More oil concerns
#1
More oil concerns
I changed the oil & filter on my 2000 F250 V10 (4x4, AT, Supercab) for the first time, 4500 miles ago, two days after I got it. No oil on the dipstick prior to the change and drained 2.5 quarts of dirty oil from the pan and filter (no idea of when the last change was). I have been driving mostly on the highway with only 1 day of towing a small trailer and have put 4500 miles on it in 1 month. Used 6.5 quarts of 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic and a Baldwin filter. I was checking my dipstick at every gas fill (that's a lot of checks by the way) on a trip to North Carolina and it was always fine. Have recently been driving 70 miles each way twice a week on the Interstate and just checked the stick to find nothing on it. Please don't exile me from the site, but I had not checked my dipstick for about two weeks before this. Drained the pan of only 3.5 quarts of slightly dirty oil, but not bad. No signs of leaks and not smoking (truck runs great). So, basically, the truck has used almost 3 quarts on oil in the past 3000 miles. Is this normal for a V10?
I just changed the oil and filter again; 6.5 quarts of Castrol 5W30 dino and a Baldwin filter. I'll keep more accurate checks on it this time and let everyone know how it goes.
BTW, no dummy lights activated and factory oil pressure gauge reading fine when I got the truck with only 2.5 quarts of oil in it. Needless to say, I'll be installing extra real gauges soon. Any comments on the Baldwin filters? Does anyone know how good the anti drain back valve is on this filter?
I just changed the oil and filter again; 6.5 quarts of Castrol 5W30 dino and a Baldwin filter. I'll keep more accurate checks on it this time and let everyone know how it goes.
BTW, no dummy lights activated and factory oil pressure gauge reading fine when I got the truck with only 2.5 quarts of oil in it. Needless to say, I'll be installing extra real gauges soon. Any comments on the Baldwin filters? Does anyone know how good the anti drain back valve is on this filter?
#2
Well...I can hear the bullets whizzing and the daggers whirring...but I think its the Mobil 1. I can't explain it, but my engine will use (consume, burn...whatever) a quart of M1 in 2000 miles. Where it goes I do not know.
I went back to Castrol 5W30 and no problems. I pull a load of anywhere from 10K to 15K every weekend - hard pulling on backroads - and its still on the full mark with about 3100 miles on this change.
I don't know how much dino oil yours uses (or even if you've checked that part) but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I went back to Castrol 5W30 and no problems. I pull a load of anywhere from 10K to 15K every weekend - hard pulling on backroads - and its still on the full mark with about 3100 miles on this change.
I don't know how much dino oil yours uses (or even if you've checked that part) but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
#3
Originally posted by Big Orn
Well...I can hear the bullets whizzing and the daggers whirring...but I think its the Mobil 1. I can't explain it, but my engine will use (consume, burn...whatever) a quart of M1 in 2000 miles. Where it goes I do not know.
I went back to Castrol 5W30 and no problems. I pull a load of anywhere from 10K to 15K every weekend - hard pulling on backroads - and its still on the full mark with about 3100 miles on this change.
I don't know how much dino oil yours uses (or even if you've checked that part) but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Well...I can hear the bullets whizzing and the daggers whirring...but I think its the Mobil 1. I can't explain it, but my engine will use (consume, burn...whatever) a quart of M1 in 2000 miles. Where it goes I do not know.
I went back to Castrol 5W30 and no problems. I pull a load of anywhere from 10K to 15K every weekend - hard pulling on backroads - and its still on the full mark with about 3100 miles on this change.
I don't know how much dino oil yours uses (or even if you've checked that part) but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
But; do you think the Mobil 1 is being burned in your engine ? I don't know why that wouldn't be possible, seems logical to me. If it's not leaking, if it's not going into your coolant system it has to be combusted, right ? 1 quart per thousand miles, let's see average speed traveled in America is 35 mph. At 35 mph the V-10 is turning let's say 1500 rpm (just for giggles) So 35 mph it takes 28.5 hours or 1710 minutes to go a thousand miles times 1500 rpm is 2,565,000 rpm in every one thousand miles, divided by how many drops in one quart is how many drops would be burnt by each rpm. So, .001 drop per rpm isn't too bad, is it ?
#4
Originally posted by ken04
... do you think the Mobil 1 is being burned in your engine?
... do you think the Mobil 1 is being burned in your engine?
Wish I had the the answer, ken, but maybe if I keep looking and reading I'll find it.
#6
Originally posted by Big Orn
That's the only logical explanation, but I cannot explain why. I would love to run Mobil 1 if for nothing else for the way it quietens down the early-morning rattle. But, for a lack of a better explanation - if Castrol doesn't go away (burn, whatever) then I guess I'll stay with it.
Wish I had the the answer, ken, but maybe if I keep looking and reading I'll find it.
That's the only logical explanation, but I cannot explain why. I would love to run Mobil 1 if for nothing else for the way it quietens down the early-morning rattle. But, for a lack of a better explanation - if Castrol doesn't go away (burn, whatever) then I guess I'll stay with it.
Wish I had the the answer, ken, but maybe if I keep looking and reading I'll find it.
#7
The way I see it, it comes down to $$$. If my truck is going to use oil that fast, I might as well use the much cheaper dino and get three oil changes for the price of one. Now that I'm turning into a penny pincher (have to to be able to afford the gas to drive the thing), how cheap are Motorcraft oil filters at Wally World? I'm paying almost $6 for Baldwin oil filters at a Big Rig shop. Funny though, the Baldwin air filter is $2 cheaper than the Fram at WW.
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#8
Originally posted by ken04
And here I started out today whistling a happy tune,,,,, egads, it sucks to be ****-retentive,,,,,,
And here I started out today whistling a happy tune,,,,, egads, it sucks to be ****-retentive,,,,,,
Originally posted by brcowan
How cheap are Motorcraft oil filters at Wally World? I'm paying almost $6 for Baldwin oil filters at a Big Rig shop. Funny though, the Baldwin air filter is $2 cheaper than the Fram at WW.
How cheap are Motorcraft oil filters at Wally World? I'm paying almost $6 for Baldwin oil filters at a Big Rig shop. Funny though, the Baldwin air filter is $2 cheaper than the Fram at WW.
#9
Synthetic oil has a lower surface tension than dino oil. It'll ooze out of places that dino will not. Like across the hash-marks from cylinder honing, through the space left by the ring end-gap, out your valve cover gasket, etc.
A quick google search for "oil consumption surface tension" yielded some good reading.
Lower surface tension helps initial oil-up though, especially when cold.
And, if the gaskets are good, it won't ooze out there. I would think it's only on marginal gaskets, or ones with surface imperfections that would allow synth to ooze. Like the old cork ones I have on my FE390's valve covers
ak
A quick google search for "oil consumption surface tension" yielded some good reading.
Lower surface tension helps initial oil-up though, especially when cold.
And, if the gaskets are good, it won't ooze out there. I would think it's only on marginal gaskets, or ones with surface imperfections that would allow synth to ooze. Like the old cork ones I have on my FE390's valve covers
ak
#10
Originally posted by Big Orn
You always crack me up with this sort of reply, ken
Now you're talking. Stick with the Motorcraft. Its safe and effective. I think they're under $3 here.
You always crack me up with this sort of reply, ken
Now you're talking. Stick with the Motorcraft. Its safe and effective. I think they're under $3 here.
And yea, Wally World Motorcraft filters are $3-ish, I buy mine there for both my Fords along with Mobil 1 in the 5 quart jug. I tried to buy plugs (Motorcraft) for my Zetec motor there too, but they did not carry them. So $12 each at the Ford dealer,,,,,gag, $12 each plug, that's what, 1200 percent mark up ?
#11
Originally posted by krewat
Synthetic oil has a lower surface tension than dino oil. It'll ooze out of places that dino will not. Like across the hash-marks from cylinder honing, through the space left by the ring end-gap, out your valve cover gasket, etc.
A quick google search for "oil consumption surface tension" yielded some good reading.
Lower surface tension helps initial oil-up though, especially when cold.
And, if the gaskets are good, it won't ooze out there. I would think it's only on marginal gaskets, or ones with surface imperfections that would allow synth to ooze. Like the old cork ones I have on my FE390's valve covers
ak
Synthetic oil has a lower surface tension than dino oil. It'll ooze out of places that dino will not. Like across the hash-marks from cylinder honing, through the space left by the ring end-gap, out your valve cover gasket, etc.
A quick google search for "oil consumption surface tension" yielded some good reading.
Lower surface tension helps initial oil-up though, especially when cold.
And, if the gaskets are good, it won't ooze out there. I would think it's only on marginal gaskets, or ones with surface imperfections that would allow synth to ooze. Like the old cork ones I have on my FE390's valve covers
ak
#12
Originally posted by ken04
As i understand it some of the early synth oils would and could leak past gaskets, and also would not allow gaskets to swell and therefore seal correctly. But that was old technology synth oils. Is your reference including current, new tech synth oils ?
As i understand it some of the early synth oils would and could leak past gaskets, and also would not allow gaskets to swell and therefore seal correctly. But that was old technology synth oils. Is your reference including current, new tech synth oils ?
Seeing as many people report using more synth than dino, it just makes sense. I know a few people that used synth (Mobil 1 and others) and noticed weeping at gaskets they didn't have with dino. And that's within the last 2-3 years...
Anecdotal information, yes, but worth thinking about.
ak
#13
I am using Amsoil 0W30 in my V10. It runs 4500 to 6000 miles per quart usage. I only change the oil at 25,000, the filter at 12.5 and 25.
I have never had a Triton 4.6/5.4/6.8 use more than 1 quart per 4000 miles, even when towing.
I can't figure how the Mobil 1 could be causing the high consumption--gasket leaks would show somewhere.
Run a compression test to see how the rings are seated.
Good luck.
I have never had a Triton 4.6/5.4/6.8 use more than 1 quart per 4000 miles, even when towing.
I can't figure how the Mobil 1 could be causing the high consumption--gasket leaks would show somewhere.
Run a compression test to see how the rings are seated.
Good luck.
#15