Hi Guys!
I just signed up to the forum after doing quite a bit of reading. I must say, even after a few searches, I don't know that I'm any less confused than when I started. My hope is that you guys might point me in the right direction.

My father passed away this past year, and I've decided to keep his 92 F150. It was always his old trusty truck, but it's started to show signs of age coupled with the fact that he couldn't maintain it as well as he once did. Top items are rear main seal, engine oil pan gasket, water pump, and AC compressor (it's still old R12 btw...). Quotes for the oil leaks alone (rear main, and oil pan) come in around $1100-$1300. While the engine runs fine, this has me thinking it might be smarter to spend the cash on an engine swap vs replacing those seals and still having something old and worn (though fully functional). The current engine has about 130k mi on it. It's possible I could pull the motor, put it on a stand, and slowly refresh it myself...but I really don't have the time, and I'd rather have the truck running and usable inside of the next month or so. Yes, I'd love to do some performance upgrades to the stock motor setup, but that isn't the primary goal.

IF this was your situation...what would you do? Also, if you're thinking an engine replacement, I'm open to it, but I'd like to stay <2k all in. It's possible I could yank the motor to save some labor, but I really don't know that I'd have time for much of anything past that.

Current setup is A4 tranny, dual throttle body 5.0 w/ dual gas tanks, 2wd.

Thanks all!

 

With only 130k miles on it, that motor is barley broken in. I've seen them go 300-400k. Mine has 210k currently. If it were mine, I might pull the motor and freshen it up with all new seals/gaskets and a slight cam upgrade. I bet the cylinder walls are still perfect.

 

I'd fix it up. 130K is nothing. I have a 93 with 145K on it and it runs like it is new. I looked in the cylinders with a bore scope and can still see crosshatching on the cylinder walls. I need to put a new pan gasket on it, but that will have to wait til it gets warmer.

If you keep the motor with the truck it will possibly save you headaches and money in the long run. If you are talking a used motor swap,then you have unknowns and it may go south on you, You are gonna pull the engine anyway,keep what you have and run with it.

 

I'm with them also. If the only problems you are having with the engine are those couple of leaks, I would fix them rather than swap. A lot of people think their rear main seal is leaking on these, but usually winds up only being the pan gasket. You could maybe try that that since it can be replaced without engine removal, although it's not a fun job!

 

 

I'd keep the same motor. If you have the time/knowledge and tools to R&R the motor, what's another couple of hours to put on a new pan and seal?
BTW, I'd degrease first and then do the pan....

 

Like the others have said that engine probably has a lot of life left in it.

 

Going to suggest the same route. My 95 is coming up on 300k and actually runs better than it did when I got it with 155k, granted it had bad plugs then and I change them every year now.
But, yes I would do the gaskets and leave it be if it's just going to be a driver. If you are looking for more power maybe a cam upgrade, but nothing radical.

 

Huge thanks to everyone for your replies!

It sounds like I'm keeping the motor. I chatted with a few buddies of mine that have tackled things like this before, and I think what between the 3 of us, we're going to do is to pull the motor out and give it solid refresh. This won't be a daily, but I want it to be reliable and not create headaches... I realize "reliability" and "modifications" don't typically go well in the same sentence, but I do believe I'd also go the route of squeezing a bit more power out it while I'm working on it. Cam swap for sure, but like was suggested, definitely nothing radical. I wouldn't even mind doing heads, if its worth doing, since I'll be in there already. Also, your comments were a good reminder that I know the life of this engine very well...we've owned the truck since it was a few years old, and it's been perfectly maintained up until this past year or two where it was really just a matter of it not getting used enough.

I'll start doing some more reading, but if anyone has suggestions on good cams for this motor, or anything else while I'm doing this project, I'm all ears!

Also, someone had asked about the AC. The compressor is totally shot, or I'd just recharge it (I actually have a few cans of R12 still). I'm in Texas, so for me, AC isn't an option, it's a necessity.

 

I know, it's not from this forum, and perhaps you guys have something simlar here I just haven't ran across yet, but figured I'd share anyway- this was a good education for me. Keep scrolling, his later posts in the same thread cover various gaskets, bolts, seals, you name it. I'll definitely fact check everything, but this gave me a good start- 300 HP 502's

 

 

Good question. Won't hold pressure, and makes one hell of an extra sound that it shouldn't be making when it gets turned on. I suppose it's possible that it's more than one of the above, but I also didn't realize all of those things could be fixed. Sounds like I need to have it looked at more closely. Appreciate it!

 

Maybe a rear end swap, more power for cheap.

 

If ya'll still reading: what is the preferred degreasing method? thanks

 

This is what I have used with very good success. Gunk doesn't even come close. I get mine at Home Depot in the flooring department. Several others on here have been delighted with the results. It takes off so much grease I have to use paper towels because I don't have enough rags to toss. Check the reviews. Sandy