Starting on the fix
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Old exhaust pipe was dead center in the opening, and when running the engine looks dead normal. Ditto perches and mounts... I called a couple of shops today and they want $150-180 to bend this $65 pipe 3/4". Due to needing this running before month end (registration expiring and have to have it inspected first - which means running) I will buy a $25 flex connector and cut the Walker pipe off before the cross member. I would just buy another Walker pipe but my trust in them is non-existent and how do I know I won't get something else wrong? Not my happiest repair...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Happier days... I cut the Y-pipe just aft of the bung for the O2 sensor, and will temporarily run a bit of flex pipe through the frame opening. I am actually more impressed with modern flex pipe than the older stuff I remember from the '70s... maybe it will last TWO weeks. Manifolds on and torqued, Y pipe bolted down. Found that the upper alternator bolt will be an issue, it normally goes from back to front but the new manifolds block that. Bought a 5" bolt and nut and will drill out the old threads so I can run the new bolt in from the front side. Had to buy longer carb studs to allow for the 1" spacer I am adding below the carb. Now to do some quick reading on installing the Holley four barrel...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Due to time constraints I temporarily blew off the rocker swap. Carb linkage turned out well: while the Ford cable pulls to work and the normal linkage on the carb wants to be pushed, at the bottom of the linkage was another hole I could screw the linkage ball onto. Puts the ball on the other side of the lever so pulling works there and the hookup became relatively easy. The old curved throttle cable bracket had nowhere to bolt on, so I cut some small straps to go to the valve cover bolts. I used aluminum for proof of concept, and will need to replace that with steel strap for durability - but it worked.The rear manifold has a decent size leak at the Y-pipe and I think from the high idle I have a vacuum leak.... but it fired up and ran to the inspection station so I beat Texas' deadline. Upgrading those mounting straps to steel, adjusting for a better seal, and retorquing all the bolts can wait a day or so. Have to say - I'm gonna like this when it's sorted out, feels more like a stock 351 than a 300 now. 'Way better power. But wow, what a pain in the neck this has been. The guys who did this with their engines OUT have it much easier.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Bought a doughnut gasket if needed and loosened/retightened Y-pipe flanges; think that may have the exhaust leak handled. NEED a tailpipe; with nothing past the muffler it is too noisy. After hearing the local Meinecke quote me $180 for one bend, I may have to find another shop. Carb idling high so I suspect a vacuum leak; may be as minor as a bad PCV or ??. Would track it but battery was dead; when I tested I found a massive drain and it turned out my alternator chose this point in its life to go south. New alternator, no drain now, and letting it charge up so I can check the vacuum. After 5 mostly trouble free years I guess this is to be expected.... but if someone were to offer me anything within 20% of what I have in it; they would own a truck.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Different shop MUCH more reasonable and had whole tailpipe made yesterday. Still have noise, though. Guy at the shop (who has hands seemingly made of asbestos!) says he feels exhaust coming from back around cylinder 5... try again with a better gasket. Anyone abler to recommend a one-and-done choice? Obviously my first one wasn't it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Finally had a chance to work on it (between moving and job nothing is done in a hurry and the manifolds are as flat as I can determine. Old gasket looked like hell (not in love with a gasket that is folded in half anyway) so I ordered a new one which should arrive tomorrow.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
When I did the EFI exh. manifolds I had a little exh. leak at the 2 front ports but was able to tighten when it was hot and it stopped.
Had to do freeze plugs so the manifolds were removed. The exh. side sealed good but the intake side is now leaking at the #1 cly.
Who did you get the gaskets thru? the first 2 I got thru Rock Auto and were Victor. Because I want to redo this this coming long weekend I am going to hit Auto Zone down the street.
Dave ----
Had to do freeze plugs so the manifolds were removed. The exh. side sealed good but the intake side is now leaking at the #1 cly.
Who did you get the gaskets thru? the first 2 I got thru Rock Auto and were Victor. Because I want to redo this this coming long weekend I am going to hit Auto Zone down the street.
Dave ----
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
This one is a metal reinforced Felpro, MUCH more confidence inspiring, as in "looks like a REAL exhaust gasket". Got the front manifold in place, then the intake, when trying to get the rear exhaust manifold in position I found little interference at a casting corner so I ground off about 1/16" for a better fit. Had to work this afternoon so I got stopped there, but I am real hopeful this time. 30 pounds torque to the studs, correct?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
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From: NE Texas
well, to sum up: got it together, new gasket, checked all manifolds for flat... and I still hear what sounds like an exhaust leak up front. A little less, but unless somehow a brand new Flowmaster sounds like straight pipe, I still have a leak. I rechecked torques, made sure the manifolds are sitting square over the ports, did new gasket... yet it still sounds like a deuce and a half . I will say the engine raps up to rpms instantly, when last I drove it the first time around it was substantially quicker and more responsive, and I think when it comes together it will be great... but this time it goes in the shop and they get the joy of dealing with it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
This one is a metal reinforced Felpro, MUCH more confidence inspiring, as in "looks like a REAL exhaust gasket". Got the front manifold in place, then the intake, when trying to get the rear exhaust manifold in position I found little interference at a casting corner so I ground off about 1/16" for a better fit. Had to work this afternoon so I got stopped there, but I am real hopeful this time. 30 pounds torque to the studs, correct?
You using EFI exh. manifolds? If so did you take some off the exh to head flange?
If you put the exh. & intake manifolds on a flat surface you will see the flange the thick washers sit on are higher on the exh. side. They need to be even between the 2 manifolds so the washers have the same clamping force on each manifold.
wonder if that could be your issue?
Dave ----
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
No, did not plane down the EFI manifolds, no one ever mentions that as needed. I would think the large washers would cant toward the slightly thinner intake tabs and clamp them down OK... besides, my problem is primarily with a persistent exhaust leak and it would seem to me the manifold with the supposedly lower clamping pressure would be the one leaking, not the higher.
I am wondering, though - To spread the clamping are down I did use 1 1/4" fender washers under the original Ford washers. I had to trim a bit off them on the lower row of studs because they were running into the intake runners.... maybe I should try removing them and just go with the original Ford washers only? Any thoughts on that?
I am wondering, though - To spread the clamping are down I did use 1 1/4" fender washers under the original Ford washers. I had to trim a bit off them on the lower row of studs because they were running into the intake runners.... maybe I should try removing them and just go with the original Ford washers only? Any thoughts on that?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
No, did not plane down the EFI manifolds, no one ever mentions that as needed. I would think the large washers would cant toward the slightly thinner intake tabs and clamp them down OK... besides, my problem is primarily with a persistent exhaust leak and it would seem to me the manifold with the supposedly lower clamping pressure would be the one leaking, not the higher.
I am wondering, though - To spread the clamping are down I did use 1 1/4" fender washers under the original Ford washers. I had to trim a bit off them on the lower row of studs because they were running into the intake runners.... maybe I should try removing them and just go with the original Ford washers only? Any thoughts on that?
I am wondering, though - To spread the clamping are down I did use 1 1/4" fender washers under the original Ford washers. I had to trim a bit off them on the lower row of studs because they were running into the intake runners.... maybe I should try removing them and just go with the original Ford washers only? Any thoughts on that?
A heads up.
I fixed my intake leak yesterday and tightening up the nut on the rear lower manifold it did not feel right?? I looked closer and found the washer was not on the flange of the exh. manifold.
I had to loosen up the nuts and push the exh. manifold rearward so the washer would sit on the flange.
Check each washer that it is on the flange of both the intake & exh. manifolds.
When I first fired mine back up I had a leak at the Y pipe at the front manifold but was able to tighten the 2 nuts and it was fixed.
I still want to run it more thru a few heat / cooling and see if I can tighten up the nut more before calling it done.
BTW I was able to reuse the new old gasket, only run for 10 min. at most before the truck was put away.
So I did not need to remove the manifolds to fix the vacuum leak, I had to lower the intake by about 1/8", I got lucky.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Yes I would remove them fender washers and use just the thick factory washers.
A heads up.
I fixed my intake leak yesterday and tightening up the nut on the rear lower manifold it did not feel right?? I looked closer and found the washer was not on the flange of the exh. manifold.
I had to loosen up the nuts and push the exh. manifold rearward so the washer would sit on the flange.
Check each washer that it is on the flange of both the intake & exh. manifolds.
When I first fired mine back up I had a leak at the Y pipe at the front manifold but was able to tighten the 2 nuts and it was fixed.
I still want to run it more thru a few heat / cooling and see if I can tighten up the nut more before calling it done.
BTW I was able to reuse the new old gasket, only run for 10 min. at most before the truck was put away.
So I did not need to remove the manifolds to fix the vacuum leak, I had to lower the intake by about 1/8", I got lucky.
Dave ----
A heads up.
I fixed my intake leak yesterday and tightening up the nut on the rear lower manifold it did not feel right?? I looked closer and found the washer was not on the flange of the exh. manifold.
I had to loosen up the nuts and push the exh. manifold rearward so the washer would sit on the flange.
Check each washer that it is on the flange of both the intake & exh. manifolds.
When I first fired mine back up I had a leak at the Y pipe at the front manifold but was able to tighten the 2 nuts and it was fixed.
I still want to run it more thru a few heat / cooling and see if I can tighten up the nut more before calling it done.
BTW I was able to reuse the new old gasket, only run for 10 min. at most before the truck was put away.
So I did not need to remove the manifolds to fix the vacuum leak, I had to lower the intake by about 1/8", I got lucky.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
All washers are solidly on each manifold where appropriate.... and the leak is gone (got under it with a prybar and moved the Y pipe some.) No noise, sounds exactly like I wanted - almost a stock exhaust. Y-pipe into a Flowmaster 55 and then l-o-n-g 2 1/2" pipe all the way to the rear. Muffled but free flowing. Of course my timing light decided to crap out on me, so I decided to let the shop (which does a LOT of carbureted rstoration cars) to set up my timing, check for vacuum leaks, etc. What the hell, they have the expertise and the tools, and I already had the appointment. Now for the kickdown... I suspect Lokar will get my business for that.
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