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While waiting for my 56 in the bodyshop I decided to work on my newly acquired 53 Panel. I had to remove the wheels to work on the king Pins (frozen). I Found out there were no brake parts on either front wheel. I decided to just bite the bullet and install front disk brakes as well as king pins. King pins went well, other than machining is a little pricey $100.00 to remove & install the bushings and ream them. When I went to install the CPP inner wheel bearing adapter it just spins on the spindle. In their paperwork (and from prior installs) the adapters should need to be pressed on or heated to allow them to fit on the spindle snuggly. These spin with no resistance. I contacted CPP tech support and they sent me adapter specs and asked me to mic the ones I currently have.
Adapters ID Specs 1.3125 +.0000 / -0015
my Adapters are both 1.304
my spindle is 1.313
While CPP hasn’t given me a final response the Tech guy did say that I might have to use JB Weld on them. What do you all think about JB Weld on a spindle?
I contacted CPP tech support and they sent me adapter specs and asked me to mic the ones I currently have.
Adapters ID Specs 1.3125 +.0000 / -0015
my Adapters are both 1.304
my spindle is 1.313
While CPP hasn’t given me a final response the Tech guy did say that I might have to use JB Weld on them. What do you all think about JB Weld on a spindle?
Maybe I'm confused, but isn't 1.304 smaller than 1.313?
The tolerances may be small enough that it might not matter, but my first thought would be how to get the adapters centered on the spindle while the JB Weld cured. I see a hub wobble in your future. I don't think I would trust it in a load application like that. If they can't send you different adapters that fit tight, perhaps you might want to try different spindles.
Maybe I'm confused, but isn't 1.304 smaller than 1.313?
The tolerances may be small enough that it might not matter, but my first thought would be how to get the adapters centered on the spindle while the JB Weld cured. I see a hub wobble in your future. I don't think I would trust it in a load application like that. If they can't send you different adapters that fit tight, perhaps you might want to try different spindles.
Not sure what’s up. I agree that 1.304 is smaller than 1.313. So I went back to measure them again. Same ID of adapter is 1.304, OD of spindle is 1.313 but the adapters spin on the spindles? I’m using a HF INSIDE/OUT SIDE 6” digital caliper. Just checked the king pins. The bushing is smaller than the pin??? Guess I’ve gotta get a different caliper.
BJ, I put mine on and they also were a slip fit. It seems I asked around about it and was told to go ahead and try it, which I did. I now have the truck running and everything is great with the brakes. I used the plates and ordered new bearings/races and seals, and used Ford rotors and the Chevy calipers as they said. Only problem I had was the first calipers I got were for the light duty brake and weren't wide enough with the Ford rotors. Then I called their tech line and was told I needed the calipers of a 87 Chevy PU with HD brakes. Then it all worked good. It is in my build thread towards the front I think if you want to see it. Greg.
Had the same issues with the kit I got from Speedway, they sent new adapters and they still didn't fit snug on the spindle. I ended up tack welding them so they would stay put. Also had to polish the outside dia. so the bearing would slide on without binding........... so far so good
BJ my adapters fit on the spindle loose enough where I can remove them but most of the time when I pull the rotor off the adapter stays in the rotor held by the seal.
With the adapter loose I’d be afraid the adapter will spin and ruin the spindle.
That is exactly what will happen. It can lead to a dangerous condition of potential failure of any or all of the affected parts. Tack welding could be an option if proper replacements can't be procured. The adapter definitely needs to be solidly attached.
I am certain there are engineering specification for fit on such applications. Sounds like the spacer was designed to be an interference fit. Be mindful the bearing inner race is designed to be a slip fit onto the spindle and when adjustment and lubrication are right, they don't spin on the spindles.
Personally, I would not weld nor use any JB Weld product that I am familiar with. They may have something new that I am unaware of. If I felt the clearance was too great for my comfort, I would investigate a sleeve or a product by "Loctite" that is used on worn splines. I've used the Loctite product on tractors and it held up well.
JB, did you ever get accurate dimensions?
I am certain there are engineering specification for fit on such applications. Sounds like the spacer was designed to be an interference fit. Be mindful the bearing inner race is designed to be a slip fit onto the spindle and when adjustment and lubrication are right, they don't spin on the spindles.
Personally, I would not weld nor use any JB Weld product that I am familiar with. They may have something new that I am unaware of. If I felt the clearance was too great for my comfort, I would investigate a sleeve or a product by "Loctite" that is used on worn splines. I've used the Loctite product on tractors and it held up well.
JB, did you ever get accurate dimensions?
You are correct, Ray, that the spacer is designed to be an interference fit. The idea is for it to be an extension of the spindle to take up the space between where the smaller, original OEM spec bearing would ride, and the larger diameter bearing of the new, replacement hub. It needs to fit tight for it and the bearing to do their jobs, as designed. I see the problem as being an incorrect manufacture/machining of the spacer. Unfortunately this is way too typical of the aftermarket parts we get, not only for our trucks, but the entire restoration hobby as a whole. Or, in the words of the illustrious Maxwell Smart, "Missed it by that much."
This stuff is specifically made for this purpose. Easy to apply, not a permanent or destructive mod like welding, and that adapter is NOT coming back off without the assistance of a propane torch.
On my 51 F1, the instructions called for gluing the adapters to the spindles with Loctite. Like yours, mine were a little too loose for my comfort, so I chucked the spindles up on my lathe and knurled the spindles where the adapter sits. I had to heat the adapter and chill the spindle to assemble. I still used the Loctite just to be sure.
My lathe is a 14" with a 12" 4 jaw chuck. It took a little thought to come up with a way to chuck the spindles on center. No pictures.
I thought about having the spindles knurled. Not sure what it would cost though. Also I didn’t remove the tie rod arms from my spindles and am not sure how to get them off now the spindles have been removed from the axles.
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