What do you think the difference is between the Liquid Copper product and the Head Gasket Sealant. What made you choose the Liquid Copper over the Head Gasket Sealant for your head gasket leak? I remember you mentioned that it mixed with the coolant and you didn't need to drain or flush before or after, but did you feel it was more effective than the Head Gasket Sealant? Thanks again.

 

I'm not sure the copper stuff can handle the heat from the cylinder head for a long time. It's made to seal issues with the block, of which the cylinder heads are not a part of. The cylinder head sealer is specifically made to seal cylinder heads and to take the associated heat.

 

Just called the tech line at Bar's Leak to ask some questions and they suggested using the HG1 Head Gasket Sealant for my application, Anyone ever use that?

 

No but here's the product page for anyone interested.
https://barsleaks.com/product/blown-head-gasket-repair/

 

I've been told recently by my local contacts and several mechanics that Blue Devil is the way to go. Does anyone know anything about their product vs the Bar's Leak? Has anyone tried it or can advise one vs the other? Just trying to find the right thing and to do it once. Thanks.

 

I used the Bar Leaks head gasket sealant on my 2000 Ford F150 with the 5.4. Blew my head gasket at 227k miles last November and its still running like a new truck at 230k miles! Very impressed with it. If it wears off, i have decided that ill do it again. Only thing, i just made sure to follow to directions to a T. Nobody would ever guess i have that in my pickup. Its that good!

 

Can you describe in detail, if you remember, exact details of what your symptoms were? I was looking on a website called "oil and water project" on which they rated the Bar's Leak as the 2nd best head gasket sealing product available and they mention it might not work for large leaks. They put the Blue Devil as the best product. But it seems the Bar's Leak may be easier to use. I haven't looked into what's involved with the Blue Devil product but I remember hearing it's a lot more work. The Bar's Leak has carbon fiber in it which is probably why it works well. Don't yet know what the Blue Devil is composed of. Thanks.

 

Here you go. These are the directions on the back of the bottle. Before i started, i installed a new thermostat and radiator cap to insure that they were both working properly. Once i was done i did an oil change as well.


DIRECTIONS: 1. Allow engine to cool. Make sure engine is cool enough so radiator cap can be safely removed. (This could take 30 minutes or longer). Drain and completely flush antifreeze from cooling system and overflow tank. Using a flush “T” with garden hose works best. If cooling system is dirty, use a good quality flush following manufacturer’s instructions. ALL antifreeze must be removed or clogging may occur. DISPOSAL: Observe local laws & regulations. Where permitted, dispose of in sanitary sewer system. Never pour on the ground or in a storm sewer system. 2. Shake well, Mix Head Gasket Repair in a bucket or container with approximately 3 quarts of warm water. Pour this mixture directly into the radiator. If using in a small cooling system, like 4 cylinders with no A/C, mix ½ bottle of the Head Gasket Repair with the warm water. TIP: If you do not have access to your radiator and vehicle has a pressurized reservoir, then product can be added to reservoir. If not then remove top hose where it connects to the top of radiator and install product in hose. Reattach and tighten clamp. 3. Fill cooling system with water and reinstall radiator cap. 4. Start engine. 5. Turn heater on hot and fan on high. 6. Run engine for 5 minutes or until thermostat opens. 7. Turn vehicle off and allow engine to cool. Allow enough time so it is safe to open cap. 8. Top off cooling system with water and reinstall radiator cap. 9. Run engine at idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Continue running engine at idle for 15 minutes. 10.Turn vehicle off and allow engine to cool. Allow enough time so it is safe to open cap. 11.Top off (fill up) cooling system with water as needed and reinstall radiator cap. 12.Run engine at idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Continue running engine, but at high idle (1500 RPM’s) for 20 minutes. TIP: For vehicles with intermittent or very minor leaks, it is recommended to follow step 12 by idling vehicle for one hour. 13.Turn vehicle off and allow engine to cool for 1 hour. 14.Remove radiator cap and drain system. 15.Leave drain open and radiator cap off for 12 to 24 hours. If temperature is below freezing, vehicle must either be kept heated or immediately go to step 16. 16.Flush entire cooling system and refill with manufacturer’s recommended antifreeze/water mixture.

 

Just realized you asked what my symptoms were. My bad lol. My pick up was dripping coolant out of my tail pipe and was smoking real bad. My heater stopped working and it was idling REALLY rough.

 

Yeah thanks for that. Do you remember ever seeing coolant in the oil anywhere also? My '99 5.4 is presenting with moderate white smoke out the tailpipe, but I have the dirty white/greasy sludge under the oil filler cap and I can now see the oil on the end of the dipstick being a little thinner and watery as the coolant has found it's way to the oil pan and mixing.Thanks if you remember. Your symptoms seem that they may have been worse than I am experiencing currently. I'd like to know if you had the coolant in oil issue as well which may tell me if I have a shot at possibly fixing my gasket leak if you had the coolant in oil as well. I should definitely try the sealer addition at this point, yes. It'll just be trying to decide on the Bar's Leak vs the Blue Devil after I find out more about the composition of the Blue Devil. Thanks and hope it holds together for many miles to come!

 

This is not proof of antifreeze in oil. It happen in cold weather here in MN all time.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...runs-good.html
Search of "Milky oil cap" and you will find tons of treads about it here. We talked about head gasket (usually it is broken HEAD not head gasket).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-gasket.html
I do not see this all like proof that you have coolant in oil.
​​​​​​​Those are symptoms of bad head or head gasket.

 

Idling is good, power is fine, will need to smell and feel the white smoke coming from the tailpipe as a next thing to easily check.But I do have the coolant level dropping as viewed from the coolant recovery tank and there are no external coolant leaks. I would think that the white smoke constantly emanating from the tailpipe is coolant, as such. And that the oil consistency and color would point to a head leak of some sort.maybe into a combustion chamber as well as into the crankcase. Thoughts? I will post some photos/video, when the weather permits, which may help

 

White smoke yes. Milky cap do not prove anything.