Ball joints bad?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
I haven't looked at the bushing at an in close inspection, but all seems ok with them. I have a floor hydraulic press, so if I were to ever replace those, probably would use that instead of the c-clamp style harbor freight ball joint press. I imagine it would work, but like you said, would need to find something that was of the right circumference to work on the bushing. HF also has a ball joint press adapter kit with lots of different circumference adapters so that might be something to consider.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
The circumference is not so much the problem (I'll checkout the adapter kit) as the shape of the radius arm.
The radius arm at the bushing is a U-channel and the bushing is seated on both sides of the U.
I think I need to put something inside the U - a block of wood, box steel or something, to keep the U in shape when pressing on the bushing.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Central Ohio
One of my bushings is definitely worn, I can fee it shift/thunk when driving over certain uneven driveways.
The circumference is not so much the problem (I'll checkout the adapter kit) as the shape of the radius arm.
The radius arm at the bushing is a U-channel and the bushing is seated on both sides of the U.
I think I need to put something inside the U - a block of wood, box steel or something, to keep the U in shape when pressing on the bushing.
The circumference is not so much the problem (I'll checkout the adapter kit) as the shape of the radius arm.
The radius arm at the bushing is a U-channel and the bushing is seated on both sides of the U.
I think I need to put something inside the U - a block of wood, box steel or something, to keep the U in shape when pressing on the bushing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
The radius arm bushings I have are Moog K200901, also ACDelco 45G30007, NAPA 274-9224.
Most of the time they are listed for the F250 and F350, but they leave out the Excursion.
Also, I have a MAS Industries AB85049 bushing for the I-beam pivot and the Amazon application chart says it's for the front right inner, but they look the same to me.
Most of the time they are listed for the F250 and F350, but they leave out the Excursion.
Also, I have a MAS Industries AB85049 bushing for the I-beam pivot and the Amazon application chart says it's for the front right inner, but they look the same to me.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
Current update - had to replace the front bearings as they had too much 'play' in them for the local shop to do an alignment. When putting in new bearings and races, whoever previously had the rotor/hubs off (brake job most likely) didn't seem to set them how I read they should be - which is torquing them at 20 ft-lbs while rotating the hub, back off by 1/2 a turn, then re-torque to 17 in-lb. So I did just that with replacing the bearings, set them at 20 ft-lbs then used an in-lb torque wrench and set the nut at 17 in-lbs.
The shop again said they had some play in them, which seems weird to me, but are doing the alignment anyhow. I will have to re-check the torque again now that it's got a few miles on the new bearings.
That being said, anyone able to confirm what the Ford shop manual states for setting the front bearings? Is that 20 ft-lb, 1/2 turn back, re-torque to 17 in-lb correct? Or was what I found out on the 'net "fake news"?
The shop again said they had some play in them, which seems weird to me, but are doing the alignment anyhow. I will have to re-check the torque again now that it's got a few miles on the new bearings.
That being said, anyone able to confirm what the Ford shop manual states for setting the front bearings? Is that 20 ft-lb, 1/2 turn back, re-torque to 17 in-lb correct? Or was what I found out on the 'net "fake news"?
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