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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 05:06 PM
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Mason33
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cold starting issues

Having cold starting issues. I have a 2003 f250 with the 7.3 I've replaced the batteries, starter, GP’s, GPR, Oil Rotella T6 5w-40 with hot shots stiction additive, fuel filter, Block heater works, I've tested the alternator, use anti-gel fuel additive. The truck only has problems starting after it sits for about 6-8 hours it cranks fast and sputters and sounds like it's going to start then it doesn't. once I get it started (spray of ether) it runs flawlessly other than that it starts right up. There is also smoke while cranking. I've posted about this on here before and I now believe it is a temperature problem. I live in northern Michigan it has been in the single digits and negatives for the past 2 weeks
 
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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 07:44 PM
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Sounds like the glow plugs are not working. You might need to cycle the key a few times and even wait a minute after the "wait to start" light goes out between cycling of the key.

Do you plug your truck in when it is this cold?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 10:49 PM
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I plug my truck in every night. also I've only waited until the WTS light goes off and no longer
 
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mason33
Having cold starting issues. I have a 2003 f250 with the 7.3 I've replaced the batteries, starter, GP’s, GPR, Oil Rotella T6 5w-40 with hot shots stiction additive, fuel filter, Block heater works, I've tested the alternator, use anti-gel fuel additive. The truck only has problems starting after it sits for about 6-8 hours it cranks fast and sputters and sounds like it's going to start then it doesn't. once I get it started (spray of ether) it runs flawlessly other than that it starts right up. There is also smoke while cranking. I've posted about this on here before and I now believe it is a temperature problem. I live in northern Michigan it has been in the single digits and negatives for the past 2 weeks
Originally Posted by Mason33
I plug my truck in every night. also I've only waited until the WTS light goes off and no longer
Mason,
Don’t use ether, the glow plugs will ignite it and you’ll have even more issues. Next, the WTS has absolutely NOTHING TO DO WITH THE GPR …nothing! Think of the WTS light as a reminder to let the electrical system work and fuel pump to prime. The GPR activation is based on the PCM reading the EOT anything under 140ish and the GPR activates. In extreme cold temperatures the GPR will stay activated for up to 2 MINUTES. Compare that to the 10-15 SECONDS the WTS light stay on, with that in mind you’re only giving your GPR and GP’s 15 seconds to heat up 7 cylinders that have an ambient temperature of single digits...it’s not enough time period. I wired a small LED in the cab to the Glow plug feed circuit, I now KNOW when and how long the GPR is active. Tomorrow use a timer, turn the key and let the GPR stay active for a minimum of 90 seconds then start the truck. Report back tomorrow.
‘You can also buy a volt meter that plugs into the power outlet, you should see a voltage drop from 12.8 (new batteries) to 10.9- 11.4 volts if all 8 GP’s are working.



 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 06:08 PM
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I unhooked the GPs before id spray ether also I tested the GPR with a multimeter that's how I know it works. I did, however, wait sometime after turning the key on to start the truck and it started right up it was also 40 degrees I did find out that I only have 3 working GPs on each side.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 08:43 PM
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From: Colorado Springs
Excellent, sounds like you learned some things about your truck. When you replace them ONLY use Motorcraft glow plugs, aftermarket glow plugs will swell and break off in the cylinder.
 
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