Hi new member Dan here(dcc1993), I have a 1993 f150 5.0. Truck sat for 5 years was started last about a year ago. Going to get it road worthy again ,I have replaced plugs, wires ,cap and rotor, all coolant hoses, oil change, complete front and back brakes,cylinders , calipers , hardware and also needed a master. Went to start it and no start, checked fuel pump fuses and relays, all were good, gauges were not reading correctly and I had No fuel pressure either,This truck has two pumps so I checked wires at the pump , was getting power to two wires on both pumps and was also getting good ground on other two wires so I replaced both pumps and fuel filter. I could hardly blow through old filter. Truck will still not start, I have fuel at the rail now when i press valve on the rail. I can run the truck with a spray bottle with gas in it but wont start or run without doing so, soon as i stop spraying it dies. I am going to check pressure on rail and make sure I am getting an injector pulse. Isn't it odd for all this to fail? I am thinking someone put something in my gas. I did fully drain tanks, cleaned the one and replaced the other tank, one tank was pretty rusty and almost looked like it had two cycle oil in it, it was green, that was the tank the sender float was completely gone also and vent bushing was almost melted. I am thinking I will need to replace injectors also but will test them first. Thanks for listening , any recommendations please suggest, I will post results of tests tomorrow evening. Also want to add truck only has 71,250 miles on it

 

Given the age of the old fuel and symptoms I would suspect clogged injectors. Verify you are getting injector pulses, a simple test light while cranking will tell you the story. if you have pulses....the injectors are plugged.

Another simple test...actually a question: Does the fuel pump run continuously when you cycle the key from the Off to Run position? If it does that means the computer is most likely bad. If not, proceed with the testing.

 

The fuel pumps go off after a second or two when key in run position.I will check for pulse and if I have pulse I will get new injectors, probably get a regulator also since I'll be right there. I know I have to remove the plenum, do you recommend I remove egr valve from plenum or try to loosen the big rusty nut connecting the tube to the egr valve? Anything else I may need to have on hand to do the injectors, I know I will need plenum gasket, egr gasket ,any other things I may be forgetting about? I appreciate your reply, not too familiar with forum ,if there is a thank button or something along those lines.

 

I am also real low on cash and can't afford 8 new injectors, if injectors are needed I am going to have to go with 8 reman Bosh injectors, any thoughts on this? Or can I rebuild my own injectors? Thinking the plastic in the injectors may been affected though.

 

You can check the injectors using basic tools, battery, wire and a switch. There was a thread in the past where the OP has done this and did a decent job documenting the process. A few others have done the same.You can get new o-rings, caps and filters at good parts houses for a few dollars.

The old FFI site has been mirrored and it has a short write-up on how to clean injectors: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Fuel Injector Cleaning

 

Ty very much , read the cleaning thread, going to test the pulse in a little bit then if good gonna order a rebuild kit, do you or anyone know if the injectors on my truck get 12volts? Is it safe to intermittently power them straight from a 12 volt battery? I don't have a harness plug but am sure I can use some wire and alligator clips, also guess I have to ohm out the injectors before trying to rebuild them.

 

Yes, the injectors are supplied with power from the battery via a relay.


No. A car battery can supply way too much current. Highly suggest a single 9V battery. The injectors are pulsed off and on for very short periods of time by the computer. For testing purposes you are keeping the duty cycle pegged at 100%. You risk burning out the coil of the injector if you try using too large of a battery. The 9V keeps the risk down, just don't leave power applied too long.


Yes to both of those will be fine and highly suggested to test the impedance.

 

Ok I have no pressure at fuel rail, get a dribble when I press valve. I do have an injector pulse, tested with a noid light. I have 80 psi coming out of fuel filter which I know is high because it's not going through the regulator yet, key on the pump does shut off after a second or two. I am figuring the regulator is clogged and probably the injectors also. I am right to start doing injectors and replacing the regulator?

 

The regulator is on the return side of the fuel circuit. If it was bad/stuck you would see full pressure at the test port since it is in the supply side of the fuel circuit.

A diagram for reference:
Attachment 277308
courtesy of Subford

I suspect a blockage in the fuel line between the filter and the test port/injectors. You could try removing the supply fuel line then use compressed air to back feed the line to loosen whatever is there. Remove the fuel line from the filter output as well when doing this. Given the issues I would plan on removing and cleaning the injectors just for peace of mind.

 

Thanks ,did not realize regulator was on return side. Will blow lines out as best I can when I remove rail and injectors. Gonna replace regulator anyway since it's only $16 and will be done easily when I remove everything. Appreciate all your guys help!! Will post once I complete the job, ordering the parts today along with better disconnect tools. I could not remove the line under the regulator with the cheap disconnect tool I have now. Now I know the other is the input, want to check pressure going into the rail to know better if clog is in line or the rail.

 

Wound up getting 8 new injectors, the gasket kit came with parts to rebuild factory injectors which I am rebuilding for back ups. Job went well engine runs great! I am having a few other issues which I am not sure if its better to start a new thread or continue here? Seems to be an issue with the transmission. The fluid is full and still red and no burnt smell. It seems to shift out of 2nd gear to fast , when i am cruising at around 25-30 mph when i lightly touch gas pedal truck starts to "buck" , when i press pedal far enough to activate detent to drop a gear it runs great , or if i get on it at start its fine . when i am at a stop truck shakes , if i pop it in neutral shake goes away, the engine is not missing I am feeling like the "shake" has something to do with the trans to, soon as i let off brake shake goes away, happens weather truck is cold or warmed up. Any suggestions or known tranny problems that relate to this any opinions would be appreciated, maybe something up with the torque converter? The gear selector only has 1, drive and overdrive so I cant manually shift through 1st , 2nd and third, but weather selector is on drive or overdrive doesn't effect it.

 

you might have a vacuum leak

 

I have just recently checked and replaced most vacuum lines and there doesn't appear to be a leak, thanks for your reply.

 

dcc1993. Just put Bosch reman injectors in mine 3 days ago. Got them on Ebay for $9.00 each. Work perfectly. RESTOMAN92