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You nailed it. I just talked to the dealership. They are telling me the damper went bad, which took out one ball joint. The ball joint of course caused the misalignment. They are trying to argue a bit about charging me for the alignment. I cant see where I should have to pay, when the cause was failed parts. And as they told me yesterday it has been a known issue. They also said they need to put on new tires to do the alignment which I kind of doubt, as alignment usually comes off the wheel not the tire. I may be out of date knowledge wise on that. There are new tires on the back so they are going to rotate, to do the alignment. Anyway anyone with a 2016 might should keep this issue in mind.
Just to clarify something the dampener is not needed if all your steering components are working properly and in good condition. All of dampener does is help reduce any jarring in the steering wheel when you hit a pothole for example. A dampener going out does not take out a ball joint. You will see many trucks out there with dual stabilizers/ dampeners many drivers use it as a Band-Aid because they don’t want to fix what’s actually wrong with the truck or it’s just cheaper to do a steering stabilizer/dampener.
Just to clarify something the dampener is not needed if all your steering components are working properly and in good condition. All of dampener does is help reduce any jarring in the steering wheel when you hit a pothole for example. A dampener going out does not take out a ball joint. You will see many trucks out there with dual stabilizers/ dampeners many drivers use it as a Band-Aid because they don’t want to fix what’s actually wrong with the truck or it’s just cheaper to do a steering stabilizer/dampener.
I kind of wondered about that myself. Would the failed ball joint damage the dampener? Both service managers there are new, one is female, neither seem to be very technically knowledgeable. But the dampener is what they are blaming the rest of the probs on. Is there any thing else I should ask about or suspect?
Nope. It's there as an aid as Colorado350 said. Mine takes a beating as a rock magnet when I'm off-roading.
It's a heavy truck and that takes a toll on components regardless of how stout they are. I've read of ball joints going out after 10K miles.
I don't know of anything external that would cause a ball joint to go bad short of poor installation or driving abuse (e.g. rough off-roading, hopping curbs).
I’m personally NOT a fan of replacing only one ball joint. They work in pairs and WEAR IN PAIRS.
I agree if your going threw the work to pull the the steering knuckle out just do both , The Factory ball joints suck from factory and seen guys do just one and disturbing the second one usually causes it to go bad .
All my fords except F-450s that have a fully greasable front axle go bad around 75k which really sucks .
I always run my tires at a lower pressure WHEN UNLOADED. There's absolutely no reason to run max psi (as indicated on the sticker) unless you're running at max capacity. Unless you're trying to get a new set of tires a little quicker. Manufacturers try to make things dummy proof so they're only gonna our one pressure. They can't rely on some average joe to change pressures depending on loads so they just recommend the max and you're good to go.
I agree if your going threw the work to pull the the steering knuckle out just do both , The Factory ball joints suck from factory and seen guys do just one and disturbing the second one usually causes it to go bad .
All my fords except F-450s that have a fully greasable front axle go bad around 75k which really sucks .
I'm at about 67,000 miles on my 2012 6.7 and will be doing a lift very soon. After reading through this thread I am thinking about being preventative and changing the ball joints. Which aftermarket ones do you recommend since the OEM’s are junk.
I’m personally NOT a fan of replacing only one ball joint. They work in pairs and WEAR IN PAIRS.
Well as I said the two service managers were not tech savy and misled me a bit. It wasnt a ball joint they replaced it was track bar ball joint. I'm not even sure what that is. I was told it's part of the rack and pinion. They did replace the dampner though. The paper work said it was "weak." Whatever that means lol. Feels much better while driving now
Wow that's getting low. You don't experiance any handling issues, or anything like that?
Not really. I don't race my truck but I do have a 20 minute drive into town on a curvy 65 mph road. Feels fine to me. Also, I'm just barely above where the tire would wear perfectly even. Toyo has a chart that tells you what kind of weight the tires can handle at certain pressures if you're interested in checking that out.
I run 60 front/45 rear on my 2001 (empty) and it works well for me. I have 285s on the stock wheels and if I ran max pressure the tires would be very "domed". They still don't run as flat as they should. I need wider wheels, but it's not bad.
Well as I said the two service managers were not tech savy and misled me a bit. It wasnt a ball joint they replaced it was track bar ball joint. I'm not even sure what that is. I was told it's part of the rack and pinion. They did replace the dampner though. The paper work said it was "weak." Whatever that means lol. Feels much better while driving now
Do you mean service writers? Service managers have to be knowledgeable about repairs. Service writers just take notes and attempt to sell you more services. At least that's the way it is where I live.
Do you mean service writers? Service managers have to be knowledgeable about repairs. Service writers just take notes and attempt to sell you more services. At least that's the way it is where I live.
Yeah writers would be more correct in this case. But in my past experience writers had to be knowledgeable too.
I tried the 60/45 and it's a world of difference. Drove to town today and I'm pretty sure all four tires were on the ground at all times. Now what to do about that low pressure light......
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