When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After reading many threads on here i decided to upgrade my factory stereo system. I am by no means a audiophile. First i swapped out my front speakers with Focal isc690s (due to crutchfield pricing) with a infinity reference 3.5 in the center. Loved the way it sounded with the mids and highs but lost all my bass. had i known what i know now i would have went with front 6x9 components and swapped tweeters. in order to restore my lost bass i added a jl audio micro sub enclosure with 2 8" subs with a 500x1jl amp. they fit after cutting my carpet back but its not a nice fit. very tight and maybe alittle overtight (i dented the the covers and decided to remove). I would have been happy with the single jl audio 8" 2 8" is overpowering for me and i have them turned down. that being said i tried to take valuble pictures along the way that may help someone else. here they are
How was it getting the wire through the other side of that grommet? From what I've seen on those JL boxes is they are 5" deep top to bottom. Been looking for one that is between 5-6" at the bottom and around 3-3.5" at the top to fit better behind that seat. Not sure if I'd run an 8 or a 10 but I think I'd only stick with one sub. Your setup looks pretty good though.
So far my plan is to buy the harness available at https://plugnplaykits.com/products/f...13214058217515 that would run a little more power to some C2 series JL speakers and would have a pre-out for an amp if I decide on one.
How was it getting the wire through the other side of that grommet? From what I've seen on those JL boxes is they are 5" deep top to bottom. Been looking for one that is between 5-6" at the bottom and around 3-3.5" at the top to fit better behind that seat. Not sure if I'd run an 8 or a 10 but I think I'd only stick with one sub. Your setup looks pretty good though.
So far my plan is to buy the harness available at https://plugnplaykits.com/products/f...13214058217515 that would run a little more power to some C2 series JL speakers and would have a pre-out for an amp if I decide on one.
Im a big jl fan. that being said the focals up front provide more then enough highs and mids. the c2 series is a 3 way 6x9 i believe. If i did it over again or was adding an amp to the door speakers in the first place i would have definitely went with components and tweeters (still may swap). I had to add an output line converter to run rca's to my amp. wasn't as bad as i imagined just had to tap into rear speakers(once you start tearing your new truck apart its not that hard to go alittle further). The jl box is 5ish inches top to bottom and is overly tight imo (took quite a bit of force to latch my rear seat) but it is latched. rockford has a couple boxes on the market that would probably fit better. As for your grommet question i assume you are talking about the firewall and it was the hardest part of the install. I did it myself but with a sharp knife and a coat hanger. Im happy to provide any feedback from my install you need. I wanted alittle more out of my sound system and ended up with way more then i need to make everything balance
How was it getting the wire through the other side of that grommet? From what I've seen on those JL boxes is they are 5" deep top to bottom. Been looking for one that is between 5-6" at the bottom and around 3-3.5" at the top to fit better behind that seat. Not sure if I'd run an 8 or a 10 but I think I'd only stick with one sub. Your setup looks pretty good though.
So far my plan is to buy the harness available at https://plugnplaykits.com/products/f...13214058217515 that would run a little more power to some C2 series JL speakers and would have a pre-out for an amp if I decide on one.
JL has a truck wedge box that ive had my eye on. It measures out to what you are looking for.
You shouldn't have lost any bass going with those Focals, did you remove the EQ with FORscan after you installed? The stock system (all of them, Sony, BO, regular Sync) roll off the lower frequencies as you turn up the volume. You can remove with with FORscan and get your bass back....but....since you already installed some subs you probably dont need to do that now haha.
You shouldn't have lost any bass going with those Focals, did you remove the EQ with FORscan after you installed? The stock system (all of them, Sony, BO, regular Sync) roll off the lower frequencies as you turn up the volume. You can remove with with FORscan and get your bass back....but....since you already installed some subs you probably dont need to do that now haha.
Dang Tricon I guess I missed that mod with FORscan,can you post the link to it for me?
I posted this in the FORscan thread and a couple of the stereo threads, IIRC, In the ACM section, in address 727-01-02, change x*xx xx (the second number) to 0. Mine was originally EQ setting 6. Flattens it right out and leaves the outputs high level.
There's another step if you have premium sound and want to disable the crap Sony DSP too.
Gosh it looks like getting access to forscan is really almost not optional. Can do a lot of stuff in there, this is extremely valuable information to have. Another item on the checklist is to get set up with forscan and the port tool.
You shouldn't have lost any bass going with those Focals, did you remove the EQ with FORscan after you installed? The stock system (all of them, Sony, BO, regular Sync) roll off the lower frequencies as you turn up the volume. You can remove with with FORscan and get your bass back....but....since you already installed some subs you probably dont need to do that now haha.
That would have been great to know $810 ago. live and learn
Thanks for the write up and advice that 2 subs probably aren't needed for less than over the top killer systems. I bought some adapters and tried to put the JL Audio C2 6x9's (from my last truck) in my front doors. I ended up breaking a plastic clip off the end of the door release cable (don't let you door panel hang from the release cable coming from the inside door handle). Got the new cable for only $13 but what a pain to install it. Gave up and dropped it off at a shop last night. I'm better at welding up things on my old plow truck then messing with these new plastic ones.
I also have a extra set of Alpine 5x7 2 way speakers...can they fit in the rear doors?
Got a call from the stero shop and they said the 5x7's won't fit the rear doors. Since he already had one door panel off I opted to have another pair of JL Audio C2's put in...forgot what size they are.
I'll leave it this way for awhile and decide if a replacement sub is needed. I do miss the JL Audio 10" I had my 2017.
Thanks for the write up and advice that 2 subs probably aren't needed for less than over the top killer systems. I bought some adapters and tried to put the JL Audio C2 6x9's (from my last truck) in my front doors. I ended up breaking a plastic clip off the end of the door release cable (don't let you door panel hang from the release cable coming from the inside door handle). Got the new cable for only $13 but what a pain to install it. Gave up and dropped it off at a shop last night. I'm better at welding up things on my old plow truck then messing with these new plastic ones.
I also have a extra set of Alpine 5x7 2 way speakers...can they fit in the rear doors?
I removed my door release cable and moved entire pannel to a safe place. there are you tube videos on how to remove the cable. very simple
I posted this in the FORscan thread and a couple of the stereo threads, IIRC, In the ACM section, in address 727-01-02, change x*xx xx (the second number) to 0. Mine was originally EQ setting 6. Flattens it right out and leaves the outputs high level.
There's another step if you have premium sound and want to disable the crap Sony DSP too.
If you do this, does is negate the head unit bass and treble adjustments ie, make them unusable?
I used JL C1 components to replace my Sony stuff and a shallow Punch sub in the factory box but with a small amp using a rear speaker for the source. Much MUCH better than factory.
