Stuck in Park: replaced brake light switch; even though brake light worked; nothing changed. Did a search & did not find any info how to replace this. I went to Ford & the parts dept. could not give me a print out of this; they gave me a huge print out of the steering section; but NO SIS diagram. Part alone cost about $150; plus towing $200; plus labor, probably $300. The van is not worth much more than $1000. I can get an aftermarket much cheaper. Anyone ever replace one of these? I have a manual but NO description of how to remove. I am hoping that I do not have to remove steering wheel, etc. Thanks for any replies. BTW: I have checked ALL the fuses and plan to swap out ALL the fuses just in case there is corrosion.

 

Before you go all crazy and jump into this first check fuse #6 of the inside fuse box aka Central Junction Box, key on in "run" position. Even if its passing current according to a test light check or it anyway---the blade-type fuses can test good but not pass enough current to power a device.

You can access the shift interlock solenoid by dropping the steering column so the steering wheel rests on the seat. There's no need to remove the steering wheel etc:



There are four metric nuts holding the entire column assembly to the dash board structure---they're 13, 14 of 15MM but its been so long since I removed my own I don't recall the exact size. IF you do this BEFORE you drop the column remove the small string attached to the shift lever that pulls the gear selector indicator---not being careful will break that and you'll not be able to see which gear you've selected.

This is what I'm talking about:




Once the column is lowered you have somewhat clear access to the interlock solenoid that's held in place with Torx bolts. Here's a view of the top side of the column with the SIS outlined in yellow.


If I were doing this job I'd take time to inspect and probably replace the shift tube bushings as those are known to wear out and/or the attaching Torx bolts work themselves loose.

If you're doing this job on the cheap check with Rock Auto or a local parts counter for a replacement.

HTH

 

Very informative; thanks. I had searched almost an hour w/no results. I will get started w/ALL the fuses & go from there & will post the results.

 

I went according to your instructions: I found out that the shaft from horizontal gearshift shaft was broken; replaced it & the solenoid interlock safety switch. Shifted fine; I have something wrong; will go into Park, drive, etc, but will not lock & cannot remove key. Will tinker with it again. Thanks for the pic. Got the parts at a recycled place w/a bunch of fuses for $30.

 

There is another rod with a lock up bolt that fits into the shift rod--when you remove the key with the shifter in Park this bolt engages preventing the steering wheel from turning and also not allowing the shifter to move. I should have more photos of all this---give me a bit to dig them up.

 

ALL the photos & info worked great. I can shift into any gear & shift back into park; but cannot remove the key. Also; it will shift out of park with the switch off; so I have missed something in my reverse installation. Thanks for all the help.

 

Any ideas on this: I have done a thorough search & cannot anything except using WD 40 or removing key cylinder & lubing & reinstalling. That's what I plan to do. It was working w/no problems before the shift interlock solenoid went out.

 

Okay follow along here---I'll try helping you.

This is the area we'll be working in or near:



This part is what locks the steering column when the key is removed It is located under the shift tube:



That part ^^ fits into this notch on the shift left tube:



If those two parts don't align properly you can't rotate the lock cylinder enough where the key will remove from the cylinder. At this point you may need to remove the entire column to inspect and possibly replace other parts. I'm not a fan of using scrap yard parts generally especially for something like steering column repair. Do as you feel best though---after all its your money and time.

HTH

 

Thanks for the pics; I have not gotten to it yet; will Let you know the results.

 

JWA, great photos and instructions. Too bad Ford shop manuals don't come with instructions like this!

 

Their solution might suggest replacing the entire column---that makes sense from an expedient repair and return vehicle to customer. I have and had time to tear into these columns doing it out of curiosity and a minor minor need to renew some internal parts I knew were subject to wear. It was fun and these days there's not a lot about the E-Series columns I can DIY repair with little to no trouble.

Of course it does help having an extra column laying around to refresh my memory occasionally.

 

JWA gave very accurate info that I could not find anywhere on the internet. This van was a prisoner van that had been abused w/199,000 miles; so I did not want to put a lot of money in it. I found the parts as described above @ a recycle place, but after installation still had some problems with getting it to lock in park & removing the key. JWA gave me some more pics; I cleaned ALL the area & applied some lubricant & reattached. I had already replaced the shift interlock solenoid. After ALL; I still had problems with turning the key; sometimes it would work, other times a no go; so I purchased a new key cylinder @ Oreilly for $26; & everything is a go. Works perfect. A BIG thanks to JWA w/all the pics; very helpful. All in all; I spent almost $60 & van is ready for work!!

 

I’m doing a 4x4 swap on my 99 van — and it’s sat with the key in “ON” for like 2 years while I was doing the work.

I fired it up today for the first time — and it works — but the key will NOT come out.

I removed the cylinder and the key will come out with the cylinder removed — but it will not turn to the off position while installed.

It appears the actuator arm is getting jammed…

I’m trying my best to do this without just throwing parts — but it seems a new lock cylinder may help?

The FSM is so very vague on the operation of the steering column…

I’d rather not tear it down — but if I have to — I will.

I see the photos above of the lock mechanism — is it possible to see those parts without removing the column? I’m guessing it got corroded and something is caught up… but it’s so confusing!!

thanks!

 

Well I solved it -- and lucky for me it was an "easy" fix!

For me it was the shift lock pawl wasn't clicking -- likely due to not being run for nearly 2 years and my selector shaft bearings being quite worn.

I ended up being able to get the pawl to move by removing the shift linkage from the transmission -- pushing the shifter as high as I could (beyond park) and then I heard a "click" and BAM the steering wheel locked.

I still couldn't turn the key to "LOCK" -- but I gave it a firm turn and it came loose -- could definitely feel it overcoming some caked up grease. I put the linkage back on at the transmission and it now works -- I reckon it was just caked up with hardened grease -- but we are all systems go now!

Thanks for the great photos on this thread though -- I don't think I would have put two-and-two together without seeing how the shift tube and lock pawl mate. I'm guessing when that lock pawl snaps into the selector lever -- it lifts up on the other end and allows the ignition switch actuator rod and key to move into the "LOCK" position.

Yahoo! I can get back to the fun stuff now...