Ball joints bad?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
Ball joints bad?
Replacing the tie rods on my 05 RWD Excursion. I noticed a small amount of play on the front ball joints. Maybe a 1/16 to 1/8” slop. Is this normal to be able to move the assembly within the ball joints or is it "wtf?! You need to fix that sh**! There should be 0 play!!!"
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
d'oh!
Figured that was the case. I had the ball joints and was ready to replace them, then realized that there was slop in the tie rods, so I took the ball joints back and replaced all the tie rod ends. Once I was in there with it up on stands, I then realized the ball joints had that play in them - so ... off I go back to the parts store to re-buy the joints I just returned! 
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
Nah - he was cool. Was more than happy to re-sell them to me, and was even happy to help me out in getting different joints that had zerk fittings instead of those that did not (when I insisted that I wanted ones that I can continue to pack with grease at maintenance intervals in the future).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Ours needed tie rod ends at 110k, but the ball joints still seem fine at 132k.
Have you checked the radius arm bushings?
I think our bushings are shot, but it's hard to see up in there.
The sleeve in the center of one of the bushings doesn't seem to be centered anymore.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
They don't seem to have any 2WD kits, but do carry ball joints individually from XRF Chassis and Heavy Duty Select - K80027 lower & K80028 upper
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
How many miles?
Ours needed tie rod ends at 110k, but the ball joints still seem fine at 132k.
Have you checked the radius arm bushings?
I think our bushings are shot, but it's hard to see up in there.
The sleeve in the center of one of the bushings doesn't seem to be centered anymore.
Ours needed tie rod ends at 110k, but the ball joints still seem fine at 132k.
Have you checked the radius arm bushings?
I think our bushings are shot, but it's hard to see up in there.
The sleeve in the center of one of the bushings doesn't seem to be centered anymore.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
What brand ball joints did you use that are greaseable?
Ours has 132k and the steering feels fine.
The wheel bearings will get replaced when I do the brakes/rotors which should be soon.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
NAPA NCP 2601311 for the lowers
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCZ2601311
TTX for the uppers Napa part number NCP TXK80028
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCQTXK80028
NOTE: For the TTX, I couldn't use the 90 degree zerk fitting that came with it or it would have been impossible to get my grease gun on it, I had to put on a straight fitting (luckily had some laying around so I didn't have to make another trip to the store).
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 170
Likes: 5
Yep - the harbor freight special. Since I was doing this without a heavy shop bench and vice to hold the knuckle, I used an air impact gun on the ball joint press with the compressor set to 120 PSI and was able to drive them out/in with the impact vs. having to try and hold the knuckle still on the ground somehow and crank with a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Good to know, that's the kit I have, too.
Did you get a chance to look at your radius arm bushings?
I might be able to use that kit for the bushings, but I think I need to find something to put inside the U-channel radius arm to keep it from bending inward.
Did you get a chance to look at your radius arm bushings?
I might be able to use that kit for the bushings, but I think I need to find something to put inside the U-channel radius arm to keep it from bending inward.