Speedo and other dash problems
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Hudsonville, MI
Speedo and other dash problems
Couldn't find anything in a search, hoping someone has an idea. 2012 F-150 with minimal options. 3.7L 2WD Started where the radio would cut in and out, heater, then the temp reading, then the gauge cluster. Not all at the same time usually, sometimes all. That cleared up for a couple days, started doing it again, quit. Then the battery symbol would come on at times, (putting out over 14V) now today the battery symbol is on full time and the Speedometer is reading way fast. Every time a clean a terminal or disconnect the battery it gains MPH. At 50 right now just sitting there.
Been through all the visible terminals, looked for broken wires, pulled/wiggled every fuse/relay, any other ideas???
Been through all the visible terminals, looked for broken wires, pulled/wiggled every fuse/relay, any other ideas???
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
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Is that the original battery ? original alternator ? how many miles ? Normally when the light comes on it means the alternator is putting out LESS voltage than the battery . Eventually the battery will go dead due to low charge. Average alternator life is approx. 150K miles.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hudsonville, MI
I'm sure they are not original, has 221K on it. I purchased it last summer from a dealer that used it for running parts so most everything has been well maintained. Alternator is putting out over 14V when running and the light is on.
I was reading that the PCM can give signs of going out, but they don't match what I have gong on...
I was reading that the PCM can give signs of going out, but they don't match what I have gong on...
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Hudsonville, MI
The battery don't have a tag on it, don't look too old.
Was doing more digging tonight and found a stored memory code in the air bag system where it lost communication with the dash panel. Looking like it's a wire issue somewhere, just haven't hit the right one yet I guess. Thinking it may be in the ignition switch, does not chime in off position when the door is opened, does odd things to the gauge cluster if you push the key in or put backwards pressure on it.
Going to bring it to the dealer in the morning for the recall 'flash' to the system, if that don't make any difference guess I'll have to keep digging...
Was doing more digging tonight and found a stored memory code in the air bag system where it lost communication with the dash panel. Looking like it's a wire issue somewhere, just haven't hit the right one yet I guess. Thinking it may be in the ignition switch, does not chime in off position when the door is opened, does odd things to the gauge cluster if you push the key in or put backwards pressure on it.
Going to bring it to the dealer in the morning for the recall 'flash' to the system, if that don't make any difference guess I'll have to keep digging...
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Hudsonville, MI
I think it's beyond that point JKBrad, sadly. All the sells test even with my refractometer, I took had it load tested at a battery shop to be sure. (Guy I trust at Interstate) Took the alternator off and had it bench tested at a local rebuild shop, shows 14V. Caught it in the act the other day and there is a loud clicking noise under the hood and the voltage will spike at 17.5V. My understanding is the voltage is regulated through the PCM, getting very frustrating. Had a guy I know put a SnapOn tester on it the other day and it showed the F wire was showing an active code, I did splice the wire as it had a bad spot by the steering column with a shrink type connector, not a scotch lock.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 52
From: Lawton, Oklahoma
Overcharging will cause modules to go into a protection mode and shut down. Test the wiring to the alternator from the PCM and if there are no issues with wiring then likely you have a bad alternator.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Hudsonville, MI
Just a follow up on this, it ended up being a broken wire in the harness under the front of the engine. Repaired that and all is good with the electrical. I got the instrument front panel pulled up far enough to stick something in and move the gauges back to zero so now they read correctly as well.
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