Not starting....
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Not starting....
Hello, I've been having issues with my '94 F350 Dually. It has a gear splitter on it to help with pulling heavy loads. It's a hard shifter, so I had the PSOM repaired. Didn't help. Replaced the VSS...didn't help. I read that once you replace the VSS, you have to "reset the computer" by unhooking the battery. So I unhooked the positive lead of my battery. Since then, I can't get it to start. If I try to jump it off a running car, it won't turn over. If I hook it up to a battery charger it just makes a loud fast clicking sound when I try to start it. And the chime is really fast too. I took the battery in to AutoZone, they said it's reading full charge. (My charger said the same). Did I short something out??
I replaced the starter solenoid earlier this year, so that's not the problem (I think). Is it the starter? The alternator? Help! Arrgh!
I replaced the starter solenoid earlier this year, so that's not the problem (I think). Is it the starter? The alternator? Help! Arrgh!
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
"12V" doesn't mean anything, a full charge is 12.8 volts. Dead is close to 12.0V. Decimals are important with starting batteries. Even if the open circuit voltage is OK, the battery needs to be tested while under load. They should have done that when you took it in. There are some field tests or indications when installed, for example are the headlights bright? Do they dim or cutout completely when trying to start?
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"12V" doesn't mean anything, a full charge is 12.8 volts. Dead is close to 12.0V. Decimals are important with starting batteries. Even if the open circuit voltage is OK, the battery needs to be tested while under load. They should have done that when you took it in. There are some field tests or indications when installed, for example are the headlights bright? Do they dim or cutout completely when trying to start?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
"Typically" Autozone will tell you that you need a battery if it is anything below their charts. So if they didn't say anything then it's my guess it's fine.
Now, I wonder since it worked fine before you removed the RED cable. I wonder if you have a bad cable? They tend to rot off inside. If it was fine til you twisted it out of the way? I'm wondering if that is an issue.
Have the car that jumped it hook directly to the starter solenoid(next to the battery. If it starts, then the cable is faulty.
Here is a video showing how to jump across the solenoid:
Now, I wonder since it worked fine before you removed the RED cable. I wonder if you have a bad cable? They tend to rot off inside. If it was fine til you twisted it out of the way? I'm wondering if that is an issue.
Have the car that jumped it hook directly to the starter solenoid(next to the battery. If it starts, then the cable is faulty.
Here is a video showing how to jump across the solenoid:
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Freshman User
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"Typically" Autozone will tell you that you need a battery if it is anything below their charts. So if they didn't say anything then it's my guess it's fine.
Now, I wonder since it worked fine before you removed the RED cable. I wonder if you have a bad cable? They tend to rot off inside. If it was fine til you twisted it out of the way? I'm wondering if that is an issue.
Have the car that jumped it hook directly to the starter solenoid(next to the battery. If it starts, then the cable is faulty.
Here is a video showing how to jump across the solenoid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJL0DD8gJbY
Now, I wonder since it worked fine before you removed the RED cable. I wonder if you have a bad cable? They tend to rot off inside. If it was fine til you twisted it out of the way? I'm wondering if that is an issue.
Have the car that jumped it hook directly to the starter solenoid(next to the battery. If it starts, then the cable is faulty.
Here is a video showing how to jump across the solenoid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJL0DD8gJbY
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
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Headlights are bright when hooked up to external source.
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Dude, either help or don't. Your snark is neither appreciated nor needed. We can't all be Ford gods like you. HEADLIGHTS ARE BRIGHT WHEN HOOKED UP TO AN EXTERNAL SOURCE WHILE TRYING TO CRANK. Better?
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 305
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Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake, turn the key to the run position, open the hood. Use a large screwdriver and jump the fender mounted solenoid as in the video. Does the motor turn over and the truck start? If not, use your battery charger set to start or use another vehicle with jumper cables, and put the positive wire on the solenoid post that the battery wire hooks to, negative goes to ground. Now use the big screwdriver to jump the posts. What happens?
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Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake, turn the key to the run position, open the hood. Use a large screwdriver and jump the fender mounted solenoid as in the video. Does the motor turn over and the truck start? If not, use your battery charger set to start or use another vehicle with jumper cables, and put the positive wire on the solenoid post that the battery wire hooks to, negative goes to ground. Now use the big screwdriver to jump the posts. What happens?
1: just jumping the solenoid: nothing happens...no turn over, no click, nothing.
2. Hooked up the battery charger set to start, put the + cable on the solenoid post, - went to ground. When I jumped the posts, it didn't turn over, all I got was a click. That's it.
Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
What we want to do in this instance is see if the juice from the battery is making it where it needs to go, in addition to whether the battery itself is choking under even a minor load. It's kind of a poor man's diagnostic. Hooking a charger or jump box up confuses things and doesn't tell us what we want to know. I'm not trying to be a *****, there are reasons for asking certain steps to be done a specific way, it saves time and without writing a novel explaining all the whys and wherefores.
I don't think anything should have shorted out, disconnecting and reconnecting the positive. Was it disconnected for a long time? Has it been real cold where you're at? Just thinking outloud. I still would want to get a warm and fuzzy on whether the battery decided to crap itself. If AutoZone sez it's OK, I guess so. Did they do an actual load test or diagnostics though? Make sure all the ground connections are clean, and tight.
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No, not really.
What we want to do in this instance is see if the juice from the battery is making it where it needs to go, in addition to whether the battery itself is choking under even a minor load. It's kind of a poor man's diagnostic. Hooking a charger or jump box up confuses things and doesn't tell us what we want to know. I'm not trying to be a *****, there are reasons for asking certain steps to be done a specific way, it saves time and without writing a novel explaining all the whys and wherefores.
I don't think anything should have shorted out, disconnecting and reconnecting the positive. Was it disconnected for a long time? Has it been real cold where you're at? Just thinking outloud. I still would want to get a warm and fuzzy on whether the battery decided to crap itself. If AutoZone sez it's OK, I guess so. Did they do an actual load test or diagnostics though? Make sure all the ground connections are clean, and tight.
The original disconnect was just off for about 10 seconds, then back on. It's real cold now, but it wasn't when it happened the first time. Others have suggested a bad cable? I dunno.