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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 09:17 PM
  #16  
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MBaldo
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-24mm I believe

They stick out perfectly, if you add Fender Flares. Without Flares, they stick out a little too far, for my liking anyway. That photo is before I added the Bushwacker Fender Flares.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 09:19 PM
  #17  
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Even with Flares, they are out a bit. 11.5 wide Nitto RG's may have been perfect.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 09:26 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MBaldo

Even with Flares, they are out a bit. 11.5 wide Nitto RG's may have been perfect.
Thanks, looks great!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 09:29 PM
  #19  
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Thanks! It's been a work in progress for sure.

Fuel Lethal Model # D56720008245
Definitely -24
3,700 lb rating (I pull a 44' Toy Hauler)
 
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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 10:02 PM
  #20  
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I just installed the 2.5 Readylift with trackbar relocation bracket.I have never done anything like this in my life and with a $1000 quote for install I decided to try it myself.It was super easy to install with basic tools.On my 250 I still have 1 inch of rake.I think the truck rides exactly as stock.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 12:04 AM
  #21  
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check out 4 wheel parts- Procomp nitro level lift.... I did 3.5" front/1"rear believe you can have other height options to fit what u are looking to do. think I spent $1000 installed
 
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 10:52 PM
  #22  
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So, after considering, I think I definitely want around a 2" level and no more. While that isn't a lot, I also don't want to risk ride quality. I'm 40 years old. While not old, I don't want a $75k truck that rides like a lifted 1990 Toyota. I take this truck on some pretty long road trips, sometimes with a 6000 boat behind me, and most often with my wife and 3 kids with me. I also use the truck as a daily driver and have business partners, clients, etc riding with me. So, even if it costs more, I want the best ride quality I can get. Is the Carli that much better and worth the money, or will I even be able to tell a difference with a 2" level?

Also, attached is a photo of my truck with the new tires. I went with Nitto Ridge Grappler 35 x 11.5 x 20's, and I think they look great. I didn't want the 12.5's because I wanted the tires to barely stick out further than the wheel wells and I like a skinnier tire to resist hydroplaning in rainy weather. These aren't disappointing and I think they look great with the OEM wheels. I don't even want to change out the wheels and put aftermarket on. I love it just the way it is.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 09:37 AM
  #23  
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so I can even notice a 1" level


pre 1" level (and pre grill)

1" level

1" level


I also don't like any rear rake while towing so I also wanted a 1-2" only level. See below before 1" level and after.

 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 10:02 AM
  #24  
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Just lower the rear 1”,, will level cheap, won’t have to mess with TB, or alignment
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 10:49 AM
  #25  
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Anyone found a set of leveling springs around 2" that are for use with the 6.2 gas engine? All the leveling kits I have found are for the diesel which is around 800 lbs heavier.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 02:36 PM
  #26  
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Just to add my 2 cents in here (slow day at work). Your best bang for the buck are spacers. $50 for parts and whatever for the install, unless your a DIY'er. Especially if you have the 5,200lb springs, nothing else is required. If you have the 6,000lb springs (as it would then sit 1"- 1 1/4" higher) then either new longer shocks or extension brackets will be best but not 100% required. The only thing that will happen is your front axle will be shifted slight toward the driver's side, and none of them are dead on from the factory. As you're not relocating the axle linkage no adjustment will be needed, not even centering of your steering wheel. This is because the distance from your steering sector to axle has not changed, the only thing that changes is where the axle sits in relation to the truck. If you do do a track bar or track bar bracket you will have to adjust the length of your drag link to re-center your steering wheel.

Amazon Amazon

A word of caution when buying a spacer "kit". Make sure the bolt supplied with it is hardened and not stainless. I know the spacer only takes a load vertically and all lateral forces are taken by the control arms but dang if I'm putting a brittle SS bolt in my suspension.

Below is a link to my lift post with pics.... I went over kill and bought all the parts to place the axle exactly where I wanted it but that is me and I maybe going higher some time in the future.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18482652
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 03:27 PM
  #27  
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I "think" that when I get ready to level I will likely replace the radius arms with Carli and some good King 2.5 pin tops all around at that time, but need to contact Carli about a level for a gas engine truck rather than a diesel so I can plan this stuff out better. Already learned that lesson the hard way on my dodge. I wanted to go with Carli unchained but since I installed twin turbos, there wasn't room for the exotic shock towers to fit the 3" King shocks so couldn't do that.

Anyway best to plan ahead for desired end result making sure everything comes together smoothly.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 05:34 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rewillia
Here's mine leveled, completed yesterday; 19 SD F250 6.7L CCSB FX4, Front +2" BDS under-coil pods with new track-bar bracket and Rear -1.5" Spacer drop; Bilstien 5100's (both F&R) and Nitto RG 35/12.50/r20 F-125Q's on stock OEM 20x8J 40mm wheel set including matching 5th spare Wheel/Tire underneath.

Looking for Advice!

Since having the leveling worked done
as described above last week (which was done with only 280 miles on the stock truck) I was only able to drive the truck locally, until a few days ago when I drove a one way distance of 200 miles on the highway (to start a new job) where while on the road I since have experienced both some "minor" bump steer (i.e. on expansion joints, pot holes, etc.) as well as a very slight pull to the right (almost unnoticeable) yet enough that I need to maintain corrective hold on the steering wheel at highway speeds and such that I am concerned as "something" is clearly not right (and pissed about it)!

I called the shop that did the leveling and installed the 35/12.50/r20's on it for me and they said, "well maybe you threw a well weight off of one of the front tires or maybe the alignment shop they use missed something!". - to which does not inspire confidence (to me) that I choose the right 4x4 off road shop to do the work for me. Since I'm now 200 miles away and have started a new job, I don't have the time to take the truck back to them so I've scheduled a service appointment with a big Ford Dealer here in Houston (Joe Myers' Ford) next week to have them check and/or do an alignment and re-balancing of all four tires as the 1st step and will have to wait to get the results of their findings. Note: all four shocks were also changed out to the Bilstien 5100's in part with the leveling work performed. (I have also since looked and verified that the wheel weights are in place on the inside of both front wheels)

Not knowing much about what's involved or all the options to be considered in terms of leveling a truck, The shop that did my work had first quoted me the cost of the leveling/lift and installation to include replacement of the OEM track bar with an adjustable one of which I accepted but once the work was completed they stated that changing the track-bar was ultimately not needed since they replaced the OEM track-bar bracket instead{?}, so here I am now at the mercy of finding another shop (or the Ford Dealer I'm going to take it to) to get this right.

Was I wrong to expect (or mislead to be believe) that leveling the stance of my truck and upsizing to the stated tire type/size as indicated would not result in my truck having a far "harsher" ride and noticeable feedback at the steering wheel as I am encountering?

I knew "going in" that by upsizing from the stock LT 275/65/r20 Michelins to the 35/12.50/r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers I would be sacrificing some degree of ride quality simply do to the difference in tread pattern and the 'footprint" of the wider tires - but I did not expect it to be what I am currently experiencing.

​​​​​​
Am I missing something (information/knowledge) as to what to expect)?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 08:40 AM
  #29  
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^ This is what I'm afraid of and why I'm asking so many questions. This is an expensive truck. I want it to look good, but I don't want to sacrifice it driving and riding good simply for a change in looks.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 09:04 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mayberry32
^ This is what I'm afraid of and why I'm asking so many questions. This is an expensive truck. I want it to look good, but I don't want to sacrifice it driving and riding good simply for a change in looks.
That was my quest and expectation as well and I think its obtainable - only maybe i got a bad set-up to begin with or something was overlooked either during the installation or alignment!

And, There are too many here (forum) who express their happiness with their truck's performance in terms of ride quality, etc. (after leveling) to think otherwise - or else many others than myself would be raising similar concerns.

I'll remain optimistic for now with the hopes of getting this resolved as soon as possible (note: since making the initial 200 mile drive after the leveling and tires were installed, my truck was delivered on the same afternoon to the shop in Houston (Zenith Auto Spa) that has since had it and is doing the full clear-bra and Nano Ceramic coating on it thus I won't get it back until next Tuesday. The earliest appointment I could get for a Ford alignment specialist (Joe Myers's Ford Service - Houston) to check it was on the 23rd (2-weeks from today) as their senior tech is away on vacation. Owing to my 2019 truck only being 2-weeks old (per say since I purchased it), and currently having less than 600 miles on it, I particularly want a Ford-trained alignment specialist to look at the truck and ensure it's set up correctly.

The issue I see in part with doing any kind of modification like this (leveling & tires) is finding the right shop that will honestly tell you what works right and what won't work and not try to sell you something simply because it's their biggest profit generator for them (as I presently feel I may have fallen prey to). I will most certainly be going back to the shop (200 miles away) that originally did my lift and tire installation once I've gotten to the bottom of this and resolved the issues I am experiencing and let them know (to include my bringing with me any invoices for associated cost to correct the matter)!

I was also quite a bit "put out" after speaking with them when I called during the 200 mile drive to report what I was experiencing (minor bump steer and slight pulling to the right) to which they seem to quickly "shrug off" as being the matter of a wheel balancing issue - again, losing confidence real quickly that I choose the right shop to do my work to begin with! (they did the tire mount and balancing also).
 
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