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TRUCK NOT STARTING

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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 01:04 PM
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TRUCK NOT STARTING

Ok, It's been cold, like -20F or more. It warmed up to about 20 yesterday. Still pretty cold in the garage. Tried to start the truck. It won't start. Battery does turn the engine but it does not start. Dumped a little gas in the carb, still no go. Truck was running great in the fall. Started with no problem. The battery is good, I don't think that is the issue. What else could cause a truck not to start when it is sooo cold?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 01:05 PM
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The truck is 6 volt. Even the 12 volt tractor did not want to start. It took a lot messing around, ran battery dead, charged over night. Tractor started right up this morning.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 02:32 PM
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6 volt system grounds & cables are critical. Most recommendations are to use AWG 00 cables. Check for a good fat hot spark at the plugs, during engine cranking the ignition is often starved for current by the starter hogging it all, corrosion in connections or ground points, batt terminals etc. Points can buildup a layer of skunge pretty quickly too.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 04:00 PM
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Nothing likes to start in minus temps, even me. This is where multi-grade lube oil really shines. It takes considerably more amperage to turn an engine with straight grade oil, and this is where, as Tedster explains, where some of the "starving" comes into play. Your best bet would be to warm the engine with a heat lamp, or ideally with a block heater. I use a couple of the magnetic ones on my equipment overnight if I'm going to use them.

https://www.amazon.com/Zerostart-3400017-Portable-Electric-Transmissions/dp/B0076DUV2Q/ref=asc_df_B0076DUV2Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8625578920581128788&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033458&hvtargid=pla-570566697570&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63195598318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8625578920581128788&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033458&hvtargid=pla-570566697570 https://www.amazon.com/Zerostart-3400017-Portable-Electric-Transmissions/dp/B0076DUV2Q/ref=asc_df_B0076DUV2Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8625578920581128788&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033458&hvtargid=pla-570566697570&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63195598318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8625578920581128788&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033458&hvtargid=pla-570566697570
 
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 05:23 PM
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Yep! Put an old dip stick heater in I had laying around. Let it warm for about 4-5 hours, truck started up. Let her run for 30 minutes or so. Think I will get a magnetic heater.

Thanks guys!

I don’t know why I wanted to get it started. It’s not like I’m taking out for a drive anytime soon. But I am really happy right now!!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 09:31 AM
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You feel better hearing it run.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
Yep! Out an old dip stick heater in I had laying around. Let it warm for about 4-5 hours, truck started up. Let her run for 30 minutes or so. Think I will get a magnetic heater.

thanks guys!

I don’t know why I wanted to get it started. It’s not like I’m taking out for a drive anytime soon. But I am really happy right now!!
it is good for you, therapuetically, to at least start your truck in the middle of winter even if you don't take it out for a drive. Just make sure you let it run until it gets up to temp and let it run for a while.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 12:12 PM
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We often get batteries from Napa or Advance Auto or even Walmart because they're touted as having a high cold cranking amperage and they're inexpensive. But these 8 cylinders are power hogs. Add in some cold weather and you're going to have problems cranking that thing over. Many off-the-shelf batteries at your local auto parts store simply won't cut it. Our family runs Optima Red-Tops in our cars. My wife tends to leave the overhead light on inside her Subaru Forester. Yet even when it's 5 degrees when she gets in the car in the morning to go to work the damn thing starts. I promise you, before that when we were running cheaper batteries, that battery would be dead after an hour.

If you want to see your truck crank crazy fast and give your plugs much needed blue spark, get this Check this one: 800 CCA, and when tested on a meter, it is often higher: https://smile.amazon.com/Optima-Batt...tima+batteries
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 02:04 PM
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Can that be charged with a regular benchtop charger? Or does it take a special charger?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 03:26 PM
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Absolutely. The difference is in the quality of the battery's internals. Nothing special is needed.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2019 | 03:39 PM
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I'm of the opinion if the engine can't be put under load it will never really warm up at an idle, especially in winter, the oil temperature won't anyway. Maybe not a big deal really but there's no benefit to starting an engine in the winter and may just invite condensation or sludge buildup in the crankcase and tends to foul the plugs. Battery tenders are outstanding for keeping batteries charged up and ready to go over the off season.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2019 | 04:01 PM
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You know, I've heard that before about idling and warming up. My truck warmed up very quickly. The needle was past the halfway mark on the temperature gauge. I did have the choke out a bit for a fast idle. Now I understand that is the temp of the water but the water is made hot from the engine temp so isn't the oil warm too?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2019 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by abe
You know, I've heard that before about idling and warming up. My truck warmed up very quickly. The needle was past the halfway mark on the temperature gauge. I did have the choke out a bit for a fast idle. Now I understand that is the temp of the water but the water is made hot from the engine temp so isn't the oil warm too?
Nope. I have a Focus ST which has both water and oil temp gauges. The engine has an integral oil cooler, with radiator water as the cooling medium, which in the winter actually helps heat the oil up. It takes at least 1/2 hour of driving for the oil to get to temperature when ambients are below 50F. The water temp gets to its design point in less than 10 minutes of driving.

I agree with Tedster, starting an engine and running it in the garage is likely to do more damage than good, especially if it's down around 20 - 30 degF, and you're having to choke it to keep it running.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2019 | 05:37 PM
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Oil temperature lags coolant temperature by quite a bit. I think it's probably easy to slip over the line into silliness about all this stuff. But, there's no reason or benefit either to start an engine every few weeks or whatever. Connect the battery to a tender will keep it topped off. It may make sense to run the carburetor dry in the fall with today's gasoline, and use a fuel stabilizer in the tank.

Ted
 
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Old Feb 7, 2019 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Nope. I have a Focus ST which has both water and oil temp gauges. The engine has an integral oil cooler, with radiator water as the cooling medium, which in the winter actually helps heat the oil up. It takes at least 1/2 hour of driving for the oil to get to temperature when ambients are below 50F. The water temp gets to its design point in less than 10 minutes of driving.

I agree with Tedster, starting an engine and running it in the garage is likely to do more damage than good, especially if it's down around 20 - 30 degF, and you're having to choke it to keep it running.
Originally Posted by Tedster9
Oil temperature lags coolant temperature by quite a bit. I think it's probably easy to slip over the line into silliness about all this stuff. But, there's no reason or benefit either to start an engine every few weeks or whatever. Connect the battery to a tender will keep it topped off. It may make sense to run the carburetor dry in the fall with today's gasoline, and use a fuel stabilizer in the tank.
Ted
OK guys. That's good to know. Of course I have stabilizer in my tank with non ethonal gas.
 
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