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Reposted from 335 Series - 1980 F350 dually, 700, C6, all stock. Just rebuilt/cleaned the carb. Which vacuum lines can I remove to clean up the bay some? Do I need the fast idle(?) crap up by throttle cable? Currently I do not have the choke hooked up-heat tubes were rotted out. I live near Seattle so extreme cold isn't a concern. I set the timing to 10 BTDC and have driven it some but not enough to be sure on any detonation issues. Seems like there is a vacuum leak somewhere and rather than replacing 20' of line I would like to just eliminate some of it. Do I need the vacuum tree/switch on the front of the manifold or can I just plumb the dist advance directly off carb? I don't remember using this set up on my 302, 351W, or IH 266 but those were years ago. Is the EGR stuff doing anything needed/good?
The engine will likely be getting a rebuild in the not to distant future w/ alum intake, carb, headers, cam, head work. Nothing too radical but not stock either. Thanks
Even if you remove all of the smog components you should hook up the choke. It allows your truck to start easily in cold weather. If the hot air choke stove is rotted out you can usually get an electric choke conversion.
Reposted from 335 Series - 1980 F350 dually, 700, C6, all stock. Just rebuilt/cleaned the carb. Which vacuum lines can I remove to clean up the bay some? Do I need the fast idle(?) crap up by throttle cable? Currently I do not have the choke hooked up-heat tubes were rotted out. I live near Seattle so extreme cold isn't a concern. I set the timing to 10 BTDC and have driven it some but not enough to be sure on any detonation issues. Seems like there is a vacuum leak somewhere and rather than replacing 20' of line I would like to just eliminate some of it. Do I need the vacuum tree/switch on the front of the manifold or can I just plumb the dist advance directly off carb? I don't remember using this set up on my 302, 351W, or IH 266 but those were years ago. Is the EGR stuff doing anything needed/good?
The engine will likely be getting a rebuild in the not to distant future w/ alum intake, carb, headers, cam, head work. Nothing too radical but not stock either. Thanks
If it is still there post a pic of the emissions sticker (vacuum line routing)
I'm not 100% on the carb vacuum. My dizzy has a line run off Intake manifold vacuum with a check valve in between, and a line hooked into the spark port on the carb. Personally I'd say to at least keep the EGR and the carbon can from the emissions. The EGR is factored into the engine tuning on the computer side, it affects horsepower and fuel economy. The carbon can AT THE MINIMUM vents the tank. If you cap all the lines run to it, you'll need a vented gas cap(allows air in and out of tank, not just in). I've seen threads from different forums where guys put in the can on trucks that didn't originally have it just to cut down on the gas smell. If your choke stove is rotted away, then you're going to have a massive vac leak on the intake side of the climatic choke system, bare minimum you'll have to cap that. Buuuuut, and I'm assuming here, since my truck is and '82 which seems to be an odd year. You're truck has a climatic choke with the electric choke. So choke is temperature controlled, with electric assist. As far as I know the electric portion just turns the choke off. Regulator I guess. Which means it doesn't do **** without the choke stoves. Put the choke stoves back and it will do wonders.
Since we are this involved, post pics of your engine bay, I want to see the spaghetti that upsets you so much. Must be immaculate if vac lines are offending you....
Below is highlighted what you need/should keep and re routing Everything in red you must keep. Blue you should keep. The rest can go.
This will delete the EGR (emissions) AIR or thermatic/smog pump (emissions) And the fast idle/timing advance for a hot engine (over 210°F)
If you need any of the above I can add it back in.
There is no computer on your truck and the elimination of the EGR will result in more power and better fuel mileage.
A pic of under hood And I can point out the rest of the AIR /thermatic system components that can be removed.
I have no idea if you truck has cats (unlikely) but if you do they will need to be removed after these mods.
This will essentially give you a pre-emissions set up.
I'm not 100% on the carb vacuum. My dizzy has a line run off Intake manifold vacuum with a check valve in between, and a line hooked into the spark port on the carb. Personally I'd say to at least keep the EGR and the carbon can from the emissions. The EGR is factored into the engine tuning on the computer side, it affects horsepower and fuel economy. The carbon can AT THE MINIMUM vents the tank. If you cap all the lines run to it, you'll need a vented gas cap(allows air in and out of tank, not just in). I've seen threads from different forums where guys put in the can on trucks that didn't originally have it just to cut down on the gas smell. If your choke stove is rotted away, then you're going to have a massive vac leak on the intake side of the climatic choke system, bare minimum you'll have to cap that. Buuuuut, and I'm assuming here, since my truck is and '82 which seems to be an odd year. You're truck has a climatic choke with the electric choke. So choke is temperature controlled, with electric assist. As far as I know the electric portion just turns the choke off. Regulator I guess. Which means it doesn't do **** without the choke stoves. Put the choke stoves back and it will do wonders.
Since we are this involved, post pics of your engine bay, I want to see the spaghetti that upsets you so much. Must be immaculate if vac lines are offending you....
-Clifton
Far from immaculate, just don't want to replace a bunch of 39 year old vacuum lines if I don't have to. Choke is heat only, no electric. Choke doesn't concern me, if needed I will get it hooked up again.
Below is highlighted what you need/should keep and re routing Everything in red you must keep. Blue you should keep. The rest can go.
This will delete the EGR (emissions) AIR or thermatic/smog pump (emissions) And the fast idle/timing advance for a hot engine (over 210°F)
If you need any of the above I can add it back in.
There is no computer on your truck and the elimination of the EGR will result in more power and better fuel mileage.
A pic of under hood And I can point out the rest of the AIR /thermatic system components that can be removed.
I have no idea if you truck has cats (unlikely) but if you do they will need to be removed after these mods.
This will essentially give you a pre-emissions set up.
Yes, no cat and no air pump. Thanks for your help. The blue is the fast idle/carb stuff, correct?
Yes, no cat and no air pump. Thanks for your help. The blue is the fast idle/carb stuff, correct?
Yes the blue is the throttle kicker. Now that may be installed if you have A/C or an air compressor etc. this will insure that the engine does not stall at idle when either of these are on. It has nothing to do with cold fast idle that is in the carb's choke. I would recommend leaving it on.
And your emissions sticker is showing an AIR BPV (air by pass valve) and these are only fitted when a smog pump is used as it is the by pass valve for the smog pump. So maybe yours was previously removed.
Below is highlighted what you need/should keep and re routing Everything in red you must keep. Blue you should keep. The rest can go.
This will delete the EGR (emissions) AIR or thermatic/smog pump (emissions) And the fast idle/timing advance for a hot engine (over 210°F)
If you need any of the above I can add it back in.
There is no computer on your truck and the elimination of the EGR will result in more power and better fuel mileage.
A pic of under hood And I can point out the rest of the AIR /thermatic system components that can be removed.
I have no idea if you truck has cats (unlikely) but if you do they will need to be removed after these mods.
This will essentially give you a pre-emissions set up.
Yes the blue is the throttle kicker. Now that may be installed if you have A/C or an air compressor etc. this will insure that the engine does not stall at idle when either of these are on. It has nothing to do with cold fast idle that is in the carb's choke. I would recommend leaving it on.
And your emissions sticker is showing an AIR BPV (air by pass valve) and these are only fitted when a smog pump is used as it is the by pass valve for the smog pump. So maybe yours was previously removed.
I double checked tonight, no air pump or a/c. Just power steering and alternator for belt driven accessories.
A couple more questions on this. I have dist hooked to ported vacuum on choke side of carb. There is constant vacuum coming off the rear of the carb. What source do I use for the transmission connection?
A couple more questions on this. I have dist hooked to ported vacuum on choke side of carb. There is constant vacuum coming off the rear of the carb. What source do I use for the transmission connection?
Manifold vacuum. I think most setups have a plastic splitter attached to the firewall just under the hood. One line runs to manifold vacuum, one to the vacuum reservoir and heat/air controls and the third goes to the transmission.
01-29-2019, 01:08 PM
