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So I need to add an amp to drive my new door speakers and I've never really been an audio guy so I've got some questions. I'm using the stock head unit and don't want to change it.
First, in lieu of wiring from the amp to every speaker, can I run from the amp back to behind the (stock) head unit and tie back into the factory harness to the speakers? I've considered using an aftermarket harness adapter and tying into that (see picture). I drew this assuming that I'd need to cannibalize a factory harness as well in case the speakers aren't all on their own plug.
Second, I'm looking at the Rockford Fosgate R400-4D, which has 4 channels and seems to arrive rated 500-600W. I'm thinking channels 1-2 will go to the front doors, then I'll tie the rear doors and rears all together on channels 3-4. I'm unlikely to ever add a sub. Does that sound like a reasonable approach with these speakers?
Front doors: Infinity 682.11cf (100W, 2 ohm)
Rear doors: Kenwood KFC-C680 (81W, 4 ohm, may replace)
Rear: stock (may get the Kenwoods)
You need to make sure the amp you get can handle speaker level inputs. I always used Crutchfield. Great products and the tech supports is amazing for questions just like yours. Give them a try. Crutchfield>
Looking at the specs of that amp I dont see it mentioning speaker level in only Signal Input Low Level: 2 RCA Pair. How you could still use that but would need an adapter to turn stereo speaker level outputs to line level inputs for the amp.
I’m in a very similar stage with my excursion, not sure if the oem radio has pre amp outputs, haven’t pulled it out yet. I have the same infinite 6x8s that I’m using, and am considering amplifying the front four to 100w rms initially, and getting a separate small 2 channel amp for the rears down the road. I want to ensure that my door speakers are powered to max potential for quality sound to the adults, the kids speakers aren’t begging for 100w yet, but if we start playing some high fidelity Frozen on long road trips we may explore that option.
You need a T harness, but it doesn't appear that Metra or anyone else makes one for our application. You can buy the radio and car harnesses and build your own T harness: Results for: 2005 > Ford > Excursion > Limited > 4-door > Sport Utility | Vehicle Fit Guide | Metra Online
Connect all the wires one for one except the speaker wires which you route to the amp. Assuming you are using an amp with high level inputs or a line output converter.
These older Ford stereos do not put out very good sound quality. I didn't think mine was that bad until I put in a Pioneer head unit and the sound quality even with the factory speakers is way better now.
Thanks all. I've done some more research and on Crutchfield found that the JBL GTR-104 will accept speaker-level inputs, will do 2/4 ohm, give 100W x 4 channels, AND will add Bluetooth, which I've been wanting for years. I cad do the fronts on channels 1-2, the rear doors on 3-4, and the rears either also on 3-4 or leave them on the head unit.
From behind the head unit, I think I'm going to cut the outputs and wire them to the inputs on the amp, then run from the outputs on the amp back to behind the head unit and into the vehicle side of the cut speaker harness (or use a Metra adapter). I just have to add RCAs to the cables for the input side of the amp.
I haven't checked the dimensions but want to put the amp under one of the 2nd row captains chairs.
These older Ford stereos do not put out very good sound quality. I didn't think mine was that bad until I put in a Pioneer head unit and the sound quality even with the factory speakers is way better now.
Yeah, one day I may do a new head unit. I'm just apprehensive about giving folks a reason to break in, and I worry about losing functionality with the factory DVD setup. I sure could use a backup camera without adding one more thing to the dash though.
Thanks all. I've done some more research and on Crutchfield found that the JBL GTR-104 will accept speaker-level inputs, will do 2/4 ohm, give 100W x 4 channels, AND will add Bluetooth, which I've been wanting for years. I cad do the fronts on channels 1-2, the rear doors on 3-4, and the rears either also on 3-4 or leave them on the head unit.
From behind the head unit, I think I'm going to cut the outputs and wire them to the inputs on the amp, then run from the outputs on the amp back to behind the head unit and into the vehicle side of the cut speaker harness (or use a Metra adapter). I just have to add RCAs to the cables for the input side of the amp.
I haven't checked the dimensions but want to put the amp under one of the 2nd row captains chairs.
Rear speakers go through the center console, this can make your life easier.
Yes intercept the outputs from the head unit to new RCA cables and run it to your amp on the 2nd row. Behind the head unit on the speaker side of the harness connect the front and rear speaker wires together. In the center console there's rear speaker wire input to the volume control, and output to the speakers. Disconnect all of this. Output to the rear speakers remains unchanged and you'll connect those to your amp. What used to be the rear input to the volume control you changed by connecting the rears to the fronts behind the head unit so these wires are now output to your front speakers, so these also go to your amp. In this way you don't need to run new speaker wires into your doors; keeps everything cleaner.
Hopefully that makes sense. If not I can do a really bad MS paint illustration before/after. If you're already set on running all new speaker wire then nevermind!
So there is not enough room under the middle captains chairs for the amp so my next choice is in the bottom of the console. Is there enough ventilation for the amp if I mount it in there?
So there is not enough room under the middle captains chairs for the amp so my next choice is in the bottom of the console. Is there enough ventilation for the amp if I mount it in there?
Unpopular opinion; amps have thermal safety and will shut down if they get too hot. If you are okay with possibly needing to mount a fan to move air, go ahead and try without. If the amp shuts off then add the fan. I think you have a good chance that you won't need to.
If you do not want to mess with a fan then I would just go straight to an open location.
Another option is to lok for cladd D or FD. These amps while maybe not as pure as class A (mucho heat and $) and class AB are great for those not competing. Smaller footprints drastically reduced heat output. I have them in my Jeep and my Subaru and another set to install in the X. For sub I chose the Alpine MRV-500
