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Clutch/ flywheel help !

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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 09:54 PM
  #16  
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Yah its not too bad, except its heavy as @#$% and hard to hold with one hand while you try and put the bolts back in with the other hand.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 09:58 PM
  #17  
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What's the todqto for the bolts
 
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 10:02 PM
  #18  
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With how destroyed that bearing is, I bet the input shaft is smoked. Also the flywheel surface has defined spots on it. Is that a single or dual mass flywheel?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 10:41 PM
  #19  
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Which picture you looking at . At first thought I took out the whole pilot bearing when I took out the inner part so I still got to pull the whole Bearing out and I'm not sure I'm pretty sure everything is stock
​​​​​​
 
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 12:45 PM
  #20  
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This looks good right?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 08:21 PM
  #21  
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Yeah, that's the back of an IDI crank. Might want to put in a new rear main seal, though...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2019 | 02:28 PM
  #22  
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Okay so I got everything put back in for the most part no I'm left with the transfer case shifter and I believe the inner part of the bushing that is on the inner part of the sleeve fell apart and crumbled due to wear now it's just a bowl and it has extra space around it does anyone know what I should get for it and replacement ???
 
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Old Mar 24, 2019 | 01:14 AM
  #23  
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If I recall, there's a kind of nipple that holds the transfer case shifters to the links. That parts' alright and it holds in place?

If it's just the middle contact part of a bushing, I use an aluminum coke can to make replacements.

Trim to width, ex. 3/8 and cut a long strip, wrap turns around a smaller diameter pin and trim by trial and error to the correct wall size. Usually a couple turns.

My clutch rod has a beer can bushing, works great and keeps slop /hardened metal on metal contact from egging out holes. My clutch rod is perfect circle and no slop/clean operation with the coke can bushing. I seen some eggs in pics online without a bushing. Cost is free and takes 7 min 35 seconds.

not really necessary, but if you'd like lube, grind up a pencil lead and smear the graphite on the bushing, again don't need to.. And don't get the pencil lead on clothes /fabric.

They last a long time, even with no grease, and next time you take it apart, just replace it if it shows signs of wear.

​​​​​
 
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Old Mar 24, 2019 | 01:41 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Leroy Unlisted
If I recall, there's a kind of nipple that holds the transfer case shifters to the links. That parts' alright and it holds in place?

If it's just the middle contact part of a bushing, I use an aluminum coke can to make replacements.

Trim to width, ex. 3/8 and cut a long strip, wrap turns around a smaller diameter pin and trim by trial and error to the correct wall size. Usually a couple turns.

My clutch rod has a beer can bushing, works great and keeps slop /hardened metal on metal contact from egging out holes. My clutch rod is perfect circle and no slop/clean operation with the coke can bushing. I seen some eggs in pics online without a bushing. Cost is free and takes 7 min 35 seconds.

not really necessary, but if you'd like lube, grind up a pencil lead and smear the graphite on the bushing, again don't need to.. And don't get the pencil lead on clothes /fabric.

They last a long time, even with no grease, and next time you take it apart, just replace it if it shows signs of wear.

​​​​​
I'll have to try that for my clutch pedal bushing as when I reworked it, it was so tight the stock bushing wouldn't fit.

Pencil lead is also graphite so I see as to why it makes a great lubricant
 
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Old Mar 24, 2019 | 04:37 PM
  #25  
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Old Mar 24, 2019 | 10:57 PM
  #26  
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So heeehe another question I got everything put back together I crank on it an realized even when the truck was off I couldn't shift I know hydraulic can be the cause with the truck running but off it Should shift. I did remove the top of the transmission to look an inspection the inside but when I put it back on it was in gear cause it wouldn't go back on any other way except 3rd I think not sure if I lined the gears up incorrect but it bolted up and went in smooth. So my question is since I did all that with the tranny out do I have to take the tranny out again to install it correctly?? Cause I tried taking it off again and couldn't I used the puddy like build a gasket that comes in a tube and not sure if it just is being stubborn due to using the buildagasket?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2019 | 11:35 AM
  #27  
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You probably missed where its supposed to shift. I'd pull it off and see if you can align it to neutral first with a screwdriver or something then stab it again
 
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Old Mar 25, 2019 | 11:52 AM
  #28  
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Do I have to pull the tranny again or can I do it now with it already installed
 
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Old Mar 25, 2019 | 05:25 PM
  #29  
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Shouldn't have to, your zf5 right? If you are the shifter bolts in half under the boot and with it shorter it's easier to line up
 
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Old Mar 25, 2019 | 06:24 PM
  #30  
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No t19 4 speed
 
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