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With how destroyed that bearing is, I bet the input shaft is smoked. Also the flywheel surface has defined spots on it. Is that a single or dual mass flywheel?
Which picture you looking at . At first thought I took out the whole pilot bearing when I took out the inner part so I still got to pull the whole Bearing out and I'm not sure I'm pretty sure everything is stock
Okay so I got everything put back in for the most part no I'm left with the transfer case shifter and I believe the inner part of the bushing that is on the inner part of the sleeve fell apart and crumbled due to wear now it's just a bowl and it has extra space around it does anyone know what I should get for it and replacement ???
If I recall, there's a kind of nipple that holds the transfer case shifters to the links. That parts' alright and it holds in place?
If it's just the middle contact part of a bushing, I use an aluminum coke can to make replacements.
Trim to width, ex. 3/8 and cut a long strip, wrap turns around a smaller diameter pin and trim by trial and error to the correct wall size. Usually a couple turns.
My clutch rod has a beer can bushing, works great and keeps slop /hardened metal on metal contact from egging out holes. My clutch rod is perfect circle and no slop/clean operation with the coke can bushing. I seen some eggs in pics online without a bushing. Cost is free and takes 7 min 35 seconds.
not really necessary, but if you'd like lube, grind up a pencil lead and smear the graphite on the bushing, again don't need to.. And don't get the pencil lead on clothes /fabric.
They last a long time, even with no grease, and next time you take it apart, just replace it if it shows signs of wear.
If I recall, there's a kind of nipple that holds the transfer case shifters to the links. That parts' alright and it holds in place?
If it's just the middle contact part of a bushing, I use an aluminum coke can to make replacements.
Trim to width, ex. 3/8 and cut a long strip, wrap turns around a smaller diameter pin and trim by trial and error to the correct wall size. Usually a couple turns.
My clutch rod has a beer can bushing, works great and keeps slop /hardened metal on metal contact from egging out holes. My clutch rod is perfect circle and no slop/clean operation with the coke can bushing. I seen some eggs in pics online without a bushing. Cost is free and takes 7 min 35 seconds.
not really necessary, but if you'd like lube, grind up a pencil lead and smear the graphite on the bushing, again don't need to.. And don't get the pencil lead on clothes /fabric.
They last a long time, even with no grease, and next time you take it apart, just replace it if it shows signs of wear.
I'll have to try that for my clutch pedal bushing as when I reworked it, it was so tight the stock bushing wouldn't fit.
Pencil lead is also graphite so I see as to why it makes a great lubricant
So heeehe another question I got everything put back together I crank on it an realized even when the truck was off I couldn't shift I know hydraulic can be the cause with the truck running but off it Should shift. I did remove the top of the transmission to look an inspection the inside but when I put it back on it was in gear cause it wouldn't go back on any other way except 3rd I think not sure if I lined the gears up incorrect but it bolted up and went in smooth. So my question is since I did all that with the tranny out do I have to take the tranny out again to install it correctly?? Cause I tried taking it off again and couldn't I used the puddy like build a gasket that comes in a tube and not sure if it just is being stubborn due to using the buildagasket?
You probably missed where its supposed to shift. I'd pull it off and see if you can align it to neutral first with a screwdriver or something then stab it again
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