I didn't watch it, but I knew all about what you had done (and why). I don't think it is paranoid at all to worry about something that you so thoughtfully did, to end up being done Wrong by someone who skips some steps, or isn't as willing to take their time as you were/have been...

My $.02 without watching the vid, though I thought the process you went through, was something others should consider... Hand work is not necessarily going to be Bad work...

Thanks again for all the help and knowledge you share, Jack, really...

Scott

 

Here's the YT link again. I've been playing with the one on my computer, still doing fine tuning. Again, not public on YT, just here. I think you can still get to the higher resolution version by hitting the YT title.




There are a couple of good YT postings about scraping.

 

Thanks Jack for reposting the video, I think I can speak for everyone here that your videos have been a great learning curve and thanks for taking the time to put them together.

Rob

 

Thanks Rob. I'm enjoying learning the process. But it does take time. Post-shooting this one took about 3 weeks of post editing, writing the narration, then over voicing numerous times. Then I go though redoing what I don't like. It ends up being an endless loop since I always find something I don't like.

I never do things in a conventional way, and this entire motor is about fixing this without breaking the bank, again.

Just trying to turn Pandora into Pheonix.

Scott, you saw the raw version ..... long ago. I think I showed you doing the heads, too.

 

Hi Jack another great video. I have also lapped many head/head decks in the past and really appreciate you sharing your method. I really like the idea of using the stone flattening plate with the welding triangle for a handle. One thing I used to do is use the cold blue sold for guns to coat the surface as it gives an idea of how evenly the material is being removed and also will show high and low spots, could be helpful for someone who is new at this. Your comment about not having matching high and low spots between the head and block made me wonder if that might point to a benefit using the KDD aluminum heads as they might "flex" to conform better than an iron head? The aluminum head also might(?) actually clamp tighter when at operating temp due to the aluminum having a higher expansion coefficient Your videos always make me think and drag up long forgotten knowledge, Thanks.

 

Thank you.

Huh, I'm not nuts after all.

You bring up a good point, and actually in the video I'm doing for the heads, I use a Dykem felt pen to color the surface and so you can see the changes. In the machine shop we used Dykem layout fluid all the time, but for my little use, the pens are great. You can also use the wide magic marker pens but that fluid seems to be a little too thick.

The lapping plate is wide and long (and flat) so it's a good tool to use for this work, bridging the cylinders without worry.

These 20mm heads have the typical swale of the surface, and I'm not trying to correct that extensively. I'm not sure that clamping is really the issue we suffer. And I have another SWAG on that phenomena with the heads. Way more down deep in the hole with Alice. I don't have a granite place and height gauge, I used my straight edge to plot out a topographical map of the surface.







I just made a trailer for the heads video.

 

Jack what type of stones did you use to clean things up?
Not planning to do this same job any time soon. I just want
to have ideas in the back of my mind if the need comes up.

Thanks

 

No stones, sandpaper on the lapping plate. I'd never use my stones. The procedure works well as long as you are careful. I took 0.0004" off the passenger side and the drivers side needed more to clean up, 0.0006".

I went 150, 180, and finally 220. Today I finished my (maybe) last revision of the video, just finished reviewing on YT and probably go live later this evening. Some editing, a few little things added but the last one and half minutes of the video I've added viewing the worst case gouged drivers side with the final lapping of 220 grit, so it's ready for the heads. The heads aren't ready though, I think I want to get the valves embedded another 0.005" or so to get them at 0.030" due to the cam. The mating surfaces are ready to go.

 

 

Great video and commentary. I learn so much from your videos. Forget other social media for information and entertainment. FTE is my first stop for almost everything.

Thanks for posting such great material.

 

iPad isn't bad, the iPhone .....

Most of what I've used over the years, and mostly on this project is 3M Wet or Dry, A weight paper, aluminum oxide. For the 180 I did pick up some Norton. For all of this work, I did it dry as I didn't want anything sneaking into the ring area. I've done it wet on blocks and heads when they were not assembled but using some type of oil rather than water. LPS1, WD40, even ATF. This work required me to change out the paper after one pass across and then back. Change direction, change paper.

 

Thanks for the comments.

 

OUCH, Sounds like a workout.

 

I spend at least 6 hours on the "good" passenger side. The deep scratch drivers side, I think I lost count at about 12. And both of those spread out over days, you can only row for so long. But I didn't want to go too aggressive and have to do more work to abrade down scratches I made.

You have to have a real burr up your tail to do this at home. But it was going to just add a lot of money to break it down and go all machine shop. As I said in the video, if I had to I would. But then this all was before on got into the lower end. Had I done that first, this may have turned out as an Ashville short block. Well. maybe. My faith in other people's work at this point is a little thin.

 

OK, so the public version is now published on YT.