We have a 93 ford E350 w/IDI 7.3 and it looks like i need to change the lift pump? Looks like its going to be a difficult job so any advice/suggestions from anyone who has done this job would be greatly appreciated. TIA Don

 

Check out this link, some good info here.

Injector Pump ? IDI Online


Charlie

 

he wants to change the lift pump Charlie, not the injector pump.
on a van, i would imagine it would probably be easier to jack it up, remove the passenger wheel, and go through the wheel well to access the lift pump than trying to get to it from up top.

 

First and foremost, after you pull the old pump get under there with a mirror and make sure the eccentric that compresses the fuel pump arm is in the uppermost position. Otherwise you have to have the pump arm compressed under the eccentric while you're trying to start bolts at the same time. I've done a few that way standing alongside the engine with the engine on an engine stand and even then it's a pain in the butt.

 

I appreciate the info and will make sure where the cam lobe is.Iwas looking at it and cant tell for sure yet if the inner fender can be removed as it is in a motorhome and it has fiberglass fender flares which will have to come off before i can see if the inner fender will come out,the pump is due here tommorow but it may be a few days till i get a bit of cooler weather so i can work on it.
Thanks Don

 

Don, I suggest buying a stud and nut to replace the bolt between the fuel pump body and engine block. Fishing out the bolt is a PITA!

 

Thanks for that suggestion,any info from one who has done the job is valuable! Don

 

This is a great idea, it's such a slow go with a wrench on that inner bolt.

Also have something to plug the fuel line with at it has a tendency to try and siphon the tank.

Also go ahead and change out said hose, its a short piece, just use diesel rated fuel line and new hose clamps

 

I was thinking about this yesterday and I realized I had more difficulty putting the back bolt in than I did removing it. I chewed up a gasket trying to install the fuel pump with the bolt in the back so that's why I went to the stud and nut.

FWIW, I also experienced the fuel line squirting fuel from siphoning the tank. I never had that problem with a gasoline vehicle though.

 

I've done the lift pump replacement on my IDI van a while back before I installed the e-pump on the rail. IIRC, it wasn't too bad of a job. Aside from reach around the tie rod and suspension in the way, it came out and in without much problem. It was back in the days before I photographed and videotaped all my repairs. I kind of wish I did record that, because I get a decent amount of questions about lift pumps so it would be a good article. Now I have a block off plate there, and for the most part, the only time I deal with the lift-pump area of my engine, it's when I'm rebuilding the block out of the engine bay.

If you upgrade to the Duralift E-pump, here is what I did: 6.9 / 7.3 IDI Van Lift-Pump and Stock Filter Delete. | Upgraded E-Pump, Sensors, and Frame Rail Dual Filter. ? IDI Online The article lists many advantages over the lift pump, and once you delete it, you'll never go back to that area of the van engine bay.

 

That's ingenious! Excellent job!

I want to move my fuel tank select valve, primary fuel filter, water separator, coolant filter and maybe an electric fuel pump to a toolbox in the bed of my truck. I definitely like your idea of installing an auxiliary bleeder so it doesn't spit fuel all over the intake. I bet real-estate is at a premium in a van. Sometimes I think it's a PITA finding places to put that stuff in my truck.

BTW, what block-off plate did you use in place of the mechanical lift pump? I think I've read folks say that one for a SBC engine works?

 

Real Estate is more valuable in this van engine bay than in Manhattan. Any chance I can get to move something out of the engine compartment, I take it.

I've used on three different engines that I've rebuilt/installed in my van. It's the only chrome thing I have on that engine. Makes me think of the old days when I worked on gassers.

You can see the block off plate in the image below:

 

Don,
I don't know how adventuresome you are, but you really should take a look at genscripter's link. I,too, have an E350 ('91) that came through the motorhome process and I've been where you are. I chose to install the Duralift e-pump and eliminate the engine driven pump. The E350 has more room underneath than the E250 and it's easy enough to fab a bracket or two. I removed the engine driven pump while I was rebuilding the front suspension, but I don't remember it being a particular problem. I may have removed some of the obstacles without realizing it. I am now cleaning up some of the extraneous garbage up top, similar to genscripter's photos. If you choose to upgrade your system, you'll wonder why didn't Ford do it this way in the first place. Good luck either way.
John

 

I still don't understand the convoluted stock fuel delivery system. I constantly had air intrusion issues, bleeding the system was horrendous (especially in a van), and I was fighting the stock system for years.

Then I upgraded to the R&D dual filter setup on the rail, installed an e-pump on the rail, and have a hose that goes up to the IP. I put in a simple schrader valve at the high point, and put an extension hose to bleed air if necessary. The injector and IP return lines are stock. That's it. Super simple, never ever had an air intrusion issue ever again, and very easy to work on under the van. No more spilling diesel all over the block and intake. No more cranking and pulling the doghouse and a million things to get the injectors. No more diesel filter head blocking all the driver's side injectors from the front. No more metal lines blocking the top of the IP. It's just so much easier.

 

I got the new pump and the dire warnings that come with it,i have found no way to see the cam lobe that operates the lft pump iiii have the pump instaled and was able to fit the pump flat on the mounting surface with no tension on he pump and install the bolts without any tension on the bolts and no difficulty in screwing the bolts in.This makes me think that i lucked out and the cam is in the correct position and im ok to finish the job or am i missing something ? Don