When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So my 2 year old high output alternator is done, the front bearings are the issue. It's a 190 high amp output, and has otherwise served me well. It was chosen due to the 900 watt stereo system, and the max I could do without replacing any harness wiring.
I am looking for your opinions on high amp alternator brands. What brand are you using, and how has it held up.
I may not go back with the same company I originally used. Another option I will look into this week, are having the bearings replaced in this one.
How long have you had it, is it performing well? I will actually need a solution this week as I'm planning a state park outing soon.
Amperage wise, I noticed a big difference in my audio quality as there is also a 1 farad capacitor that needs to stay charged.
I recently purchased a travel trailer, so this has also added a demand on the alternator to charge the house batteries when towing.
Edit: just looked up the DC Power (Leece Neville) alternator, they seem to be the only ones, other than Nations Starter, offering a 2 year warranty.
I have the DC Power 250 amp unit. Had it for five years with about 40K miles on it. No problems and things work better at 14.5 volts. If your 190 unit is electrically ok, suggest you take it to a repair shop and have the bearings replaced. I would think that to be the simplest fix.
I may not go back with the same company I originally used. Another option I will look into this week, are having the bearings replaced in this one.
Even simpler. Like so many things mechanical these days, if you want it done correctly the first time ya gotta do it yourself. Maybe these guys have a kit.
My Leece Neville is about 2 yrs old now. Running fine. Its a much more robust unit than any of the ones built into an OEM case. Larger bearings, larger rotor, better cooling etc. They were originally built for police and ambulance service.
Denso Alternator 104210-6103 (ford part# 7C3T-10300-EE - this is the 2008+ alternator) and install a IN6308 14.4v regulator. Optionally you can run a 15v IN6003SE regulator but I don't see the need.
Rated at 200 amps but they do 220-240.
You'll find the aftermarket names are selling the same thing at twice the price.
Make your harness by combining at "6g to 3g adapter" with a cs130d repair plug which fits the regulator. LT GRN/RED wire connects to the "L" terminal of the regulator the ORG/LT BLUE sense wire connects to the "S" terminal on the regulator.
Thanks for all the replies,
I've been talking with the DC Power guy today, he is supposed to email me some info on another 180 Amp model, with all current Denso parts. Of which just came in.
The 180 amp alternator is a 6-phase denso hairpin with a 12 diode rectifier.
The voltage set point is 14.8 volts
Cold Idle Amperage: 130
Hot Idle Amperage: 120
Max Amperage: 180
Hot Max Amperage: 160
8mm Output Stud
Rectifier: 12 40 amp pressed fit diodes
Direct Plug and Play
2 year warranty with lifetime on labor
Sku: 8307-180-HP
I did learn that I do have lifetime labor on my current one, with replacement parts being my expense. Of course the labor time is probably nothing, so a lifetime labor warranty seems pretty moot. Spoke to the company where I purchased mine from, they are interested to have it back to see what happened, seems a bearing failure is rare according to them. By the time I send it back, have possible front bearing, and regulator replacement, I'm around $130.00, not including shipping to and fro. A local shop could do a full test, tear down, and rebuild, at an unknown price till they look it over, of which would void my pointless labor warranty. I could also open it up and capture the bearing and regulator numbers and do it myself, again probably voiding that labor warranty. Pricing on the above alternator is somewhere over $400.00. I'm thinking I'll just buy another new one, and sort out my current failed one a little later. I'd prefer to have a ready to go back up anyway. I still have a functional OE that I pulled out in Nov of 2016 for an emergency.
I have the DC Power 250 amp unit. Had it for five years with about 40K miles on it. No problems and things work better at 14.5 volts. If your 190 unit is electrically ok, suggest you take it to a repair shop and have the bearings replaced. I would think that to be the simplest fix.
Ed
Not sure about the electrical part, it'll need to be tested, it does seem to be charging with the stereo load.
I first noticed a real issue when returning home from Grand Rapids, MI last December 28. I was pulling the new Travel Trailer. Half way though the 12 hour drive home the batt light was randomly coming on, assuming the issue was with the travel trailer being connected, and the X having to supply a charge to it's battery, I decided to turn off every accessory, IE: radio, fog lights, Etc. It seemed to get better, after pulling over in the wee hours of the morning and bedding down for 5 hours, the truck started fine and I resumed my drive, no batt light till several hours on the road. Although I had pulled over in the beginning to check for an over heated alternator pulley, and case, It was fine to the touch. I definitely don't trust it now.
I am actually steering clear from mentioning the original company I bought it from.
My disclaimer would be: that I am in no way shaming their product, or throwing them under the bus. The alternator did function for the 2 year warranty period, and lived up to it's expectations within that time.
Bearings going out this soon should not have happened, I agree. Rather than exercise their offer to send it back for an assessment, with my paying shipping both ways, plus possible parts, and vehicle down time, I opted to just buy from another retailer for now. I went with a replacement from DC Power today, a little pricey, we'll see how it goes. Once the new one arrives, I'll sort out the failed one.
02-03-2019, 07:29 PM
