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Electrical/Power issue

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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 04:31 PM
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Unhappy Electrical/Power issue

Sorry for the long post.First let let me explain that I am new to the 6.0L I have experience with the 7.3L and diagnosis/troubleshooting in general. Yesterday I went to help a coworker replace the ICP sensor and pigtail in his 2003 F350 6.0L. He was having issues with no power ( limp mode) and pulled a P2290, Low ICP. I did the sensor replacement from the bottom and removed the turbo intake/air cleaner and coolant bottle so that I could reach the pigtail. I also unplugged the IPR so that I would be able to pull the harness a little more to replace the pigtail. It took about 1.5 hrs at most and when we went to start it after, it wouldnt even turn over. The hood bulb was on the entire time because I forgot to disconnect the battery. I had him charge the battery over night. This morning it still wont turn over, in fact i cant even hear anything under the hood like the injectors buzz or fuel pump etc.. When I hook up auto enginuity, it wont even connect. I have checked all connections as well as all fuses. One strange thing is when i pull the fuse for the cigarette/OBD port, i am only getting around 6 volts at the fuse block. I disconnected the yellow wire on the passanger firewall and touched it to the pos battery with the ignition in run and it cranked but would not fire. I cannot even run a diagnostic test. The batteries are at around 12 volts but I dont know how well they are? The were bought in Oct of 2013 and he only drives about 2 miles each way to work and it has been cold. does anyone have any suggestions on where I should start? Shouldnt I get the same voltage at the fuse block as I am getting at the battery? Thanks in advance,.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 05:15 PM
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There are so many things that could be wrong here, but none directed to the connections you worked on. Yet.

About 12 volts doesn't cut it.





Could be a full charge, or 50% dead.

More accurate voltage reading, and voltage then the starter is being engaged would be better. But to not fry the FICM with a low voltage situation (if it's not already), the batteries should be pulled and tested for capacity at AutoZone, Advance, etc.

Also pictures of the top of the batteries to show the connections would help.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 05:42 PM
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Thank You. I will have him take some battery top pictures. Tomorrow i am having him swap out the batteries for the batteries that are in my 7.3L. They are new and I know they are fully charged.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 07:17 PM
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 07:19 PM
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So today I had him put my batteries in his truck. My batteries were also only at around 12.2v. He turned it to accessory only and the injectors buzzed. Tomorrow he is going to Costco to get new betteries and we will see what happens? Is it possible the batteries are so bad that it wont even let the scanner be recognized but the lights will work on the dash?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 10:13 PM
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I've never had a situation with my truck where the voltage was way low, is someone else will have to respond for that. Low voltage can keep the starter from spinning over the threshold rpm t trigger a start. And the FICM is sensitive to any voltage drop during an attempted start when it drops to 9.2v or lower.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2019 | 02:19 AM
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Scan tools won't connect at 8.5v and below. I suspect that there might be scan tool connectivity issues even at voltages a little higher. A static battery voltage of 12v doesn't relate to these issues. You need to see what happens to vehicle voltage during the heavy electrical draw of glow plugs, and the starter.

The engine definitely won't start at 8v. You also need 150 cranking rpms to start.
 
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