Code P0175 for the 3rd time
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From: East Tennessee
Code P0175 for the 3rd time
My "service engine light" is currently on and has a code of P0175, which essentially means it is running rich. I've had my 2016 F-150, 2.7 Eco engine, in to the dealership 2 times previously for this same issue. They replaced the fuel purge valve both times and the problem was temporarily fixed. Obviously something else must be causing it to go bad.
The problem seems to appear every 3-4 months. I do drive my truck a short distance to work and am wondering if that is causing this issue since I don't get it to operating temperature for too long. Still, I should be able to do that without any issues. I normally use 87 octane 100% gas and at times have used 87 octane 10% ethanol. I am wondering if mixing it up like that could cause this. But again, I should be able to do that.. Any thoughts? Thanks
The problem seems to appear every 3-4 months. I do drive my truck a short distance to work and am wondering if that is causing this issue since I don't get it to operating temperature for too long. Still, I should be able to do that without any issues. I normally use 87 octane 100% gas and at times have used 87 octane 10% ethanol. I am wondering if mixing it up like that could cause this. But again, I should be able to do that.. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Senior User
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From: East Tennessee
No, not at all. I've looked online and there could be several things I guess that could cause this. The Mass Air Flow Sensor or the Manifold Pressure sensor among other things. I am going to do my homework so the dealership doesn't just replace the purge valve and that is it.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2015
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From: Mts. S. of San Francisco
Either a sensor (as you've already seen), or else an actuator malfunctioning. Anything that results in too little air or too much fuel. I might be inclined to look at the throttle actuator, as there are numerous fuel injectors that would have to be malfunctioning,
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From: East Tennessee
I have 14K miles on the truck, have changed the oil twice and getting ready to change it again, changed air filter twice. I am OCD and don't mess around with preventive maintenance. Actually, after I wrote this, I decided to drive the long way to work so my engine could get to operating temperature and I be dang if the check engine light went off. I am going to see if it is still showing the 0175 code after work today. My gas mileage has been sucking too. I can't get it in to the dealership until next week on Wednesday. I may look at the sensors this weekend just to see if they are dirty. I do have a catch can I have had since 2016. The dealership has no problem with that and hasn't played that game "well, this could be causing issues, we can't do warranty work on it".
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Fountain Valley
A catch can helps remove oil vapors from the intake system. Unless Ford has calculated this oil vapor into the combustion cycle and since part of it is now gone causing your engine to run rich its must be something else. My 18 has 11K miles and the catch can has been on the entire time and I've no check engine lights. My wife's 2015 Honda has one too and is used on short runs (9600 miles in 3 years) and no lights either....
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My "service engine light" is currently on and has a code of P0175, which essentially means it is running rich. I've had my 2016 F-150, 2.7 Eco engine, in to the dealership 2 times previously for this same issue. They replaced the fuel purge valve both times and the problem was temporarily fixed. Obviously something else must be causing it to go bad.
How does a purge valve cause bank #2 to run rich?
(I could understand if the purge valve was not sealing every time AND the canister was full of fuel from topping off the tank, but, OP says the tank is not overfilled.)
So what is the dealer’s explanation for replacing the purge valve?
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From: East Tennessee
They ran tests each time and discovered the Purge Valve was stuck open both times. They replaced it and I have no other problems for several months. I am beginning to think that the engine not getting to operating temperature each morning that I go to work is causing the reading. I know that the fuel trim is different when the engine is cold as opposed to hot. It probably isn't a coincidence that I drove it the long way to work the last few days and the check engine light went off. I am going to do a hands on test this weekend to see if it is in fact stuck open.
Laughing Gas
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From: Fountain Valley
I follow that practice also. My 5.0 will stay at 7-800 RPM until all the perameters for low idle are met and it then goes to 525. I now start it while I'm in the house now also. That is something I would have never done in the past but do since I'm retired and no longer have the longer drive to work.
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