Carburetor Jets?
#1
Carburetor Jets?
Have a 351m in a 78 F150. The engine has been rebuilt with a mild cam upgrade and 2v Cleveland nonsmog heads. It has a stock 2 barrel Motorcraft. Under heavy acceleration, from stop or at speed its the same, it will cough and fall flat. Timing is at 10 deg btc. I believe the 2 barrel is too weak for this set up and plan to get a 4 barrel or fuel injection. Just short of that, is there anything i can do to improve this, maybe bigger jets?
#2
Make sure the accelerator pump in the carb is working.
Remove the air cleaner, with the engine off. Peer down the carb throat, quickly open the throttle all the way. You should see two steady streams of fuel shoot into the carb throat as soon as you start to move the throttle. If you don't, you need to figure out why. Bad diaphragm is one cause The accelerator pump diaphragm is easy to change without removing or disassembling the carb. Its on the front. 4 screws retain the cover. Bent, or misadjusted linkage could be another cause.
Remove the air cleaner, with the engine off. Peer down the carb throat, quickly open the throttle all the way. You should see two steady streams of fuel shoot into the carb throat as soon as you start to move the throttle. If you don't, you need to figure out why. Bad diaphragm is one cause The accelerator pump diaphragm is easy to change without removing or disassembling the carb. Its on the front. 4 screws retain the cover. Bent, or misadjusted linkage could be another cause.
#5
What size Venturi? It's stamped on the side of the fuel bowl driver side in a "clock", it will be something like 1.08 or 1.12. Post what it is.
You can make any of the Motorcraft carbs work OK, some better than others. Download the Ford carburetor manual and make sure that the setup is right every step of the way. The thing everybody seems to miss, is the fuel height in the bowl. The float height may need adjustment up or down after installation on the engine itself. If it's too high it will flood, if it's too low it will be starved for fuel.
What size jets are in it now? What # power valve? Trust me, you can make it work fine, just need to get it dialed in.
You can make any of the Motorcraft carbs work OK, some better than others. Download the Ford carburetor manual and make sure that the setup is right every step of the way. The thing everybody seems to miss, is the fuel height in the bowl. The float height may need adjustment up or down after installation on the engine itself. If it's too high it will flood, if it's too low it will be starved for fuel.
What size jets are in it now? What # power valve? Trust me, you can make it work fine, just need to get it dialed in.
#6
#7
I believe a 1.21" Motorcraft is plenty of carburetor, but any carb needs to be setup right. For engine tuning a mechanic's vacuum gauge is real slick. Everything has to be just right before a carburetor will respond well to adjustment. By that I mean good, hot spark, correct ignition timing, smooth mechanical distributor advance + vacuum advance. Vacuum leaks will cause lots of problems.
The carburetor far too often gets blamed when something else is the problem. For a tune-up to remain satisfactory everything has to be checked and adjusted. Compression test. On these old trucks, the crankshaft damper weights tend to slip and bugger the timing marks. Is your 10° really 10°? That's why I like vacuum gauges. There's a million things that we can't see from here that only you can judge.
If a stock or stockish engine pulls 18" to 20" of idle vacuum at sea level everything mechanical is setup about right and in good condition. I doubt the carb Jets that are installed right now are too small, but it wouldn't hurt to check. They aren't included in rebuild kits, btw. Vacuum gauge is like a poor man's Sun machine, they show a lot of information if the user knows what to look for, and they will also measure fuel pump output pressure, something else that should be checked before carb tuning.
The carburetor far too often gets blamed when something else is the problem. For a tune-up to remain satisfactory everything has to be checked and adjusted. Compression test. On these old trucks, the crankshaft damper weights tend to slip and bugger the timing marks. Is your 10° really 10°? That's why I like vacuum gauges. There's a million things that we can't see from here that only you can judge.
If a stock or stockish engine pulls 18" to 20" of idle vacuum at sea level everything mechanical is setup about right and in good condition. I doubt the carb Jets that are installed right now are too small, but it wouldn't hurt to check. They aren't included in rebuild kits, btw. Vacuum gauge is like a poor man's Sun machine, they show a lot of information if the user knows what to look for, and they will also measure fuel pump output pressure, something else that should be checked before carb tuning.
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#8
Sorry, it took so long. The weather in the NW has not been ideal for working outside.
I have 15 in. of vacuum at idle.
The engine is brand new with only 3300 miles on it. It has a mild Hi Engery Comp Cam and 2v Cleveland non smog heads. Other than that it is mostly stock.
It has a new electric fuel pump but it may be mounted too high. I plan on remounting it when the weather breaks. It also has a new stock distributor.
How would i check fuel level after it is installed on the truck? There is no window.
The timing should b accurate.
I have 15 in. of vacuum at idle.
The engine is brand new with only 3300 miles on it. It has a mild Hi Engery Comp Cam and 2v Cleveland non smog heads. Other than that it is mostly stock.
It has a new electric fuel pump but it may be mounted too high. I plan on remounting it when the weather breaks. It also has a new stock distributor.
How would i check fuel level after it is installed on the truck? There is no window.
The timing should b accurate.
#9
Electric fuel pumps work far better pushing fuel versus pulling it through a line. Mech fuel pump is better at pulling.
May have to pop that carb off and open up to set a dry float level.
If there is any wetness at front around area of accel pump push rod/lever/housing, put a new diaphragm in it.
Many aftermarket cam grinds will cause lower vacuum gage readings at idle.
May have to pop that carb off and open up to set a dry float level.
If there is any wetness at front around area of accel pump push rod/lever/housing, put a new diaphragm in it.
Many aftermarket cam grinds will cause lower vacuum gage readings at idle.
#11
First thing though, verify that the fuel pump pressure output is not excessive, as this in turn will interfere with achieving the correct fuel height, this is a big problem with aftermarket fuel pumps sold today. It is also a fire hazard as eventually the needle and seat will be unable to prevent flooding. 5 psi is plenty. Your vacuum gauge also measures fuel pump pressure output. No need to start the engine, just crank the engine over for several seconds.
To check the fuel bowl height let the truck idle for a few minutes on level ground. Shut the motor off, and pull the air horn and measure the fuel height from the machined surface at the top of the bowl down to the surface of the fuel itself. Adjust the float height up or down as required to achieve a fuel height in the bowl that is equal to the dimension measured with a US quarter. This is 29/32" or near enough. The specific "wet float" height varies slightly by application but this should work very fine as the baseline for now. I like to remove the float entirely when bending the float tab. Don't have to do it this way, but the idea anyway is to avoid excessive downward pressure of the viton needle tip against the seat. For some reason some people got it in their head that the float must only be adjusted while the engine is idling. This is not the case!
If you're careful and keep a fire extinguisher nearby the engine can be idled slowly with carburetor air horn removed and check the fuel height in operation. Don't do this inside the garage, don't rev the engine. What you're looking for is that the fuel height maintains the correct level in the bowl. Be safe.
Wheeling with a Carb
#12
Carb issues
A stumble on acceleration means accelerator pump setting is wrong. You don't fix that with jets.
If your truck sputters and coughs on level ground at highway speeds it is lean and needs more jet, or you have a vacuum leak.
Believe it or not, you can have too much accelerator pump shot. Have a friend drive and follow closely. Have him step on the gas and see what happens. If there is a big puff of black smoke it needs less accelerator pump.
I am very happy with my Edelbrock Performer and Holley 570 Street Avenger on my '77 400 truck.
R.
If your truck sputters and coughs on level ground at highway speeds it is lean and needs more jet, or you have a vacuum leak.
Believe it or not, you can have too much accelerator pump shot. Have a friend drive and follow closely. Have him step on the gas and see what happens. If there is a big puff of black smoke it needs less accelerator pump.
I am very happy with my Edelbrock Performer and Holley 570 Street Avenger on my '77 400 truck.
R.
#13
No black smoke. Accelerator pump was replaced with the rebuild.
Havnt checked fuel pump output or pressure yet.
New issue, since it has been colder than usual here, down in the 20s at night and 30s during the day, it is now stumbling on start up. It sounds like one cylinder is flooded or something like its not hitting on all 8. Runs really rough and chugs if i try to give it gas until it is warmed up, then it runs fine. Just changed the spark plugs and it is a little better but still an issue. Choke and thermostat are properly adjusted.
Havnt checked fuel pump output or pressure yet.
New issue, since it has been colder than usual here, down in the 20s at night and 30s during the day, it is now stumbling on start up. It sounds like one cylinder is flooded or something like its not hitting on all 8. Runs really rough and chugs if i try to give it gas until it is warmed up, then it runs fine. Just changed the spark plugs and it is a little better but still an issue. Choke and thermostat are properly adjusted.
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