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1999 F350 new batteries. Starts fine above 35 degrees. Below that or in high 20's it cranks, blows white smoke and will eventually start. I have read a TON of different info on what COULD be wrong. Truck has 117K miles. If it's plugged in it starts with no issue. When it has started after cranking and it's very cold it seems to surge in rpm slightly at steady pedal going down the road until it warms up. I can't do much with the glow plugs right now because I have a severely pulled hamstring. One thing I have read as to what can be an issue is the IDM module. It almost seems like a contact is loosing connection once the temps drop below 30 degree's. Like I said 35 starts fine below 30 white smoke and cranks a lot before starting if not plugged in. Any ideas? I can replace the IDM myself and would rather risk $150-$200 than $1k having glow plugs installed and then finding out it still won't start. Thank you
I guess I should have mentioned I did the Stancor GPR upgrade about 6-7 years ago. I know that doesn't mean it isn't bad. Green LED in the gauge pod comes on so I know the GPR is coming on. As to wether it's sending voltage to the GP's that's a different story. I will be checking the GPR this weekend. With this pulled hamstring it's hard to do much more under the hood right now.
With glow plugs lit check battery voltage side of relay to ground and then check glow plug side of the relay to ground. Should read the same. If contacts in the relay are pitted / corroded glow plug side will read lower. Like Walleye said with glow plugs energized voltage will seem low, around 11 to 11.5 compared to not energized.
With glow plugs lit check battery voltage side of relay to ground and then check glow plug side of the relay to ground. Should read the same. If contacts in the relay are pitted / corroded glow plug side will read lower. Like Walleye said with glow plugs energized voltage will seem low, around 11 to 11.5 compared to not energized.
There is an easier way to accomplish the same thing. By putting the red lead on the battery side of the relay and the black lead on the glow plug side you measure the voltage drop across the relay, letting the meter do the math for you.
It should read less than 1 volt when energized. 1 volt or more indicates a bad relay.
Last edited by HD Rider; Feb 7, 2019 at 11:40 AM.
Reason: Spell check
Addition to the video: If the output side of the relay shows the same as battery voltage the relay is working, but the glow plugs aren't. If everything's working it'll show less than battery voltage and the battery voltage will drop while it's engaged.
There is an easier way to accomplish the same thing. By putting the red lead on the battery side of the relay and the black lead on the glow plug side you measure the voltage drop across the relay, letting the meter do the math for you.
It should read less than 1 volt when energized. 1 volt or more indicates a bad relay.
But I'm a nerd and I like math
That will definitely let you know relay condition.
I just like to know what the batteries are doing under glow plug load.
So I just got a chance to check the GPR.It has 12.67 volts on the battery side and when switched on in drops to 12.16 on the output side. So I would assume the GPR is good. Now I just have to wait until my hamstring heals before I can go climbing into the engine bay to try and test the glow plugs. Local shop said it would cost $1380.00 to replace all 8 GP/s and VC gaskets. I thought that was kind of high. If I had somewhere inside to do it, I would do it myself. Oh well.
If your stancor relay is 6-7 years old and you drive the truck often, they are cheap enough to where you might just replace it anyway. They don't last forever either, just a lot longer than the stock one. Chances are you have shot plugs though. System voltage on my truck will drop down into the high 10's to low 11's on a cold morning...good batteries and the plugs are pretty new. Your voltage doesn't sound like it is dropping enough with the key on, which suggests you have weak or non-functioning plugs.