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Okay, I give up. Can anyone tell me why this hand crank that I found under the seat of my 1949 F1 226 does not match up with the crankshaft bolt on my truck, nor the shop manual? I can get it all the way up to the crankshaft bolt but the bolt looks like it has no provision for the crank. Must be missing something?
The reason I ask, I want to be able to use it to turn the engine while attempting to adjust my valves. Can't seem to get a socket or wrench on the crank bolt and still be able to turn the engine. And yes, I have no desire to attempt to crank over the six with this devise. I already have a model T that I can do that with.
Looking at the picture above, you can see the crank itself has been bent! Can't imagine what caused that, and don't really want to know. Just want to use it as a tool to roll over the engine.
Tom, thanks for the quick reply. That certainly makes sense to me. My Ford 9N and the 26 T both have a similar device. Wondering why the shop manual shows a plain bolt on the shaft? Why give you a crank that is not usable?
Tom, thanks for the quick reply. That certainly makes sense to me. My Ford 9N and the 26 T both have a similar device. Wondering why the shop manual shows a plain bolt on the shaft? Why give you a crank that is not usable?
Hey Bob, now that I look at it again, I think you might be right! No scissors jack found with the truck which would make sense for this handle. And funny, it fits really well into the area with the handle at the right distance.
Now wondering what the original hand crank might of looked like for the F1?
Hey Bob, now that I look at it again, I think you might be right! No scissors jack found with the truck which would make sense for this handle. And funny, it fits really well into the area with the handle at the right distance.
Now wondering what the original hand crank might of looked like for the F1?
....
The reason I ask, I want to be able to use it to turn the engine while attempting to adjust my valves. Can't seem to get a socket or wrench on the crank bolt and still be able to turn the engine...
Why can't you get a socket on the crank bolt, does it have the provision for a hand crank? Even if it does, I would think a deep socket would work. Do you have the plugs out?
i believe that i have the jack and handle (maybe the wrench & others) from my 51 f1.i am not using it ,so if anyone is intrested in it and other parts let me know. bob5740@verizon.net
Ross, yes I have the plugs out. I am finding it difficult to get a socket and wrench on and still be able to turn the engine while taking a look at the valves at the same time. It seems to be easier to turn the engine by pulling on the fan belt and just finding TDC on each cylinder. I am guessing that it is okay to set both valves on each cylinder while on the compression stroke? Or, should I be using exhaust starts to open adjust the intake and intake just closes adjust the exhaust?
Now that I have taken a closer look at the above tool, I am thinking it came from another type of vehicle, or, it is a scissor jack handle. My crank bolt, does not have the usual provision for a hand crank handle. I also see in the shop manual, that they do not show such a bolt that would utilize a hand crank. Seems kind of odd since they provide the hole in the grill and radiator to insert a hand crank. What's up with that?
I've read that the intent was for that hole to be used for a PTO rather than a hand crank.
I've personally never seen an 8BA/8RT engine with the cranking bolt, but I've seen pictures of them. Maybe on export engines? I have never seen a PTO driven off the crank.
Tom, I don't think you can go wrong setting the valves at TDC. It's simply not that critical with the conservative cams used in these engines. If you put pieces of tape every 120 degrees on the crank pulley, it makes it easy to turn the crank to the next cylinder in the firing order without watching the valves.
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