What do I need?
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Thornton CO
What do I need?
So I live up in Colorado and I tried to start my truck after the snowfall. I cranked it until my batteries gave out so I gave em a charge a couple days later because Im kinda lazy. After I replaced both of em I tried to start up and it cranked for a couple seconds then winded down. I replaced my starter last year so that's not an issue as far as I know. Could it be a fuse? Could it be an ignition issue? Could it be a faulty solenoid like I've been reading? I'm no mechanic so I go to you guys since apparently this forum is the only place to learn how to work on our kind of trucks. If anybody could shed some light on this subject it would be fantastic. If not I'm just gonna call a mechanic. Thanks anyways guys you're all awesome!!
BTW I have a 1986 Ford f250 RWD 4SPEED 6.9 LITRE
BTW I have a 1986 Ford f250 RWD 4SPEED 6.9 LITRE
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 178
Likes: 3
A few things could cause the symptoms you describe here. Could be Jelled Fuel, which would require additive to be put in the fuel tanks, or in the fuel filter directly. A way you could tell, is if the engine is trying to start, and it is spinning it rather fast, then the tail pipe should be putting out smoke of some sort. If not, you are not getting fuel, and it most likely is jelled. The fuel solenoid could be bad, but it is unlikely. Also, if the batteries are weak, or the starter is weak, it could not spin the motor fast enough to start it. Even with glow plugs. But with the temperatures here, Jello fuel could very well be the case.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
So you took your batteries and depleted them and left them to die in cold weather? Yeah they won't ever hold a full charge again. That's why you are getting very little cranking out of them. Block heater plugged in, working flow plugs and a battery tender are pretty much required to get these to start in cold weather.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,978
Likes: 514
From: Edmond, OK
Also, what is the condition of your battery cables? There are quite a few threads on our site where members replace old, crispy battery cables with new ones and cure starting problems. The starters on our engines pull a TON of current. 
Elder User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 695
Likes: 22
Yes they will, it's a known fact totally dead batteries have to be left that way for a period of time for them to sulfate. If you catch them quickly, they will charge up and be fine. And like Vegetable O said, first thing to check is make sure you fuel was winterized.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 45
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From: Thornton CO
My battery cables have just a little bit of corrosion but it's not much. I brushed most of it off with a cleaner. So when I crank it the starter spins up real fast then sounds like my batteries are gone but I know they're not. I have work today so I'm gonna test em tomorrow and figure that out. Would it be a fuse problem? Sorry I'm just at a loss for options since I'm not savvy with this as much
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
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If the batteries check out good it's most likely the starter. If your pretty mechanically inclined you can disassemble the starter and clean up all the inner contacts where the brushes meet the rotor and such. There's not much to em and I've saved many a starters by just doing that.
All the remanufactures do is change what's bad, you don't get anywhere near a new starter..that's why remans have such a bad rep
All the remanufactures do is change what's bad, you don't get anywhere near a new starter..that's why remans have such a bad rep
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
10-4 on that top bolt being a PITA to locate. First time I replaced the starter a couple yrs back, some prior
owner idiot used 10mm 12pt bolts. It was difficult to find with the years of grime build up.
Replaced the bolts with 9/16" 6pt heads. I just removed the starter to replace the block heater and that top
bolt is still a bit difficult to find. I use a light that straps to my head with about 250 lumens to light up the area
and a mirror on a stick to see just where the dang bolt is.
Iam trying to visualize a bolt 8 inches long with a nut for the top bolt. How does that work???
Charlie
owner idiot used 10mm 12pt bolts. It was difficult to find with the years of grime build up.
Replaced the bolts with 9/16" 6pt heads. I just removed the starter to replace the block heater and that top
bolt is still a bit difficult to find. I use a light that straps to my head with about 250 lumens to light up the area
and a mirror on a stick to see just where the dang bolt is.
Iam trying to visualize a bolt 8 inches long with a nut for the top bolt. How does that work???
Charlie
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,978
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From: Edmond, OK
Charlie, I got a 9/16" grade 5 bolt that was 8" long. Then threaded a nylon lock nut on the bolt far enough up so that the 8" bolt would fit snug against the starter. The 8" bolt extends all the way to just behind the starter solenoid. It is much easier to remove. I tried it with a 6" bolt and it was too short.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
Gotcha...
So thread on the 2 nuts, one being a lock nut. Mount starter with the 2 lower bolts, then screw in the
long bolt and snug it up. Then tighten the 2 nuts against the starter.
So next time it has to be removed, just loosen the bolt by it`s head which is just behind the Solenoid.
The 2 nuts just stay where they are, locked together
That is why these Forums are so good, guys coming up with new ideas, ways to cut corners and helping
ea other out. Iam slooowly learning about this ole Ford.....then pass on to the next guy your knowledge.
Charlie
So thread on the 2 nuts, one being a lock nut. Mount starter with the 2 lower bolts, then screw in the
long bolt and snug it up. Then tighten the 2 nuts against the starter.
So next time it has to be removed, just loosen the bolt by it`s head which is just behind the Solenoid.
The 2 nuts just stay where they are, locked together
That is why these Forums are so good, guys coming up with new ideas, ways to cut corners and helping
ea other out. Iam slooowly learning about this ole Ford.....then pass on to the next guy your knowledge.
Charlie
Elder User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 695
Likes: 22
Your original starter bolts are either 5/16 or 3/8 standard thread, can't remember which, but they're not metric, . Bolts are measured by thread diameter, not what size wrench fits the bolt head. 3/8" bolt takes a 9/16 socket, 5/16 bolt, 1/2" socket. If you use the right length extension and 3/8" drive ratchet and a wobble socket (flex socket) it's easy to access the top starter bolt. Feel for the bolt with your left hand and slide the socket on while holding the ratchet with your right. You always undo the hard to get to bolt first and install it last. The right length extension will be long enough to fit beyond the end of the starter but short enough so the crossmember or motor mount doesn't interfere.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
Raymond, you are correct. I said 10mm, that was the only socket I found that fit the head of the bolts.
A 10mm 12pt.
I have mostly metric tools, since since 1981 I bought a Datsun Diesel PU, and then from 97 on...I have
a bunch of Mercedes Diesels from the 80`s time period. Still have the Datsun, and a Nissan Diesel PU.
Since I bought the Ford, I have been slowly accumulating SAE tools.
Charlie
A 10mm 12pt.
I have mostly metric tools, since since 1981 I bought a Datsun Diesel PU, and then from 97 on...I have
a bunch of Mercedes Diesels from the 80`s time period. Still have the Datsun, and a Nissan Diesel PU.
Since I bought the Ford, I have been slowly accumulating SAE tools.
Charlie