When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got to looking at my old unison ring from my previous turbo rebuild and got to wondering.. while i couldnt see any "visible" wear in the ring at the time i replaced it anyways since everyone said to just do it anyways while i had it apart... so i did... but happened to find it the other day and while looking at it i still couldnt see any visible deformations.. theres still some spots you could see where the vanes and the actuator pole had been rubbing that stayed shiny clean... but didnt look worn... after putting a micrometer/caliper (whatever yall want to call them now) to it, I found there were some spots that were wider than others and narrower in others.. with my turbos vanes seeming to be stuck again and going to have to pull it... I started wondering if i could possibly clean it up and reuse it again if the one thats in there is worn out... but looking around the internet i couldnt seem to find an answer to my minds question posted anywhere..
Does anyone know what the actual specs for the ring should be?? That way we could compare a "worn" ring to like a known good one?? For instance the actuator hole diameters and lengths... what the maximum thickness or thinness the ring should be? diameter and length of the holes the vanes ride in?? width of the center hole?? stuff like that would really help us know if the ring would be reusable...
just in case my explanation wasnt clear for what i was looking for... i found a picture of a new one and used Paint to try and illustrate what i was referring to... hope it helps... maybe someone working at a parts counter or auto tech that plays with these things frequently can take some measurements of a new one?? you would think theses things have to follow some kind of spec to know whats good or bad... all the pictures of bad ones i found always had the actuator hole rounded out but seen post after post of people talking about the vane guides getting gummed up or rust build up to trap the vanes in place in effect causing the rings to get stuck as well...
Note: sorry for the tiny words on the picture... in Paint they looked a lot bigger and easier to read...
My gut is saying it would be best for someone with a new Garrett turbo or replacement ring should take the measurements. If it's an aftermarket source its probably reverse engineered, machined on equipment with no OE tolerance spec.
well when i said Parts Counter person i was "thinking" along the lines of someone at like a ford dealership or one of the many vendors here that sell or even work with the Ford replacements like Riffraff, XDP, SuperDutyService... ect ect... someone that would readily have access to a new one... but my minds thinking and what i typed didnt make that clear enough i guess... dont think ive seen any vendor reps from Garrett Advancing Motion/Garrett Motion (however they want to be called) on here.. but cant say that for sure... but never know they may be around here...
ironically i thought if anyone here would have known it would have been you or Bismic... since you 2 are all over the tech threads with mondo knowledge
well only took them 3 months to get back to me... unfortunately they stated that information is "proprietary" (classified).. so i couldnt get the specs for what was considered good or bad for their specs..
but theres my other thread i made with the micing of the new and old ones..
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
