It all depends on the condition of the rest of the truck. If you invest in another engine, what will fail next? Will you then throw more money into transmission, or something else which will go wrong?

 

 

It depends on your budget. This could be your opportunity to install an engine & transmission combination built for more power. You can put a little bit of money into this truck, and really build it into something stronger. A lot of directions you can go. You will probably want to consider everything from the intake, to exhaust, to the rest of the driveline. New drive shaft, differential, axles, upgraded brakes for more stopping power. A truck this age will also require some suspension work.

It's all perception. You have to believe that it's worth the money to you. Obviously, building this truck will be less than what you would have to spend on a new truck. Shop around a little more. Get a better idea of what the pricing will be for more than just an engine swap. Don't stop at getting that 1 quote for $7,500.

 

$7500. is a LOT of money... what are you getting for that ? A good rebuild or replacement with UPGRADED chains / tensioners/ VCT part should last a long time.

 

7500 is just out of this world. You can have a long block delivered with the updates and new oil pump for 3400.00 add 1500 labor and you will be below 5k.

 

thank you all for your replies!!

I received a second quote from a mechanic we have been using for 15 years. He was the same price. the price includes a $4,400 ford reman motor from the Ford Dealership. comes with 3 year 100K warranty that also covers labor, and I could take it to any ford dealer for repair. I was contemplating a jasper, but I felt ford offered the better deal and would know best how to fix their terrible engine. The price also includes a $500 kit which is pumps, hoses, spark plugs, coil boots and few more items. I was quoted about 1500 or so in labor, and the tax kicked it up, I am also in California, which is expensive by itself.

 

I had the 5.4L 3V Triton in my 2004 F150 XLT 4x4 replaced this past December/January. I shopped around a LOT. Looked at Ford, Jasper, Powertrain, Fraser, and a couple of local mechanics to rebuild. Rebuilding was out of the question due to the damage that had been done to the original motor. I had to go the remanufactured route. I contemplated Ford at first, for the same reasons you stated. However, their price was RIDICULOUSLY high compared to the others and the warranty was less. i also found out that a Ford reman'd 5.4 doesn't address many of the issues related to this particular engine. Ford DOES NOT supply a high volume/high pressure oil pump with the motor. They also do not address the cam caps by line boring them and installing cam bearings. And lastly, they use the non-ratcheting tensioners.

After much research and many conversations with the builders, I went with a Fraser engine. 5 year/unlimited mileage "no-fault" warranty. You can have installed by anyone you choose or even install it yourself as long as you follow all of their guidelines. Jasper motors can only be installed by Jasper "partners" (no a bad thing actually), but their price was similar to Fords. I ended paying $3300 for the motor, which included the "install kit" (water pump, plugs, thermostat, air filter, oil and oil filter) and the no-fault/unlimited mileage warranty. The price also included shipping to and from (core pick up). The core charge was $450, and I received that back as a credit on my card within 2 days of them receiving the original motor. I gotta say, they were a breeze to deal with and kept to their word on everything so far. I'm VERY happy with the motor.

I did get a good deal on the install, which my mechanic charged my $60/hour for. Think I ended up paying him $1200, but there was more to it than just the motor install. My original motor was so fubar'd that I had to buy a new intake manifold, a new radiator, a complete new A/C system (compressor/drier/evaporator), and a new harmonic balancer. Of course, you need new hoses and a new belt and I opted to purchase all new COP's and all new sensors as well as new motor mounts. I also opt'd to use proper break-in oil (5w30) in it, which was a bit pricey ($15/qt). I have about 1500 miles on the motor now and she's purring like a kitten. Gobs of power too. Gas mileage was terrible at first, but that's how it is with a brand new motor. Now she is getting about 12mpg city and 17 on the highway. It'll improve as the mileage racks up till about 5,000 miles. Oh, BTW, I also swapped out all four cats and dropped a new dual-outlet Flowmaster muffler on it. She sounds and runs great.

Anyway, that's the story of my install. Take what you can from it, but I HIGHLY recommend Fraser Engines. Next up is my transmission, which is slipping in reverse. I'll be dropping in a transmission from Fraser as well. $1700 with a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty and it comes with a new torque converter. Sure, it may sound like a lot to put into a 15 year old truck, but everything else on this truck is great and it's a heck of a lot cheaper than dropping $48,000 on a new one. i cant stomach the thought of a $500-600 payment for 6 years!

 

BTW, before and after purchasing I confirmed that Fraser uses/used all OEM timing parts (phasers/guides/chain/tensioners/vct solenoids). The only after market parts they sent me were the water pump and thermostat. I ended up using OEM Motorcraft parts for both, but after researching the parts they sent me, they were actually decent parts. Guess now I have spares just in case. I also have a spare Melling M360HV, and Motorcraft VCT solenoids because I had purchased them before I knew they were already included with the new motor.

 

Are you in NorCal or SoCal. There are some dealerships who have better techs than others. There are also independent shops in certain areas who may do a better job than the dealership.

From what you wrote, I would swap the motor along with the transmission. Get a fresh start with both. It could be less labor that way.

 

I absolutely agree with this statement. Also, you should EASILY be able to do both with the price you were originally quoted ($7500). You'll basically have a brand new truck with a 5 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty (if you go with Fraser or Power Train Products).

 

3rd.

I had it out with my mechanic for trying to go the cheap route and no matter how much he swore up and down about whatever company he was trying to buy from, I said hell no, called Fraser and my warranty myself at his shop, and had him set it all up in front of me. Yea, I am that guy. Fraser IMHO, is the best option because like Rumble Phish said, they include everything OEM. Call them, set it up, and give the info to your shop.

 

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/07-08-engine-replacement-powersource-412501/index3/

I've got a a little over 1k on mine now..... it's pretty well broken in..... fantastic!

I also replaced ALL hoses, belts, worn wiring, several sensors, coils, radiator, alternator, power steering pump, 100% new AC system, manifolds, all new flowmaster exhaust, etc for less than $7500 ALL in..... Had tranny thoroughly checked out and it's still in good shape..... Suspension was already totally rebuilt and it's essentially brand new..... Runs and drives, literally, like brand new.

 

Why not give your money to a different mechanic? There has to be another capable mechanic in your area, who won't argue with you, and try to install lesser quality parts at his mark-up. And if that mechanic really believed that using low quality parts was just as good, then I would have found a mechanic who actually knew that quality parts are better.

Same way I don't let those guys on the corner change my oil. They swear that it's fine to use 10W-30 from their unmarked drum, and those generic filters in the white can, which have no brand name, and only a cross reference part number. Everyone with a coupon gets 4 quarts of their oil in a drum, a poor quality filter, and a sticker on the windshield telling you to come back in 3,000 miles or 3 months. Only problem being that most cars use 5, 6, or even 7 quarts of oil. Owner of the shop swears that you do not have to fill to the max as specified in the owners manual. That's why the dipstick has marks which allows for 2 quarts of variance.

These same characters did my neighbor's timing belt on his Honda. My neighbor has seen me doing enough work out on the street, that he asked if I would go with him, in case they tried to pull a fast one on him. He & I got a case of Pabst, and hung around the shop while they worked on his car. They saved him a few dollars by not installing new thermostat, water pump, belts, hoses.......and even reused the coolant......which they drained into a filthy drain pan. That's right. The fluid was contaminated by whatever was in the drain pan, and it poured right back into his radiator. They convinced him that he was saving money on the job. All true. It would have cost a little bit more for new parts.....and new coolant! I don't really like that neighbor much. I let those mechanics on the corner screw him over. However, I did tell him that if it were my car, I would have spent the extra money for new parts - since it's just as much labor to reinstall old parts.

 

Chances are all of the factory rebuilts including Motorcraft are rebuilt by AER in Texas. Motorcraft pays dealer warranty time and the others are about 1/2 of that. So, $3,300 with a $50/hr warranty vs $5400 with a $100/hr warranty, that you'll likely never use. I wound up with an AER, all new wear items (exhaust manifolds, starter, alt, ac compressor...), and install for about $5,500. !0,000 miles on the engine with no issues. I wouldn't put $7500 in a truck with a slipping trans. I thought long and hard about my truck and decided that it was like buying the truck for $5,500. After looking at rusty $12,000 used trucks that weren't as nice as mine, it was an easy choice.