Get your current wander/handeling issue sorted out BEFORE adding and additional parts such as a sway bar to your setup, the more springs ( sway bars are a spring ) the more complicated it is to differiante what is doing what and get sorted out.
when I tune a vehicle I start by removing all sway bars and steering dampener, get it handeling as near perfect as possible and then add any additional devices as required, On the Ex, a well balanced setup doesn’t need a front or rear sway bar and even if you do add one they do nothing for wander, a rear sway bar is used to reduce understeer or reduce body roll if you do a lot of twisty mountain road driving, their effect is negligible on straight flat highways where your wander is prevelant and in fact make the ride jarring side to side around town.

Back to your current setup, yes the rear spring looks to be stock, however a better pic is required so I can see more of the rear spring, trying a pic from the driveline looking out and from the axle forward all the way to the spring hanger.

while you are under there can you measure the aluminum block and the factory block. It appear your rear lift is provided by the addition of the silver colored block

also, we need the measurments from the center of your hub to the bottom of the fender lip both from and rear.

With 4* of caster we can rule out a lack of caster,
Edit.... going to make another post about toe

did you get a chance to check the front wheel bearings and ball joints ?
jack up the front axle so the tire is off the ground a few inches and use a large pry bar between the ground and tire... even a slight wiggle is a bad sign....and I mean a tiny wiggle so be be diligent.

Mailseth,
i am in Lincoln but will be going through Davis on Saturday and can take some time to have a look see.
Fwiw, I don’t have a rate, at least for this, just helpin out, now if you need a race truck designed and built that would be a diffrent story
send me your phone number and we can meet up sat afternoon.

Alignment settings

looking at your spec sheet that place ripped you off, I’d take it back and have them fix it or take it to a compentent shop.

Ideal would be
-.06* total toe
steer ahead .00*
Caster 4*


with that and your air pressures set to 50 front 55 rear it should not wander.
A compentent shop will not align the vehicle if any components are worn out so if that will answer the unit bearing and ball joint question

Im back in town with the Ex in daylight and got some more photos & measurements. I haven’t had the chance to push the front wheel yet.

Your measurements are off, at least the stock block. It’s not 1 1/2”.
When measuring the center to fender measure vertically.

1. I see somebody added an additional leaf to the rear spring pack, looks like an “add a leaf” which makes it worse because not only does add to much springs rate they have more arch then your other springs, that binds the leafs above and below it causing additional friction which prevent the suspension from articulating. All in all a poor setup for handeling and ride quality.

2. As mentioned, Measure vertically to the bottom of the fender arch, or to the bottom of the hugest point in the fender opening.

3. Double check the block measurment... I am not aware of any factory block that is 1.5” the end points of the red line is point to measure

Alright. I think I screwed up all the measurements. Here’s another try.

Your front is lifted 3” but I can not confirm those are procomp springs from the pic, however your leaf found suggest they are are at least the approx correct spring rate and they look to be in good working order.

the back is lifted a total 2.5” 2” is from the aluminum block and 1/2” is from the add a leaf on a stock rear spring pack.
The stock Ex rear suspension was less then ideal to begin with and these mods made it worse. I would change it if it were mine. however this is not the root cause of your poor handeling.

your wander is almost certainly from your current alignment setup. See my post #24 above for the fix.