer and applied wet. By the time I returned to dock after being out for 4-5 hours it had dried on the bunks.

It fantastic for Waverunners where most tow with a small SUV and the Ski is not even wet before car in the water. Apply Liquid rollers and just slide off with one little push. I also in Houston where the ramps are very flat and shallow.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2019 | 08:30 PM
  #22  
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George C
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Originally Posted by 6.2caribou
What about using a hitch extension between the truck and trailer? It could be installed in a couple of minutes in the dock parking lot, just prior to launching the boat.
Yes, every inch does count.
Not shown in the pic, but I use a solid ball mount that is an extra foot long, just to add to the total length.
 
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